SpeakerBoy

So i got the wood, my uncle has a router, just down the street. Before we cut out the piece for the port, what would a 2" piece of pvc put me at tuning wise? The box is 6"x9.5"x12" made from .5" mdf. I have two feet of pipe, so i can make two ports. My goal is around 30-34hz. Where would these lengths put me at: 8" = ? 10" = ? 12" = ? 18" = ? Or just throw me a round port calc. WinISD gives me lengths like 300" or more, I can't figure out why.

Search for Hoffman's Iron Law on here and read the sticky. It answers your question very directly. *if you don't understand how it applies, ask and I'll help but show me you tried in your question Alright let me try to write this out; Because i have a small enclosure+little power, i lose efficiency. If i had a big enclosure, (which wouldnt fit) with same everything, i would have efficiency, but i don't have a box that will fit. The only option i have over this, is one or two small batteries (Are AGM batteries spill proof? If so, I would choose them.) plus a stronger amp. I was thinking a 50.4 or a RF200.2 (I would prefer to try a 50.4, i had a RF200.2, and it was very power-hungry). That would let me have a small box, more power, and in turn, a little more low end. Or..... What are a few low to medium power 8" woofers i could run in a super small ported box, or more likely, sealed? Mounting depth would have to be no more than 5" The amp would either be a 50.4 or maybe a 125.2 My current dimensions are 14"x6"x9.5" external, with .5" mdf

Are there really any small woofers, primarily 6.5" woofers, that are good for a low tuning (Efficiency instead of high excursion+power). I am still considering the TB 6.5" high Xmax woofer. But if something more efficient is out there, i'd like to compare. I don't really know where to start. I googled it, but got a bunch of garbage (pyramid and pyle pro ads).

I would be a little more respectful than that...

I recently bought a motorcycle battery, to power a small kenwood 4ch amp. It is rated for 12v/160ca/12aH What is a decent budget charger? I was looking at the Kinetic Three-stage, but i don't have $109 Could i use a regular car charger on the 2amp charge setting?

I think I know someone with an O-scope. Test load, like having speakers connected?

Cool. I'd buy it.

Congratulations!

I think you get a little bonus with currency difference Do you wire the batteries together to charge multiples?

I do believe that is correct. The knob should be set at max when adjusting gain, so that maximum output is acheived at 100% on the knob. Edit: I was referring to a gain knob

The fuse rating will tell you absolutely nothing about the power output of the amplifier. Some people incorrectly try to use it as a basis for determining power output. But it's really meaningless. The only true way to know the actual power output is to bench test the amplifier. Can i test with a DMM?

I don't have the manual, bought it used. Never mind.

Ahhh sweet. Do you have a pic, just for curiosity? I am borrowing a 2amp charger for a few weeks form a friend, but it's ollllld. A smart charger would be perfect for overnighters.

Can you describe it? I can't go on Youtube til i get home. My school blocked Photobucket....Ridiculous....

Preliminary testing with my premade bose box, with modified port, sounds decent. It's certainly good enough for the kids at school. Port's too small, but i am building mine in a few days.

If you still have it after the holidays, I might have to get that (Christmas money ) Does it have a 1amp, 1.5amp, or at least a 2amp charge rate? My battery manual says 1amp is best, and NOT to charge at over 2amp

He you implying that batteries by themselves send musical power to the subs?

I just downloaded WinISD and am trying to figure out what length i need for my port, but my driver is not listed, and i don't know the t/s parameters Driver is a bose 201 6.5" its fairly old, early or mid 90's. External dimensions are 6"x9.5"x12" using 1/2" mdf. port will be 2" pvc pipe, and the port will be external.

I am just trying to get the best lowend i can out of a 6.5". No world records, but something that is decent. I was noobish when i built the first two, and destroyed them by clipping and beating on them. I want a clean sound, down to at least 35hz. I have 12v/160ca/12ah of power to work with and i might even double that. I need to take my battery to autozone, for them to put the acid in it (i have never done it before). I am going to pick up a jigsaw blade soon, to cut the baffle, and port hole. Then i can screw, clamp and glue. if i have ~.35cuft with 12 inches of 2" port what should that come out to? If i lined the box with polyfill, as opposed to stuffing, would it benefit me to do so?

Well i got most of it sorted out, but my port length is coming out to be really long; i think it was fifty something inches and when i change a few things, it jumps between that, and a few hundred inches. I am using 2"pvc, and i have 2ft of it, but i can use maybe 4" to the elbow and 6" sideways for a total of 10". i might be able to pull off a little more with another elbow. Why doesnt Polyfill work in a vented box? I've seen it done, but never questioned it.

This is just something i have been wondering since i found out how a ported box works. I know that IB separates the front wave from the back. And I know that a port acts somewhat like another speaker above and at tuning. But what if you were to build a ported box, and seal off the port from the front wave entirely. like, the woofers face forward, and the port faces the trunk but you seal off the baffle from the trunk entirely. I googled it, but came up with nothing.

I though t/s affected the overall. What i am specifically looking for is the length of the port i need for a given tuning, i already have the peices cut to make the box, so dimensions are set.

Sorry, i was kinda vague. I'll read a bit before i ask next time.