dustin420

SPECIFICATIONS: Type Mono Class-D 1500 watts x 1 1 ohm 800 watts x 1 2 ohms 400 watts x 1 4 ohms 3000 watts x 1 2 ohms (Dual 1500D's) THD at 4 ohms <0.1% S/N Ratio >90 dB Input Sens. 200mV - 6v Freq. Response 10 - 350 Hz Fuse Rating 40 amps x 4 Dimensions 17" L x 9" W x 2" H Warranty 2 years Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz Double Sided Through Hole Epoxy PCB Daisy-Chain Through Output RCA 24dB/Oct Variable Crossover Multi-Way Protection Circuitry (Thermal/Over Current/Speaker Short/Speaker DC Protection) Variable Subsonic Filter Variable Bass Boost Variable Low Pass Filter Variable Phase Shift Zero(0) Gauge Power Supply Connectors Tested Voltage & THD : 14.4V & Less than 1% THD Operating Voltage : DC 10V~18V Digital Class-D Linkable Mono Block Amplifier 1 Ohm Stability RCA Line Input and Master Output 24dB Octave Crossover Slope Wired Remote Controller it has a 24db slope.

yep what M5 said. just adding when a sub goes below tuned hz its called unloading, its essentially the same as ruuning free air with all the power a sub can take thermally which useally allows the sub to have crazy excursion. also just because for ssf is set at 30hz doesn't mean your sub can't play lower then that, all the ssf does is have a negative DB slope beyond a certain point so depednign on the amp it could have a 12db slope or 36db slope just depend on the amp.

from the pics it looks like a 4th order BP? if so get us some specs then we can help.

because to fit a 15 it would have to fire up at the trunk lid and i hear that is the worst position for spl. i think im gonna go 2 12's anyway try them sealed at first then just get a design from pete if i ever want more output.

ok i need some help decideing between my next setup. i allready have a RE12.1 amp rated at 1200wrms at 1ohm but i've seen bench tests showing close to 1500wrms, i have a 99 grand am and would like to keep the box around 3.5cf net. now my options either 2 10's ported 1 12 ported or 2 12's sealed. in all honesty i would love 2 12 mags sealed but as nick informed me their only come in dvc2 which won't work with my amp, well they will work but i dont think their output will meet my needs. so now that leaves me looking. so far im looking into ssa icons, audioque 2.5, aa arsenal, and re se for dual sub setup and AA havoc, audioque hdc, nightshade, and re sx for single sub setups. what i want to achieve is a 140 on music, have a decently flat response from 35-70hz but be audioable down to 25hz. whatever setup i choose im gonna have pete (hexibase) design my box. so let the opinions flow.

anyone? i plan on using my re12.1 amp (1200wrms at1ohm) first im thinking of trying a sealed 3cf box then if i don't like it or ever want more output go 4cf ported.

ya i could just use one crossover but idk im lazy and it sounds decent now so im not gonna mes with it. i thought about selling the 12.1 also but i love this amp, plus i highly doubt i could make enough from selling it to buy a "good" 1000wrms+ at 2ohm amp.

i think 1lb of pollyfill= .5 more cf but im not sure. honestly i'd start at 3cf if you don't like it add braces or books or anything to take up space lowering the overall cf till you like it, thats all i can suggest.

Not quite how it works, in particular since the OP asked for a smooth response from 35-70hz...although I will add 70hz is WAY too high to cross a sub at. hehe your gonna hate my then, cause right now i have the sub crossed at 80hz on the amp and 125hz on the HU, haha but i have stock midrange speaks so i have to work with what i got to get it to sound decent. jim do you think that if i got 2 12's they could do 140 on music? thats what im shooting for since thats how loud my last setup was? also if i don't like them sealed and decide to go ported do you think i could fit them in 3.5cf? i know it would be driver specific but a generall over view.

have you tried adding pollyfill to the box? that will make the sub act like its in a bigger box might help your score a little and also the low end might pick up some. and if you don't like it you can allways take it out.

im just gonna leave all the box designing up to pete, he has alot more expeience than i do. i was thinking 1 12 but 2 10's will have more surface area and motor strentgh thats why i question my descion.

ok do whatever.

General rule of thumb is that you only need half the port area if you use aero ports. hmm for real? i talked to pete (hexibase) about an enclosure for my atlas 15 in which i only planned to use 29sq port area and he told me that i would probally have port noise. so if im gonna get port noise with only one atlas and can gurantee he will get port noise with 2 12inch btls with only 38sq port area.

hmm don't know about output but with only 38sq port area you probally get a lot of port noise. with the bigger port you will not have port noise and will probally be slightly louder.

huh? not sure what that means. whats "twice its size"? do you mean port area or overall box cubic feet?

using those dimensions you only have 38sq inchs of port area. thats not enough, if it was me i'd go 4 4inch ports, that would up the area to 50 but the ports would have to be 24inchs long to achieve the same tuneing.

well since i own 2 AA atlas's and have one in my car right now i can tell you what i've found to work for me. first i tried a 2.5cf box then adjusted the qts, low qts was very punchy great for rock/techno/ anything with a fast beat but the low end spl fell off some and overall loudness went down. with the high qts the lows were excellent, had great authority and sounded awsome, the sub still sounds good on rock but noweher near as punchy as low qts. i added 1lb of pollyfill to the box and high qts came alive, the lows got even better and output increased slightly, enough to notice, so i tired low qts with the added pollyfill and it helped the lows some but not enough to meet my desires. so the box i have now in my car is 2.5cf with one pound of polly fill with the high qts, this to me gives the best overall output with best low end and still has pretty decent punch for rock. hope this helps if not ask more questions i'll be happy to help. also if you ever want another let me know since i have one for sale.

i really don't see the big deal about the new motors, yes their wide as fvck but why is everyone making a big deal about it? theres a thread on roe that has like 150 posts of people talkin all this crap about the new motor and just because it isn't triple stacked its automatically "bad" people really have no clue. im sure scott knows what hes doing and has a very good reason behind the new motor. now all we need is some tests to show how big of improvement it made.

wow, looks crazy nice. could you play something by flyleaf, something thats rock but has female vocals?

everyone that bought an enclosure design from pete (hexibase) could you please PM or email me i have a favor to ask. kicker_solox1(at)hotmail.com edit- nevermind, if a mod could delete this, would be aprreciated.

its all about install man, iirc pete from ttb was doing a 149 with 2 rl-i 8's in his "hellboy" box.

so no one watchs it all? what about PPV? tonight its serra vs gsp anyone care to comment? i hope gsp dominates him since i disike serra a lot.

anyone watch TUF on wed.? i did and think its cool how they setup it up to get int he house. anyone watch the fights before? there were some pretty good ones. also on tuf look for a guy named Luke Zachrich he is from bryan ohio which is literally 15mins from my house.

if it was me i'd tune to 30hz if you absolutely have to tune that low, since once the box is in the car it will naturally tune 1-2hz lower. should work out nice if you have the power to push them.

dd1508, AA 8, and the rl-i are really the only ones i would consider. for 8's just make sure you have the power to push them effectively.