NDMstang65

A subwoofer is only supposed to reproduce 20-80Hz. That's IT. Get some mids with some balls to them...personally I never have a sub playing anything above 56Hz..none of our subs have issues with "house" "trance"...hardcore rock..double kick drum..any of that stuff..but the kick drums are mostly correlated with a midbass driver..not a sub. Not saying any of our subs have issues with anything up to 80-100 Hz but it's foolish in my mind to run a subwoofer that high. Any person that says you need to cross your subs at 100Hz or higher isn't the most intelligent individual in the world...because that isn't going to sound so great regardless what they may think. Go talk to some hardcore SQ guys and see what they say. I've got a BTL 18 sitting in my living room for home theater duty...it sounds fine. It comes down to the loose nut that is behind what it goes into and the controls .

I've got questions.. At what frequency is the power supply and output transistors switching at on the H bridges? As well as the class D's

Wasting your time. Put the sub in a box within the guidelines that we've set on the website and on here in the Technical section. The subs do not model right in any box program and it will tell you to put a pair of 18's in a shoebox sized enclosure for a 'decent' response curve...which simply isn't correct by any means.

No part of any warranty anywhere will cover burned parts or anything.. Including doing something dumb. Cool. I've owned nearly every DD woofer that they've ever built. I had a pair of the first run of 9915's that they ever produced and turned them inside out 5 times. Guess what? I paid 300 dollars per recone. We take care of people definitely WAY more then we should. In fact for the first time in a number of years one person actually packaged their woofer up properly and sent it back with all of the correct paper work and information attached with it. I called the gentleman and asked him what size shirt he wore because this was the first time in well over 3 years that we've ever got anything back that was done correctly. It's a shame that you have to reward somebody for having a bit of intelligence and actually READING the stickers on the outside of the packaging material, and the warranty slip inside of each and every box. The fact is that none of those products (Aside from DD which are assembled in Oklahoma) are built in the US. It's easy to eat the cost on an amp when you don't have to pay anybody to do anything other then put a UPS label on it there is a big difference. There is absolutely no sense in a company having to pay for something that you did. If you'd like to talk about the other end of the spectrum you can also look at the 3kwp amps are selling for $550ish a piece right? So you have 1 die...then you have 5..then you have 30. So now you have to sell 250 amps to be able to even cover cost of what you have lost to even pay the bills... Business and Marketing is a LOT more complicated then I think you have a grasp on...there's nothing wrong with doing somebody a favor...but if you are cutting your own throat your mother raised a fool. We can take the Ryan-Air approach to things if you'd like. If you are handicapped and need a wheel chair to go from one end of the airport to another you've gotta pay for it. Regards.

^^ We might just possibly know what we're talking about with the whole guidelines thing. If you build it outside of the guidelines don't be surprised if it sounds horrible Box programs suck.

Scott already emailed you.. No idea what is going on with UPS, somebody up there has their head up their ass. There is absolutely no reason why it would be returned to us...we'll see where it is when the server updates in the morning and call our UPS rep.

You do not need specs. Follow our guidelines in the tech section for boxes. The new Q's work fine in the same boxes as the old Q's.

You didn't read the big sticker on the outside of the packaging material...it specifically says Do not use bass boost ...and you might not want to do that sitting in your driveway. You'll probably piss the neighbors off

No part of any warranty anywhere will cover burned parts or anything.. Including doing something dumb.

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume. No idea.. I don't use it for good reason. I use a pen and a piece of paper and a calculator.. It's just geometry

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

My calculator? The physical port is calculated down the center of the port, the physical length is 29.5" the length with end correction is 31.5". When I get some time I'll draw it up in sketchup if I have to. No without end correction and the RE port calculator.. the ID wall is 24" long, the OD is right around 32" long (outside wall)..did the math in my head haven't actually worked it out ..31" long down the center line just does not sound right...not taking to account end correction..

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port. Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.) That port is realistically about 26.75" long. Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet... Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet.. Which would still tune it around 33Hz.. But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

yes.

It does have a couple batteries in it though..

Been too busy to finish it the way it is intended to be finished...i'll make time in the next 6 months or so and make it how it is intended to be. Then i'll post finished pics

It'l show up again one of these days when it is time

it's G-14 classified lmao. It'l show up again one of these days

holiday man..we're not in the shop until tuesday

Current backorders should be cleared up around the middle of june..starting into the 3rd week of june or so...that totally depends on customs though. Sometimes it's 3 days..sometimes it's 3 weeks if not longer...and it's totally out of our control. *tentatively*

We build thousands of subs, they are all built under the exact same processes. They are tested in house to make sure nothing goes out that does not work properly. Tell ya what to do. Go to a ford dealership Buy a new mustang Set the cruise on 70 on the interstate and drive it straight into the wall. Haul the mustang back to the dealership and say "It drove itself into the wall I want a new one now" That is exactly what you just did with the sub , They do not spontaneously com bust. There need not be any finger pointing here..it's not the amp manufacturer's direct fault that the sub blew. It is not our fault that the sub blew either. There is absolutely no need in trying to sue anybody or point the finger to anybody else. You messed up, and now you are learning from your mistake. You did not have things set up properly. The saying "Shit trickles down hill" is very fitting here. The bottom of the hill is the sub...if you set things up improperly from the beginning it only snowballs and gets worse from there resulting in a dead sub.

You aren't going to prove that they have a faulty product..there's nothing at fault with it. It's like putting diesel fuel in a gas car. That obviously is not going to work... This only happens due to abuse...there is more glue on those coils then anybody else uses. It is absolutely not a warranty issue. No offense, but there is no part of a warranty that covers stupidity..you did something stupid and the speaker..took what you did stupid..and did what you told it to do. The end result..is burning up. You can send the sub in for a recone...but there is no warranty. WHAT IS NOT COVERED? This warranty is valid only if the product is used for the purpose for which it was designed. *DUE TO THE EXTREME NATURE OF ITS INTENDED USAGE, THE BTL SERIES OF SUBWOOFERS HAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE (outside of arriving in proper working condition after shipping) It does not cover: Damage due to improper installation. Subsequent damage to other components. Damage caused by exposure to moisture, excessive heat, chemical cleaners, and/or UV radiation. Damage through negligence, misuse, accident or abuse. Repeated returns for the same damage will be considered abuse. Any cost or expense related to the removal or reinstallation of product. Speakers damaged due to amplifier clipping or distortion. Burnt or open voice coils. Ripped, torn, or burnt spiders, lead wire, cones, or surrounds. Items previously repaired or modified by any unauthorized repair facility. Return shipping on non-defective items. Products returned without a Return Authorization (RMA) number. Freight Damage. The cost of shipping products to FI Car Audio. Service performed by anyone other than Fi Car Audio or an affiliated repair facility.

Yeah that sub had a variable Qts coil on it.. I don't remember the dimensions of it right off of the top of my head but i'm sure we can come up with something that would work for it. Though it wouldn't be OEM with the variable Q but in the least we could get it working again.

oopsy

1x2" .120" wall mechanical tubing. It..doesn't go anywhere lol.