NDMstang65

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So.. I don't use any of this new bullshit, i keep it old school with audiocontrol stuff that does not mess up. Resistor packs and things to sifts slopes and crossover points.. What is a good deck now that actually has the capability of a H-701 processor or the likes there of? I'm drawing a blank... Any suggestions would be great! Thanks! -Nick

Depends on the amp.. 1200 watts or so you'd be fine with a 4 gauge run.

What is your budget for the amp?

Got them turned off...shoot me an email or i'll hop on AIM if you've got that.

I'd sell ya my DVA-9860/H701 combo lol That's big dorrahs.

I have a DX-28 I'd let go if you want the old analog route. As for the other options, only the 99 does what the P9/H701 does but that is 3way front +. If you are just in for 2 way there are more choices. I'm always hunting for old analog stuff. Edit: I see that's an old Coustic unit...what do you want for it?

I wanna do another shirt design..but I need an artist for it

Should spec similar to the Q.

I've got mine crossed over at 2300Hz myself.. They're good out to 5K..but I don't like running a mid that high.

They were not running an external crossover unit is why i said that.

Good question.. I honestly don't know. I don't look at power ratings or amplifier ratings or anything, I know when a speaker is pissed and is having enough. In the truck i had a kicker 800.4 per door...so the 2 rear channels on 4 of them so say 100 watts a mid or so?

Mau Tung REVOLUTION :hai: lol

It'd be a supergauss version of the sub.. Likely very Extreme SPL oriented.

Yeah that's gotta change a little. Talked to our web guy.. Just a weeeeeeeee bit too commie. Albeit funny as hell

2500Hz is fine If that isn't enough midbass I'm not sure what else to suggest to you

Stop, or vacations will be handed out.

This is just for a truck i'm going to be building.. Found a 3 way kicker XO for 90 bucks on amazon. Everything I use myself is old analog stuff that simply doesn't break and forget where it was set Thanks gents!

Damn that's a LOT of money. eeeeshhhh

So linear excursion is that xmax thing isnt it? Wow, 11.5mm makes my Bravox CS60CF feel like a noob!!! their xmax is 3mm Well, Im not running active anyways, carbons would have needed an amp, more wiring and tweeters. So instead of coming out $225, more like $600 Btw Nick, why run the mid so low? Do yo dislike midbass (8") drivers? Where are your subs (LPF) crossed at? since your carbons are at 53... SQ...any idiot that says you need to run a subwoofer up to 80Hz simply does not get the sound quality game (The higher you cross those things over the easier it is to locate in your car). I've ran my mids without a HPF many times at shows and what not (granted this is a controlled environment and I know what I am doing) and got rave reviews for my subs stage..that wasn't even there I don't need an 8" midbass driver if I've got the carbons. They do whatever the 8 would do and more..cleaner. Split coil technology is great I think I had the sub low passed on a 12dB/octave slope around 50Hz or so IIRC. Right off the top of my head I cannot remember. I cross all of my stuff over very low..just personal taste and tricks of the trade.

Don't put a BL in a sealed box. If you must go sealed, go with a Q.

Because they have 11.5mm of 1 way linear excursion Ballsy mid man..i've got mine @ 56Hz on the bottom end

Perfectly normal.. How the spiders and everything set up on it it does not always coat 100% of the outside, it is done to the best of the ability without coating the inner roll of the spider pack..because if you do that it will fatigue the spiders and crack. There is almost of inch of glue under the dustcap. The only reason there is even glue put there is to set the cone initially and for cosmetic reasons. Serves no purpose other then that.

Yes definitely... Random money shows up in paypal and we have no idea where it came from or what it is for. Please put the date that you sent it and the name that it was sent under.

I wouldn't use that.. If you want to replace the tinsels a tinsel and dustcap kit is 15 bucks..you cannot just solder a piece on the end of that, you have to pull the old tinsels through the cone and solder a knot under the dustcap, glue it back down and bring the new tinsels back through the cone..