NDMstang65

I will probably get a lot of flack because of this but i was able to pick up a MRP M2000 for $300 brand new. http://www.caraudioxperts.com/p14342/Alpine-MRP-M2000-V-Power-Amps/product_info.html you could get two of these and still be under $700. Let us know what you decide on. matt You're going to burn stuff up with that amp fyi. Those amps have issues..

So long as you don't get knob happy you'll be fine.

You're going to turn that PR inside out before you break the sub. The rule of thumb is double the cone area of what you originally have. Just a FYI. If you ask..we can probably make you some PR's that would work..and not fall apart

I have 3 12 setup built with aa havocs box tuned 30 hz customer want alittle more power and alittle louder so I'm going to change tuning to 38 and use the mayhem. Or.ni Nightshade.wihich will hold up more? Will both sound decent tuned low 30 or tuned high 38 or better? Don't tune to 38. No higher then 33 on anything you intend on playing music on...otherwise he's going to break stuff.

Never got anything from you...which is..odd.. Order the recone off of the website and select "Yes" to send in sub...then..send in the sub. Please package it properly in a double wall box and wrap the edge of the basket in a pool noodle. (No we do not send you a box, nor do we send you a call tag, it is up to you to send us the woofer and get it to us) "Yes" to basket is there for people who are wanting to recone their woofers to other sizes, or have broken their basket and need a full rebuild. If you package it properly it should arrive without anything being tore up. The website automatically charges you for return shipping from us back to you. Please include your receipt from your order in the box as well as a piece of paper with your name, address, phone number, and email address, what it is you are sending in and what you want done to it. We'll then pull your ticket once the speaker has arrived and rebuild it and send it back out to you via UPS.

You need an adjustable subsonic filter before you even think about buying a speaker from us...otherwise you're going to kill stuff. Know what I am saying?

We are waiting for the magnets to clear customs. We were initially told the 29th for delivery and are hoping that is still true. If not, we will contact all those that have the subs on order and keep them updated. During back orders all subs will be machined and filled in the order received. Currently we only have about 110 on back order and will have them filled within a weeks time. Those that more recently will take a couple more days to get too. We do tend to fill back orders fast once parts are in as we will run extra shifts and set all machines up just for one part production.

Just about any bass mekanik cd's have tone tracks. If not, pickup a MECA cd from www.mecacaraudio.com I think you have to join and you get a free one..or you might be able to buy one. I'm not sure..I haven't bought one in years, I just use a signal generator. As far as your headunit, the gain should be set according to it..so around 2 volts.

I dont know... i know everything was really stiff so i wanted to be safe. so this wont effect the lifespand or anything ? and im going to turn up the gains a bit more on the amp. and yes, the subsonic is at about 28 and my box is tuned to 31 - 32 hz. thnx again you guys are awesome im just gonna try to keep the car cool but im hoping it will only be the magnet and back getting wet.. luckly cant see the rust Hahah but since the sub is gonna be moving air, im sure it will get rid of the wetness and heat. No...whenever we build prototype stuff it goes wide open free air with 2500 watts for a few hours to loosen the suspension in playing at/near Fs.. A gain isn't a volume knob, it needs to be set according to the voltage you are getting out of your headunit. (Play a 60Hz test tone with your RCA's unhooked and verify your voltage with a dmm on AC voltage with the volume where is your "max" that you listen to) If you get 2.5 volts out of it..then that's where your amplifiers gain needs to be set...if you don't have access to an o-scope. Outside of that, you need to verify your subsonic filter with a test CD. Start playing the test cd at 40Hz and go down each track by track. When the sub is moving the least amount, this means you are at the port tuning frequency and the port is doing all of the work. Click down 2 more tracks and adjust your subsonic filter up until the sub doesn't freak out anymore. Once you play under port tuning frequency the sub is basically acting/working in a "free air" environment.

...and WinISD models in a vehicle since when? You are totally missing transfer function..and how a vehicle works. Why in the world..would we say DO NOT PUT THESE IN A BOX...if they could be put in a ported box? You put Q's in that enclosure you'd gain and wouldn't break them...as fast at least. We told you..don't do it...and you didn't listen. It is a single spider sub that is made for 550 watts at 20Hz, IB..that's it..nothing more. I can't make you listen...but we wouldn't tell you to NOT do something..multiple times...if we didn't think they were going to break. They aren't made for what you put them in...at all... You don't buy a lambo to go mud racing. You buy a mud racer to go mud racing.

Wait 2 weeks? Why do you have to wait 2 weeks? You don't have to "break in" a sub..you just have to play it. Keep in mind that you do not want to clip your amplifier, or use any "boosting" features in your headunit or on the amp. You also must have your subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning of the port. Things break in over time..you don't have to "take it easy" on a sub..it breaks in by moving..if you don't make it move..then it isn't going to "break in"

Humidity sucks...nothing we can really do about it. 99% of the energy that you put into that coil is burned off as waste heat and energy..which is why cooling is so important. If you live in a humid climate it's only worse because the box turns into an oven of sorts...if you get things hot inside of the enclosure it can draw moisture to the metal...it's just a natural process of oxidation and simply happens. Otherwise I would be looking for leaks in your car and soaking MDF...

How is warranty on Fi subwoofers? i notice there website doesnt even have a number to call! There isn't a warranty on the BTL's...because they only break if you do something stupid. If it is a manufacturing defect then we'll take care of that. DD has the same thing..as is any other car audio "manufacturer"..if you burn stuff up because of doing something dumb they aren't going to cover it under warranty.

Just a heads up... I paid $223.20 shipped for the first 3515's that came out (yes i've been around that long and owned nearly every woofer DD has ever made)...and there isn't that much difference from when then then they are now. That guy is trying to rip you off and talk you into 3515's...because he's making money off of you. I'll put a BTL up against a 9515 any day of the week when low end linear output is concerned...much less a 3515.

Figuring out what is loudest for your vehicle is totally up to you to figure out. I can't give you a ready mix = loudest enclosure for your car...that comes through trial and error and testing. What we suggest is for a daily driving scenario...outside of that you are on your own. If I could tell you what would be loudest in your car I wouldn't have anything to do with speakers...because I would own every casino in Las Vegas . Point is..it's a crap shoot...so long as you stay within our guidelines you should be fine for a daily driver. Outside of that you are pretty much on your own.

As said before...it's up to you to set things correctly. If you abuse things then the speaker will simply burn up..if you have things set up properly, then it'l be fine.

The inductance heat ring lowers the inductance of the coil a bit and helps in the transient (snappy sound) response it also raises the compression ratio of the gap inside of the motor. The more air is compressed the more it kicks off heat...

Read the tech section...it explains it very well on the website, and on here as well.

Where you see "2ohms" that is where the speaker hooks to your amplifier. The + going to the - on the far right hand side of the diagram is just a wire to connect the coils in series...thats how you get 2ohms with a dual 1ohm coil.

so you dont have people with BTLs breaking theirs when they burp? I guess youll have to look for my order for 6 BTLs then Nick Sure they break them..when they don't have their subsonic filter set properly and play way below tuning and shred the soft parts... Burping is generally on tuning, and is the least stressful on the soft parts mechanically speaking.. Point is, you bought IB woofers that are made for 550 watts @ 20Hz and have a single spider on them and put them in a ported box...it's not made for that. It's like taking a lotus and trying to go mud bogging with it...i'm surprised they lasted as long as they did to be dead honest with you. Car audio subs..are made for car audio..those subs aren't made for a ported box in a vehicle.tBTL's have a LOT stiffer suspension on them and keep things under control to an extent...I told you that when you bought them and you didn't want to listen

It's in the "Tech" section on the website...and in the link below as well.

..and that's what happens when you put infinite baffle woofers in a box...

You can use a 9v battery or a drill battery..either one.

I'd use aero's and tune to say 32-33Hz.

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