NDMstang65

I suggest getting a High Qts one if you plan on sealing the subs...thats sort of the whole point of having that options

Whatever the recone price is plus return shipping back to you... Typically takes 3-5 business days to do a recone and we generally do recones for subs that are sent in 1 day per week...so it just depends on how it falls as to when we'll do it. Again..we just got it Friday, relax. Business days are Monday-Friday. 9-5pst

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Last email I've ever got from you was 2/2/2009 about xxx recones. In the email that I got from you about the BTL recone on 5/7 was about a 2 stack..on here you say it's a 3 stack...so which is it? You cannot have a Hixmax coil with the 2 stack motor, you have to use a flatwind. If you have a 3 stack motor then you can use a Hixmax coil.. Thanks! Nick

Only because of mass...but you can't have a nearly 3" long copper coil.. You'd have 400 grams of mass in the coil alone ..and you would only play from 20-40Hz at most because it'd also be an inductance monster.. There's no issues with the Q's having aluminum coils..they've always had aluminum coils..there is no issues with the frequency response or anything on them. If you want a super low end monster simply build a ported enclosure and tune it to 22-25Hz...but take note that you won't have anything for response past 50Hz if you do that.

1) Aluminum coil 2) That option will help keep things a little cooler.. 3) FS has nothing to do with frequency response on a subwoofer...it's just the soft part arrangements natural resonance in a free air environment.

not yanking it below tuning, on tones i got the sub to its max on excursion wise... so im not sure if thats a bad thing for a burp? i have the subsonic set with my oscope to 32 hz, box tuning is 34 hz. any tips on getting the excursion level down while still maintaining the same decibel number? also im competing in a division that clamps the amp, so playing the note closest to the box tuning will show less power actually being thrown at the sub? Thanks guys Then that isn't where your box is tuned to... At tuning frequency that should be where your excursion is the absolute least and your impedance is highest. it is the absolute least and it where my score is the highest as well: im pretty sure its tuned to 34 hz... and i think its getting used to the power and stuff now, causer the cone gets very little warm compared to the first day i put the 3000 in. id like to think that because the sub was on only 1000wrms for about a month it got used ot it and then when it hrew some power at it it was like: "holy shit what is this!!!" then its like "oh thats not so bad..." lol. but you guys make great subs thats for sure, just dont want to blow it.. Warm isn't an issue..if you smell coil then that's an issue. The dustcap is going to feel warm because that is right above where the coil is and what is actually pumping the air forcing it down around and out of the holes in the baskets... You never 'peak' at your tuning frequency...you 'peak' generally higher then what you are tuned to (for the most part, i have had scenarios where random things would happen and it would not be true) generally you peak 3-8Hz above the actual tuning frequency of the enclosure, unless you have something weird going on with the car that it only likes 'this' note regardless of what you put in it and how you tune it... I also said absolute highest impedance ..it's where power is least, cone movement is least and more heat builds up in the coil because it is not moving resulting in the impedance being the highest point...lowest is going to be where it moves the most, the coil cools the most and is the closest to the DCR (generally)...and it will be on the bottom side of the tuning point as well (sloping on the left side of the curve vs. tuning frequency) You have to map all of this out with voltage / current meters and plot a curve in excel..then you figure out impedance vs. frequency and there ya go..

Power recommendations do not change... The Q is still a 1000 watt sub...just because you have cooling doesn't give you a free ticket to throw the amp full bore into it when you have a 1500 watt amp that's really only capable of making 1000 watts of 'clean' reliable power... It's all about the install, users habits..and if you like to turn knobs or not If you abuse it..they will break. If you don't..then they wont Hope this helps!

It's the information that you get that is a sticker stuck on the outside of the box that says KEEP YOUR PACKAGING! and either a green/blue/white paper that tells you all about subsonic filters...and posted all over the internet in in the "MY SPEAKER BROKE YALL SUCK" type threads ..when it's never any fault of the sub..always roots back to no subsonic filter and/or too much gain and/or having a stock charging system and trying to run 10kw off of it because they saw a video on the internet and they can do it too... It's just like buying a brand new car and setting the cruise control on...and aiming for a bridge going down the interstate and driving the car right into the wall. Speakers are stupid...they do exactly what you tell them to do in the environment in which you place them in ...very much like the car that you drove into the wall They don't commit suicide just because it felt like it lol. Hope this helps

Word to the wise..speakers are no different then an engine and are very mechanical... You can have a "racing engine" and get all of the stuff that is "amazing" for it, rods, pistons, gaskets, arp studs etc etc etc...and then slam diesel fuel in it or kerosene fuel..fire it up because hey it's fuel it'l burn and take off down the road..you make it about 1/4 of a mile before the engine leans out and locks up. Power doesn't come out of thin air..you can't expect to have BTL's a stock alternator...and a battery..and a 24awg ground wire because the amp "turns on" with that... Hope you figured out what you did wrong before you caused damage to the speaker...otherwise that's going to be an expensive 'oops' of getting entirely too excited and trying to run a marathon before even knowing how to walk

Web guy got a few new shirts and the hats up...he's working on the beanies and a few other things as well. Got a long sleeve shirt too

not yanking it below tuning, on tones i got the sub to its max on excursion wise... so im not sure if thats a bad thing for a burp? i have the subsonic set with my oscope to 32 hz, box tuning is 34 hz. any tips on getting the excursion level down while still maintaining the same decibel number? also im competing in a division that clamps the amp, so playing the note closest to the box tuning will show less power actually being thrown at the sub? Thanks guys Then that isn't where your box is tuned to... At tuning frequency that should be where your excursion is the absolute least and your impedance is highest.

Wrong... Because once you play below the resonant tuning frequency of the tuning of the port the port is nothing but a gaping hole in the enclosure...causing the sub to have full power in a "Free Air" environment. The SSF with a steeper 18db/octave slope rolls things off faster and helps keeping this from happening. 1000 watts free air is more then enough to kill a BTL...it has enough coil in it to sling the parts completely out of the gap. Box is too big, Amp subsonic filter with a very shallow (12db/octave) slope does not roll things off fast enough...and that's what happens. The sub does exactly what you tell it to do and it commits suicide. Box is too big, subsonic filter is not adjustable... Like I said, you can fix it with a recone...if you do not get a different amp or an adjustable subsonic filter in line it is just like driving your brand new car into a wall. You are going to do it again and be right back here with the same problems forking out money that you shouldn't have had to fork out in the first place. I don't want speakers to break...the last thing I want is a returned product, I never want to see them again once they leave the shipping dock. But things like this happen if it isn't set up right. -Nick

Couple issues here...1) box is too big, stay within the guidelines that we say to stay within...2) Subsonic filter on that amplifier if you turned it on will still cause you issues unless your box is tuned to 27Hz. The subsonic filter if it is on is set at 25Hz...at 12dB/octave. Which is completely useless...you must have an amp that has an adjustable subsonic filter that is set 2-3Hz below the port tuning frequency..otherwise that's what happens. Boils down to over excursion, the surround snaps and the spiders pop like potato chips. It's like taking a brand new car off of the dealership lot..hopping on the interstate with the cruise control on and driving it straight into a wall...the dealership isn't going to warranty it because you drove it into the wall . Speakers are stupid, they do exactly what you tell them to do. You can fix it with a recone..but if you don't get an external adjustable subsonic filter or a different amplifier you'll do it again in a couple weeks time. I've seen it happen many times..and it's always the exact same issue , you also need to shrink your box as well. I've ran in excess of 2000 watts per sub with music and never had an issue...this goes to show if you do not have things set up properly you will have nothing but problems. Hope this helps.

It will loosen up..but if you are yanking it below tuning (those dials on the subsonic filters are never right) then it's going to loosen up more then normal.. 3kw is a lot of power regardless

You can't see clipping with a DMM. winnerrrrrrrrrrrrrr I'll take a signed coffee mug. Why would you want me to sign a coffee mug lol

You can't see clipping with a DMM. winnerrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Sorry we don't ship to Canada via USPS anymore... They've lost over 12 subs and we quit using them for Canada.

USD or british pounds... I'll take Euro's as well Yen..no.

You don't need to call anybody..I told you what to do Send it in and we'll figure out whats going on.

Cash

No clue..just fill out the warranty paper that was in with the box with all of your contact information and we'll check it out.

90 grand up front and we'll start talking $90,000!!!!! Is that per sub!?!? That's for you to put down to be serious...way too many tire kickers in this world. If you have the money..i'll make the time. $90,000 better get me 23" ATLEAST. Note I never said what size anything was AWWHH SHIT! I wouldn't mind a 22-24inch BTL... im skeptical about ordering 2 18" BTLs for my set up then.. next week the new size comes out.. No..I never said any of that. The BTL's aren't going to change and we aren't going to make bigger then a 22... I said if you have the money, I have the time. ..a smart poker player never shows his cards..

90 grand up front and we'll start talking $90,000!!!!! Is that per sub!?!? That's for you to put down to be serious...way too many tire kickers in this world. If you have the money..i'll make the time. $90,000 better get me 23" ATLEAST. Note I never said what size anything was

Send it in to us and we'll check it out. Fi Car Audio - Warranty 5450 Cameron St #102 Las Vegas, Nv 89118