NDMstang65

I'm always up for CD's

http://www.myspace.com/ficaraudio Slowly working on it...more pics and such will get added as i get time and what not. so yeah, instead of "Does Fi have a website?" its now..."zOMG does Fi have a myspace?!?!" Let's see how many people are proud of what they run...add us and post pics!! :fing34:

Sounds like you've got the amps wired wrong...or something of that nature and shot a bunch of dc through the coil... None the less a 18" recone is 110 bucks

cool

buy it off of termpro.com ...a sweep would give you a decent idea on a certain frequency to play to achieve maximum spl...should find that frequency and play a couple around it to find your peak, then let your car charge for a while and then burp it again..should see your peak output

Components off... Should just bring like dBjams or a disc that has frequency tones on it...

coulda sworn i put you on there...eh you are now lol

yeah, way too big..jackin' the whole page up lol

http://www.myspace.com/ficaraudio Slowly working on it...more pics and such will get added as i get time and what not. so yeah, instead of "Does Fi have a website?" its now..."zOMG does Fi have a myspace?!?!" :fing34:

Not necessarily, efficiency is mainly derived from how strong the motor is. Granted most high xmax subs have a LOT of moving mass involved, which raises the q up and effectively kills your motor strength.... Bottom line there are TONS of different ways you can approach designing a really high xmax sub...but most of which isn't practical, and isn't needed.

Have to pay royalties to use the technology.

Nope, we won't use xbl^2 Split coil technology may be a possibility in the future though.

.5ohm is hard on everything (its really .375) amps, subs both... Your amps are attempting to put out more current and less voltage...just how ohms law works....in turn gobs of current = broke subs and life of amps diminished by a long shot. 2kw for the subs would be fine, as that would be what we recommend.

60 out of 80 on a volume knob is not relevant either...tinsels do not burn themselves clipping burns tinsels because it generates a ton of excess heat, aside from the fact that the sub is rated at 1000 watts rms . The days today of the high current amps loaded way down produce a TON of current, and when you get loose behind the gains/volume knob things are much more prone to burn and have problems... I've thrown over 8000 watts through those tinsels, with a high voltage based amp, not high current...and it's pretty as can be. Easy on the volume knob, or get a shop to tune the amps for you...otherwise you'll continue to have problems regardless of what you run.

No any options we do later on will have to be done before the sub is assembled...it isnt something that you can 'add on' your current sub. We're talking a LOOOOOOOOOONG shot down the road, not anytime even remotely soon.

I believe he is referring to the manner as to which the wattage is delivered not clipping. My understanding of it is when you load the amps that low the current increases more than the increase in voltage (current is the acutal flow of electrons, voltage is just the push). A greater increase in current than voltage is going to mean an even bigger increase in heat that has to be dissapated. *Although I could be completely wrong* Dead on

Cooling is not relevant..you got happy with said volume knob and burnt the tinsel

Stage 2's aren't going to take that kind of power either, its a issue with running the amps that low and producing a lot of excess heat... Easy on the volume knob and the gains, it'l be fine.

That much power out of a high current amp strapped down low? No..you use your head with those amps and your not going to hurt the sub...i mean we threw 4 of them on a BTL and the tinsels weren't even remotely burnt...nor was the coil. When you strap amps down that low you are attempting to put out more current then voltage to drive the sub....which is nothing more then heat...i've harped time and time again that there is NO need to run an amp below 1ohm on a daily driving scenario, it's too rough on equipment, amps and subs both. Doesn't matter how you set it up with a DMM or not, only way to know you are not clipping them (which by looking how brown the tinsels are there was clipping/gobs of current present) is with a o-scope. The only gain that is functional when the amps are strapped is the one that is acting as the 'master'. - .375 per amp is a really low load..i'm honestly shocked you haven't killed them yet.

1900 watts severely clipped...that tinsel is burnt pretty bad...and by the looks of the back of the cone it looks like its had a rough life under tuning. Thats what happens when you strap high current amps down that low..they shoot a bunch of current out and produce a LOT of excess heat.. Recone is the only way to fix it, unless you want to try to solder the lead back together.

Hey guys, working on getting a myspace page up...if you wouldn't mind of taking pictures of subs in your installs i'm going to attempt to make a collage of sorts to use for the background of the page! Thanks a ton! -Nick

yep

sounds good. Will it be like the the XXX? Like the structure of it? Handle as much power as the XXX? Have as much xmax? Cost alot less? HOw long would it take im gettin my new setup in like 1-2 months could yall special build me a Fi XXX or like a BTL with great SQ and High xmax? We're talking possibly years down the road...and making a one off woofer would cost in the ballpark of 2-3 grand, and have real no advantage over anything else...

Too big for any real practical purposes...but we'll come out with a new basket and more and more options eventually .

General rule of thumb is 2 weeks and its at your doorstep.