jack

What is the difference between marine audio and car audio? Will the typical marine audio amplifier work in a car? Are their wny special considerations? Wiring? Air Circulation? Voltage? Thanks for the input.

Ok, thanks, that's it, moisture resistance and no other considerations, it'll just pop in to a car with no problem, that's good info. Thanks again

Not only the original parts, but cruise the site and read about the processes that they follow for repairing whatever is needed. The methods that they use are proper. Read here. http://www.db-r.com/repairs/index.html A good part installed all wrong may work for a bit, but when installed properly, well you know...

I see two different md2s' One says "Merlin MD.2" and has all of the connections at the bottom of the amp on the long side The other says "MD-2D" and has all of the connections on the right end of the amp (this is the one on the usamps.com site durrently) The power ratings are identical, but there is no way that with all of the radical differences they are te same, one has to be better My questions are these; What are the differences (is one like a 5 year old model and the other current?) And of course, which one has more power! (do they exceed rated power or just meet it? at 2 ohms specifically), Does anyone have specifics or no? And what else about them should one know? Thanks for your time and assistance!

Can a 100.4 run bridged at 2 ohms?

I am not qualified to agree,argue or otherwise. I just wanted to throw my impression out there for further clarification and I might learn something. I thought that the Alty was a fixed part of the equation, what I thought was that the alty generates power based on the rpms which it is spinning, period. And that at 2200 rpms whether the lights and stereo are on or off, the same exact power is being generated and is pushed toward the battery, feeding the car on the way, and the battery just receives power as needed. You said "While driving with the radio, fan, lights, phone charger, ect, the battery is using much more current and that is where the alternator is putting out most of its power." Don't those things get their power from the alty unless the alty is not providing any power? And the battery doesn't "use" current, does it? I mean the power from the alty is made available to the car before the battery can charge from it anyway, right? look at the order of the connections. So is the alty generating more power at the same rpms or is it simply that more of it's generated power is being drawn? To paraphrase, I thought that the altys output was a constant based on rpms and that the battery's purposes were to A -store power (you know, to start the car and more) and B -deliver power in the event that the alty is wither spinning slow not at all and C it is the last thing to receive power and it only draws power that is forced on it, after the car's needs are met, up to it's capacity as it. Or have I been misinformed? The alty does vary it's own output based on a need that is senses and reacts to So, when I thought that the battery assists the alty by storing and delivering power in the even that the alty is unable to or it's output is not enough I was wrong and it's actually visa versa, the battery delivers power and alty only "kicks in" to assist and re-charge the battery to deliver power as needed? Any electrical engineers in the house who can explain. I just want to know if I have had a long term misconception or partially or not at all? I also thought that when the lights dim it was because the alty's supply is not quite enough to power everything that is connected to it and the amp draws the most and takes more than it's fair share and so the lights have to deal with less power than they need partially because the battery can't unload its stored power fast enough. is that wrong also?

So I stayed home sick from work, Tues/Wed and I built an enclosure. Go to Car Domain and look up the build here; http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3007534 or try the link below Enclosure Photos SO the 2 subs are these, each sealed in a 1.268 cu ft enclosure and both facing backward in the trunk of a Toyota Camry, All thanks to Jason @ Cadence. Cadence 12 SE SOLO BEAST DR, SPECIFICATIONS: Voice Coil: 2.5" Impedance: 2 Ohm Dual Coil Power Handling: 600 Watts RMS / 1200 Watts PEAK Magnet Size: 90oz. Xmax: 1.12" Full Stroke Frequency Response: 20Hz - 500Hz SPL @ 1w/1m: 87dB Mounting Depth: 6.5" FEATURES: Mineral Filled Polypropylene Cone. Oversize Butyl Rubber Surround. Heavy Duty Cast Aluminum Frame. Extended and Vented Motor Structure . Four Layer Kapton High Power Voice Coil. Progressive Linear Flat Kevlar Spider. Does this sub look familiar to anyone? Have you at least seen the frame before? Soundstream? I honestly think that I am seeing the same design elsewhere an that frame design is pretty easy to identify So first off, what do you think of the subs? Anyone out there with any experience using them or a similar sub? What amp did you use? I have a Kenwood kdcx-491 HU And for the amp that is currently hooked up; Cadence TXA500HC it only puts out 600 watts at 2 ohms, Now for the amp question, here I am copying part of another one of my threads that I had posted only in the Sundown forum where it got two comments after about a ton of views. I have updated some of it's details and remved unnecesarry info. "I would like to be at about 600@4ohms and 1200@2ohms if possible so that if I choose to I can run only one sub at a full 600wrms and potentially upgrade subs in the future. Sure I'd like to say that SQ is all I want but, not in the trunk, SPL is what a sub if for IMO. I would like to compare actual numbers, for example, I've considered only 13.6-13.8 volts is actually getting to the amp in my car (big 3 upgrade, check, 4 guage, check, old-ass half-dead stock Toyota Camry 4 cyl alty, check!) and, for example, the Hifonics amp is maybe 10% overrated (so I've read) then to actually deliver close to 1200, or more, watts at 2 ohms . So far I think that these are my best choices (if I missed a good option please speak up) choices, each can be purchased and shipped from eBay for $275+/- 15-20 bucks and this is the top of my price range. (Yes I understand that you get what you pay for, but those words do nothing for my hobby budget, says my wife and daughter) A MTX TA 8101 (slightly underrated?) 500 @ 4 and 1000 @ 2 (1500/1) (Or the 7801 that should have the actual power to get me there and at the lower end of my prices so far (4*35 fuses)) B. What about the new Soundstream PCA1500D 800 @ 4 and 1100 @ 2 C. PG RSD 1200.1 775@ 4 and 1200@ 2 D. Lanzar Opti2000d (i have no idea) 700 @ 4 and 1100 @ 2 (1600/1.3 and 2600/0.5) E. US MD2 (probably low) 550 @4 and 1000 @2 (1500/1) Maybe $50 more than the rest or I've seen a couple recently for 250-275 shipped supposedly "NIB" or "never seen power" but from joe people. F. Sundown SAZ-1500d would be higher on my list if the price were a bit more in my humble range G. Fosgate t series or power series? H. Kicker zx1000 (Probably low) 500 @ 4 and 1000 @ 2, I. Hifonics BXI 2006, (slightly overrated?) 650 @ 4 and 1300 @ 2 (2000/1) Of these amps, does anyone have any actual experience with one or all of them, If so I want to hear about it, good, bad or indifferent, what are some of the strengths and/or weaknesses of each amp? ***Radical Idea. I've even considered going a little creative and buying 2 Cadence TXA 750 D 600 wrms @1 and strapping them for 1200 @2, it would be a bit of a pain and require some additional money and mods but then I could use 1 at a time in different cars, Just a thought. What other similar dual amp setups can you think of? Any? I'm not even trying to pose like I really understand 100% of everything completely about what makes one amp superior to another on paper and I know zero people locally who have experience with these things and this is a relatively new hobby for me. And I'm not lazy either, it has taken me quite a bit of time and effort to get this list this long and confusing! And it's a big list! so I need some help! I am unusually dependant on the online forums for assistance and I am too analytical to throw a dart at the list, I need a "why" for my decision. So, what is the best or any other option? Is there a dealer in Atlanta, GA giving out great deals? Or anything for sale by an individual? I'm open to "used" if A. its a person selling it and has references and B. I pay a "used" price but (not someone looking to get all of there money back.) What would you pick? Is there another option that you would chose that is not listed? Thank you for your valuable time! It is greatly appreciated!

I know that this one has been tabled for a while, but this weekend I am trying to sell a few subs and a couple of amps to get the money for one of these amps, with no luck so far, so it's back on the front of my mind. The budget here is even more critical because I need to add at least a nice power cell to my setup to run one of these properly so that's a good bit of money after you add misc. materials and 25 pounds of shipping. This thread will soon turn into a "WTB" but if anyone knows of the current deal of the century on one of these or another one I haven't listed please let me know! The spreadsheet is less than complete and not organized properly but whatever. (and you might have to zoom in) Let's hear some input, Do I have the order about right? Two number threes because it's a tossup. Any more suggestions or recommendations? If it doesn't work so well, try this link. http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/b...s/iamps1234.jpg thanks!

Thanks man, that told me a lot. What do you know about US Amps/ RE being carried at Costco? That's big news for US Amps right, Good job guys! Here's the first offering, http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?...amp;topnav=#Top What will Costco carry next? Merlins?!? Does anyone know?

wire from a spool... v0 gauge would it be better to replace, or just add the the factory wires Add to, leave what's there in place, maybe even clean them up a bit

Let me ask you guys this question, what if you ran a fat power wire to a dist block, from there; wire A goes directly from the d block 1 to a reversed d block (2) and wire B goes from the 1st d block to a 4 farad cap and then to d block 2 and then a single power wire runs from d block 2 to the amp. Then for the ground you do basically the same thing in reverse? This way the cap is available to discharge but not in the way of straight bat/alty power when it's empty. Do you think that will work better?

Ahhh, sounds interesting, let me check it out, anyone else know this amps pros and cons?

Sonic, that's a good point, I looked at the manual on Lanzar.com to find a copywright date to see if it's part of the old or the new ans couldn't find anything, nor anything about a release date of the opti line whatsoever, so I don't know if it's pre or post Pyramid. What's your opinion of those specs? (of course assuming they are true) Haves, you had me then you lost me ith the AB class. The amp on my Camry couldn't handle that (I have already done the big three) alson, ideally I will find something good to 1 or half ohm for a bit of versitility. Thanks guys, keep the ideas flowing!

haves, I can't find much on the BP1200.1 I don't think that they make it anymore??? Maybe it was replaced with the JBL GTO1201.1??? What I have found it looks like it's only stable to 2 ohms? maybe? Do you know what the replacement was for sure? or anyone? and is it still a tank or what? Sonic, The Lanzar (OPTI not vibe) wound up on my list by a couple of recommendations and some research. Highlights, Stable to 1/2 ohm, 180 amp fuse rating, well look below, SPECS Mono Block Subwoofer Amplifier 0.5 Ohm Stable MOSFET Power Supply PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulated) System Double Sided Epoxy PCB Circuit Board Gold Plated RCA Inputs Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connections Thermal, Overload & Short Protection Remote Bass Control Soft Turn On/Off 700 Watts RMS Power into 4 Ohms 1100 Watts RMS Power into 2 Ohms 1600 Watts RMS Power into 1.3 Ohms 2000 Watts Max Power into .5 Ohms 2600 Watts Bridge Max Power Into 2 Ohms THD @ 1Watt/4 Ohm: 0.1% S/N Ratio: 90dB Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150Hz (+/-3dB) Damping Factor @ 20Hz/4 Ohms: 400 Low Pass Filter: 50Hz-150Hz, 24dB/Octave Variable Subsonic Filter: 15Hz-40Hz, 24dB/Octave Variable Bass Boost: 0 to 18dB Variable Phase Control: 0 to 180 Input Sensitivity: 200mV ~ 8V Input Impedance: 10k Ohm Line Output Impedance: 100 Ohm Fuse Rating: 30A x 6 Dimensions: 10.08'' (W) x 2.12'' (H) x 19.1'' (L) And I've heard that it does all that it says it will. At this point it's definitely a leader in my mind. For the 300 price tag that is. Compared to say the 160 amp rated mtxta81001 Thunder Super Amplifier Prizm EFX: Selectable Lighting Color, or Pusate to Beat Xtant Technologies Cooling: Thermal-Regulated, Turbo-Charged Intercooler RMS Minimum Power Rating: 500 Watts x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms 1000 Watts x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms 1500 Watts x 1 Channel @ 1 Ohm Wired EBC Remote Subwoofer Bass Level Control Included CEA-2006 Compliant Strappable with Another TA81001 Power and Protection LEDs Parametric Bass Control: -12 - +12 dB Bass Control Variable Bass Control Frequency: 30 - 80 Hz Variable Bass Control Q: 0.5 - 4.0 Onboard Crossover: LP (40 - 200 Hz), Sub (20 - 50 Hz) Phase Control: 0

I have no direct Sundown experience, I have read a lot of good things and I'm here to see what they have for my application. I have been researching amps for my newest upgrade from 10s to 12s and I wanted to get some suggestions. I have two 12" Cadence SE Solo Beast DR subs dual 2 ohm vc, 600 wrms / 1200 peak per sub. I would like to be at about 600@4ohms and 1200@2ohms if possible so that if I choose to I can run only one sub at a full 600wrms and potentially upgrade subs in the future. Sure I'd like to say that SQ is all I want but, not in the trunk, SPL is what a sub if for IMO. I would like to compare actual numbers, for example, I've considered only 13.6-13.8 volts is actually getting to the amp in my car (big 3 upgrade, check, 4 guage, check, old-ass half-dead stock Toyota Camry 4 cyl alty, check!) and, for example, the Hifonics amp is maybe 10% overrated (so I've read) then to actually deliver close to 1200 watts at 2 ohms . So far I think that these are my best choices (if I missed a good option please speak up) choices, each can be purchased and shipped from eBay for $275+/- 15-20 bucks and this is the top of my price range. (Yes I understand that you get what yo pay for, but those words do nothing for my hobby budget, says my wife and daughter) A Hifonics BXI 2006, (slightly overrated?) 650 @ 4 and 1300 @ 2 (2000/1) B Lanzar Opti2000d (i have no idea) 700 @ 4 and 1100 @ 2 (1600/1.3 and 2600/0.5) C MTX TA 8101 (slightly underrated?) 500 @ 4 and 1000 @ 2 (1500/1) (Or the 7801 that should have the actual power to get me there and at the lower end of my prices so far (4*35 fuses)) D US MD2 (probably low) 550 @4 and 1000 @2 (1500/1) Maybe $50 more than the rest or I've seen a couple recently for 250-275 shipped supposedly "NIB" or "never seen power" but from joe people. E Kicker zx1000 (Probably low) 500 @ 4 and 1000 @ 2, no intro needed and again 75+ bucks over my ideal budget and therefore a doubtful purchase So, what is the best Sundown or any other option? Is there a Sundown dealer in Atlanta, GA giving out great deals? Or anything for sale by an individual? I'm open to "used" if A. its a person selling it and has references and B. I pay a "used" price but (not someone looking to get all of there money back.) Of these other ones, if anyone has actual experience with one or all of them, what are some of the strengths and/or weaknesses of each amp? What would you pick? Is there another option that you would chose that is not listed? Thank you for your valuable time!

Man that looks incredible! Great job!

that's a good question, in the search to narrow down the list I was thinking of future versitility/options and I figured that a 2 ohm limitation would be as good of a place an any to start, if you have other criteria that you think would help narrow things down, let's consider them, or if you think that something else should have been the first cutting question, I'm all ears. I appreciate any input!

Back on track bump, progress report... My current top 1200 watt + RMS @ 2 ohm list is getting shorter! Rankings are, a MTX TA 81001 b Soundstream PCA1500D c Lanzar Opti2000d d US amps MD2? (available in price range?) e Sundown SAZ-1500d f Hifonics BXI 2006 Fosgate t series or power series- eliminated, can't find close enogh to price Kicker- eliminated, only stable to 2, right? PG RSD 1200.1 eliminated, only stable to 2 right? Reminder of what purpose it will serve below "I would like to be at about 600@4ohms and 1200@2ohms if possible so that if I choose to I can run only one sub at a full 600wrms and potentially upgrade subs in the future. Sure I'd like to say that SQ is all I want but, not in the trunk, SPL is what a sub if for IMO. I would like to compare actual numbers, for example, I've considered only 13.6-13.8 volts is actually getting to the amp in my car (big 3 upgrade, check, 4 guage, check, old-ass half-dead stock Toyota Camry 4 cyl alty, check!) and, for example, the Hifonics amp is maybe 10% overrated (so I've read) then to actually deliver close to 1200, or more, watts at 2 ohms . So far I think that these are my best choices (if I missed a good option please speak up) choices, each can be purchased and shipped from eBay for $275+/- 15-20 bucks and this is the top of my price range. (Yes I understand that you get what you pay for, but those words do nothing for my hobby budget, says my wife and daughter) Of these amps, does anyone have any actual experience with one or all of them, If so I want to hear about it, good, bad or indifferent, what are some of the strengths and/or weaknesses of each amp? ***Radical Idea. I've even considered going a little creative and buying 2 Cadence TXA 750 D 600 wrms @1 and strapping them for 1200 @2, it would be a bit of a pain and require some additional money and mods but then I could use 1 at a time in different cars, Just a thought. What other similar dual amp setups can you think of? Any?" Thanks again!

Lakaiguy, How do you like those SEs, I've heared that they are smooth, do you know off of the top of your head what the sealed enclosure vol is? Thanks for the amp review, it's much appreciated. Johnecon, Thanks for the passionate rebuttle to Sonic's review, you almost make it sound like you are offended at the thought. I would love a car full of Zapco. These just happen to be two companys that I have heard much about, and to me, let me ask you all if this is a close to accurate analogy, I kind of see it as comparing a Hyundai Santa Fe to a Land Rover Discovery, the Discovery is sharp looking, stands out, a v-8, has prestige, history, off-roading niche cult attraction like Zapco has, or at least used to have the "do it yourselfer amp modification" club type of attraction. And these things command a higher price Then there's the Santa fe, never pop the hood, consmer reports bext buy, probably rides just as good on the road, but no Camel Trophy contests for it, and it's more efficient (better gas mileage), buy its a snappy v-6 and not an 8, Hyundai has a negative connotation to it from years gone by, but they have a whole new car now and I hear that it's pretty good one, just in different ways. Then there's me, I drive an 04 explorer, Eddie Bauer, v-8, Loaded (7 pass, Power roof, 6 disk premium,,, you get the point) with an MSRP of maybe 3k less than the Discovery. I drive this car because I got zero down, zero % financing for 72 months, so basically I drive it because I'm only making the payment f the Santa Fe. So that's what I'm looking for in an amp, whatever is closest to the zapco, for the price of a crunch pzi, maybe that's the Brutus, or maybe that's the PG, or the Lanzar, I dunno, that's what I'm asking you all. Thanks again for your help, Wow, I just re-read that and it's pretty deep! he he

lakaiguy, does it stay cool, does it put out the full power, all the features and functions, are they pretty straightforward? (You're the first guy I talked to with the PG) Thanks man!

JimJ, that's a good question, One is space and two is that if you could see how smooth the power and response curves are with these things in a sealed box and now that I hear how smooth and hard the bass hits, after making the decisioon based on the charts, I wouldn't change a thing. Ramos, these had been in inventory for a bit, but yes, they have plenty of new subs out there. Holy post is right John Sonic, thanks for the good recomendation, you're not the first person to tell me that so there must be soomething to it. Thanks Gentlemen, your time is apreciated!

Thanks Denim, that is some good input!

any difference between the two? voice coils parallel/speakers series or voice coils series/speakers parallel? (2dvc4ohm subs to a 4ohm load) Thanks

well sure i know the final outcome either way I was just wondering if there is a preferred way to do it, i should have been more clear about that, I have to imagine that someone out there has hit an extra decibel one way or the other, or maybe not?

Does anyone have an opinion/experience with these new Soundstream PCA100d or PCA1500d or PCA2000d? Will they hit their numbers? Are they worth 250-350? Thanks all