SeductiveSounds

I'm running Focal 100KP (4" component set) and a set of Kicker SSMB8 So midbass is very well covered for the time being, I might switch up to something a little better. But for now they'll do I have a lead on a bnib with warrenty Chrome Shadow VRx6 Direct for $1400 CDN Or a lightly used (out of an SQ comp car) VRx6 Direct for $1200 CDN The guy is local so no shipping needed Are the prices fair? Although the Xtants would be awesome too

I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size. Please enlighten me if I am wrong. How important is the shape of the enclosure? TIA

build the box with the dimensions you have: 36 (L) x 28 (W) x 18 (H) slot port: 5.5 (W) x 16.5 (H) x 42.75 (L) Ends up being: 6.1ft^3 @ 28.05Hz I'll suggest sub up, port back seems to work very well for hatch style vehicles

RDaudio RD 5750.1D RMS power, 1 ohm mono 5500w x 1ch RMS power, 2 ohm mono 3200w x 1ch

I worked out 7.5ft^3 after all displacement Outside Dimensions: 44 (L) x 22 (W) x 21 (H) Port Dimensions: 22.75 (L) x 20.5 (W) x 6 (H) Tuning works out to 32.37 Hz

I'd like to help you out, I need to know if those are internal dimensions or not I need to know which dimensions are which (h)x(w)x(l) I also need to know which side you want to put the port on.

It was done that way simply to keep the port noise down. TremPak basically said anything smaller will be noisy, and the box owner didnt want it noisy. Box works very well for his application. Idlewild

2.6ft^3 @ 32Hz (according to JLAudio's math) Fits 93 Civic coupe with out a problem.

I'll say the BL loaded would work out best

thats what the bottom portion of my trunk looks like now. i'm just wondering if i did up the wheel wells and around the fenders to maximize the enclosure size, how much it will affect things

Car: 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R SpecV Electrical: Stock with 1 Optima Yellow Top Amps: Kicker KX1200.1 (x2) Subs: Kicker 04S10L7D4 Box: 4.5^ft3 Sealed Mic: TL Tone: 40Hz Score: 146.3dB Sealed Legal (not bad for a daily driver) Hopefully changing it up this year, and getting much louder. We'll have to see how the B-Day works out

Could someone please explain to me about this "outlaw" measurement? And any of the funky other ones. I understand sealed @ the dash, cuz really thats the only way I do it. And TL all the way for me as well, I think I'm the only installer at a FutureShop to have one.

I have no doubt that it'll be loud a pair of BTL15's on 2 SAZ-3000d's its not really a comp car, more of a loud daily driver The kicker stuff just isnt cutting it anymore, and I need a change anyways.

How does any of this really apply to my question? Cuz I really dont think it does. I just wanted to know how important the shape of the enclosure was to the performance of a sub. I always thought that so long as the enclosure had the correct airspace it would be ok.

someone is selling a pair of 15's on canadiancaraudio

Although IB is a great thing, isnt going to work for me. Woven cloth sucks for going around curves if you're using a heavy enough cloth to build up any thickness. Trying to do the whole thing inside the trunk will be VERY difficult because at some point you have to enclose it meaning that you have to finish working from inside the sub cutouts. Sanding it will be a real turd, and it will have to be perfectly smmoth to get a carbon fiber finish layer on it. Not to mention that if you want the carbon fiber layer to come out right, you have to vacuum bag it which can't be done inside the trunk. It would look cool but it would be basically impossible to pull off. I've worked with all sorts of composites, and if done propperly you dont have to vacuum bag. You'll have to sand it like a mofo, but it can still come out looking very good.

I just want to use as much space in my trunk as I can. I think it'll be interesting to get a 6-8ft^3 into my sentra. I was going to use the spare tire well for the batteries (3-4) and then use the sides and back of the trunk for the sub enclosures. Then find a home for the amps. I have it all pictured in my head, and its far too difficult to explain it. this is how it currently sits (sort of, its getting re-done) the box is 5ft^3ish sealed, box doesnt go all the way to the outside edges its a drop in, its only 36" wide. I'll be able to get a bunch more if I utilize the sides of the trunk. its so nice being an installer and not having time to finish your own car. I'm planning on doing fibreglass woven fiber for the shape and structure, then either a full carbon or a carbon kevlar weave as the top finish layer. should be good right?

Meh, dont worry, it'll just buff right out. Dude that sux, I try at all costs to pick stuff up. But this time around stuff is going to be delivered. I'm going to be opening everything up with the delivery guy standing right there before I sign anything I dont care how much of a hurry he's in. What delivery service was used? Just so I know for reference.

My baby gave me an AWESOME father's day present. Got home from the meet rubbed Brenda's baby bump and I felt a light little kick from the baby. What a feeling. You dad's know what I'm talking about. You other guys have no idea what I'm talking about, you'll find out one day. Oh and Happy Father's day to all the dads!

Ya Alpine's CDA-9886 is a sweet deck. I have one in my DD/winter beater. Also give you the ability to go active and use the PXA-H701 later on should you choose. Its also right in you budget range.

Email sent to MeanGreen and HO Thanks for the help Will I need mroe yellow tops than say 4 of the HC2400 from Kinetic? I do get a deal on the Kinetik batteries, but 4 of them will cost me ~$1200 for the HC2400 Where as 1 or 2 more Yellow Tops will be at most $500

How safe is it if I was to run pair of BTL15D2's @ 0.5ohm with music? I'm only able to buy one amp at the moment. I will be getting another as soon as I can, then I'll strap them @ 2ohm I dont know much about calculating imp. rise or anything like that, nor do I have the tools. This is honestly the largest system that I've ever done. thanks. I will be doing electrical as well support the planned power. H/O alt if and when I can find one 3 or 4 Kinetik hc2000

SO I have been reading. Powermaster = Nothing for my car EA = MIA, waiting to hear back Iraggi = 260amp @ $479+shipping to Canda Ohio Gen = Need to call still Stinger = Nothing Who am I missing? Is it at all possible to have one custom made? I do have a dead alt sitting at home in the garage, collecting dust Oh, and could I do Optima Yellow tops? As I already have 3 kicking around (2 in the Sentra and one in the winter beater) Or are the Kinetik or Powermaster the way to go.

So how much battery? I was hoping no more than 5 (including the one under the hood) The system will most likely not see full tilt for very long. How much drop is too much? I know with my Kicker stuff, I MAYBE lost 1.5volts full tilt. The Alt is from Iraggi. I am going to call Ohio Generagtor though, just can call that far from work. LIke I said this is by FAR the LARGEST system I have ever done. Either for my self or for a customer, or friend. So all the input is very valuable to me

So I've spent the last day calling around. The largest HO alt I can currently get my hands on is 260amps and is close to $500 (not that price is of concern, its important but other things have priority) Will that suffice?