NDMstang65

90 grand up front and we'll start talking $90,000!!!!! Is that per sub!?!? That's for you to put down to be serious...way too many tire kickers in this world. If you have the money..i'll make the time.

..I've got a BTL in my home theater... It definitely doesn't sound bad

What about hooking up just 1 coil? Do me a favor and throw a metal screw or something steel on the magnet..let me know what it does.

there is no warrenty available for the BTL. There is a waiting period for them right now... Then why did I get a warranty slip with mine? That's for us to know who you are when you blow it and send it in. There is no warranty on the BTL's...only for manufacturing defect...which..really...that's all thats on the other subs anyhow. Speakers don't blow themselves, some degree of stupidity has to insue. To the OP..if this is your first stereo..I'd highly suggest into looking into something smaller first. You are trying to hop into a top fuel funny car..and you just got your regular drivers license and you are expecting to be able to drive the fuel car... There's a learning curve that goes with this stuff, and as much as I hate to say it...people see stuff on Youtube and think "Hell he put 6000 watts to his BTL's I can do it too!"..and they turn them inside out and burn them up 2 days later.

90 grand up front and we'll start talking

MTA believe Scott emailed you back yesterday.

Yeah, just give it a day or two, they'll get back to you man. Dont be so sure. Ive been waiting for months for an email back from the sales email and from nick. The service at Fi isn't what it used to be. Im an international buyer but that doesn't mean I cant have a reply... Im not angry, just disappointed that I cant get the product I want. All that Hype around the world for this product and I cant be a part of it... .... Did you e-mail them again? It is possible they could have missed it you know.. Yes ive emailed them 3 times. Twice on one email address once on another Not sure how that happened? If you don't hear something from me then odds are it's stuck in a spam folder..somewhere...or I didn't get it.

22 isn't ready..when it is..everybody will know. If you want something bigger..if you have the money, i'll make the time. But my time is very, very, very valuable.

You definitely got what you ordered...they are BP SSD's. I'm not sure if you got the flatwind coil or not in them...If the coil seems a darker color then they are copper. If they are a lighter yellowish color and appear to be flat winds then they are an aluminum flatwind coil.. Let us know how you like them!

Those ticks on the amplifiers are never right...go read JL audio's manual on the 1000/1's. They even say that what is printed on the amplifiers isn't what the pots are really set at. Setting the subsonic filter on those amps is much of a crap shoot..if the sub starts unloading then turn the subsonic filter up higher..

The answer to your question is..I can't tell you which one will be louder. I will tell you which one will be louder the day that you give me the winning lottery numbers to every single state lottery in the United States....point is that's a crap shoot. In acoustics nothing is constant...you may have a wicked impedance rise and be down 3dB with the SMD's...but have 1/3 of the power that you had to the BTL's. So in all reality it is..louder? You can't drop a top fuel drag motor into a Hyundai and expect it to hook the stock p185 tires the same as the stock motor in the Hyundai did...can you? So that means that things have to change..right? It takes 6 times as much time on the CNC to do 1 motor then it does a BTL. (You cannot run low carbon gummy steel fast on a CNC, it will burn carbide bits up like they are nothing. You also have 3 times as much material there to run through) 1 pole takes 26 minutes to run in the CNC alone...that's not a finished part either..that's just 1 piece unfinished. It takes 3 times as much time to prepare all of the parts for assembly. The SMD motor assembly has FOUR drill presses of its own...that is only used for the SMD's...nothing else. Then you have to cut all of the aluminum stock and machine that down to the sizes that it needs to be...then you have to drill and tap all of the holes... It takes an average of an hour to assemble the motor assembly itself, it also then takes about an hour to assemble the soft part assembly...and we're not even getting into allocating the tooling die cost of the parts that we tooled for it..and the depreciation of it over time. Time is money, you have to pay somebody to work..because nobody works for free. If you want something that is assembled by a robot then go for it..i'll put what we build up against it all day every day. We don't run on "loans"..many business do, and is very risky and is why many businesses are failing now. So you can throw that argument out as to why a price should drop because we have nothing to 'pay off'. We purchase our raw materials..prices are not going to drop on anything. As the price of steel goes up it directly effects what we buy as raw materials...you'll see it everywhere in due time. Regardless, what you do not understand is how time consuming the process is to build those things. I can build a 3 stack motored sub in about 30 minutes from raw parts to compete finished product... The pole piece of an SMD is barely done running on the CNC by the time i'm done with a 3 stack 'normal' motored sub. Get it? It's the difference in actually doing something..versus ordering pre-assembled motors from overseas and dropping shoddy soft parts in them. If you want a Hyundai..then buy a Hyundai. The difference in this is that is equivalent in time of a Ferrari to build..as they build every single part..by hand..in Italy. No, before you go there I'm not claiming that we build every single part in house either...regardless i'm trying to make you see that this takes a lot of TIME to build. Which when you go to order a Ferrari is why it takes you a year to get one from the day that you order it ( if memory serves me correctly from reading years ago ) Time is money...if you want to play..then you gotta pay.

An SMD couldn't be more different than a BTL or ANY other sub that is on the market. You have NOOOOOOOOOOOO idea how much time it takes to build one of those things...you can build almost 10 BTL's in the amount of time it takes to do one of those subs...and for what it is it is and how much time and effort that has went into developing it...it is very cheap. They will never get cheaper, nor will anything ever get cheaper as raw materials cost keeps going up and up and up. Compared to the other "manufacturers" that "build" products in the US we are the most cost effective..without a doubt. Mmats is getting almost 1200 bucks for a Juggernaut...and I'd put a Mayhem up against it all day every day no problem. If you are looking for something that is truly unique..and nobody else can do...then the SMD is the route to go. It's simply a sick woofer that is truly machined and built by hand..in Las Vegas.

Send it in..it's not going to fix itself. You can go on the website and order a recone and go ahead and pay for the return shipping to you. It is under the recones section of the website. It's not going to be a warranty issue regardless as it is definitely classified under abuse...the warranty only covers manufacturing defect...which is what all warranty's cover. If you drive your brand new car into a wall at 70mph I don't think the dealership is going to give you a brand new car when you get that one towed in Send it in once you order the recone off of the website and select "Send in sub"..it will charge you for the return shipping and everything is automated that way. Fi Car Audio - Recones 5450 Cameron Street #102 Las Vegas, Nv 89118 When we get it in we'll get it reconed and back out to you, but you must change how you set everything up..otherwise you'll be right back here again with the same story.

...which is why we won't make a BTL 10...because the cone geometry sucks and it's just..dumb..

Under control

It's easiest to just take the boot off..its just for looks anyhow. The cutout diameter is nearly the same as the magnet diameter (11.25")

You don't need 8 gauge...use 12awg, it's more then big enough. You do understand that you are running AC voltage and current out of your amplifier right? Like..the same stuff that is in your house? You need bigger wire for DC (input)..not output.. Use 12awg, follow this video.

Got the SSD's installed today. Not a HUGE difference over the type r's but they do hit harder. I still need to do some tweeking on my amp. Seems as though the subs are bottoming out. Gain is only about 1/4 turn up on the amp. But still I would say it hits harder than the type r's and the JL's at this point. It took about 10 days total to recieve the subs once I ordered. They would have been here a few day sooner but I noticed on the tracking that they got held up in Cali for some reason. I also thought that was weird, they went from NV to CA then to TX??? Oh well, no complaits here, these subs ROCK!! SSD's are a MUCH better sub then a type r..by a long shot..i've had them lol. What are your box specs and tuning? You should not have any issues with bottoming out or anything with them..

Honestly..a High QTS ssd will do whatever you need to do with 500 watts...

No Q's have copper coils, they are all aluminum..always have been and always will be. You can send them in and a partial BP could be added..but it won't be the full "BP"

Click that button when it pops up and it works fine...don't know why it throws that..but it works. So until we can get the web guy to work on it..that's what the problem is. Sorry about that. Thanks!

You should have a tracking number emailed to the email that you provided when you placed the order. We didn't get magnets in until recently and are pretty much caught up with all of the BTL orders...we're up through the 15th or so on orders including the new SSD's... Did you not get a tracking number or anything? I need more information to help you..

He'll burn himself if he touches it when it's moving. We touch coils all the time..hence a hand built in the USA product... Don't touch the cone or moving assembly when it is moving though.

But the new Q has a toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooon of new options

Don't do trade ins...sorry. Regardless, you set your gain with a multimeter...which is absolutely one of the dumbest things you can do. (No offense of course) It can easily be fixed with a recone..but if you slap it right back in the box with the amp set like it is then you'll be right back here again. The problem is too much volume knob, 'super bass' eq on the headunit, 'bass boost' on the amplifier...and your gain was too high trying to make the amplifier make power that it cannot make.