SpeakerBoy

My front and rears are paralleled at 2ohm stereo. My highpass is set at 100. I don't think they sound any better with it set lower. No change in sound at listening volumes. Listening volume is kinda high, my noise floor is FUCKED

All that's installed right now is pawn shop pickings, other than the btl Alpine component 6.5's (the old blue ones), orion xtr coaxials 6.5's, a Dual 2ch amp for the highs (only better than nothing) My head unit is a Sony XAV-63. I can set time alignment and listening posistion within the vehicle. I have a seven band EQ, and it has xovers built in at 60/80/100/120/full for the doors. I can cross the sub as high as 100. Amp for the woofer is a crunch powerzone 1500. As you can see, the BTL is only the first step in the right direction M5, it sounds like my litte dual amp is a mouse lifting a fat man, it can't handle high listening levels, hell its only rated for. 75/2 @ 2ohms and I doubt it does that. Was thinking about a crescendo amp. Really have no clue about mids and highs. As a little kid developed this hardon about big woofers and forgot the rest of the spectrum >.<

Sounds leagues different than any woofer i've ever owned. Just better and better. Can wait for full power. So clear. Dumped my box full of poly, measured and calculated 6 lbs. sounds so clean

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

Will post back after we get it in there.

Challenge accepted

He offered me a ten cubic foot box tuned at 31, but it has cutouts for two eighteens; we are going to plug one and shoehorn it in; it's one inch too wide. Should I adjust the port size? I'm only feeding it 750 @ 1ohm for now, and by the time I get a new amp i'll redesign a box. I'll get the specs later today on the dual box.

I will be using a hifonics brx 2000.1

Generally the feeling around here is if you're guessing, you don't need a fourth order bandpass. Two zcons? Not enough? How much power are you running? Sealed can put out if space is adequate, is your box big enough to choke off sound, being rear firing?

JBL A6000 gti SAZ-3000D RF-4000BD Zed Draconia /drool/

Happy birfday yo xD

From the title I thought you meant THX was getting a subforum lol Yeah, SSA rocks.

Links for mobile please?

Off topic, but nice username OP

Crescendo 3500D is warrantied at .5ohm; much harsher on electrical though.

With a box, you're saying 425 is a bad deal? Man, weren't they like 500 new, woofer alone?

Lol damn.

My choices are a Fi ufo BTL 18D2 for 250 shipped, or a dc level 6 18 with enclosure, for 800. Is the dc a good value? I simply want loud as fuck. Which would you choose, and why? I don't know which is better for what i'm looking for; obscene low end. I am focusing on these two, because they are both purchases from friends, trying to help them out, as well as help my sound situation

Depends on what sort of smoke is in the pipe or if it is just wavesWas that a sonic drug reference combo?

No Jon, you're fine I bite peoples heads off over audio sober lol

Am I chasing a pipedream wanting a mid twenties demo machine?

I capped audible to emphasize; the note is there, but not prominent

I don't think people rate based on logic just on how they personally feel. Pretty stupid imo. It's not a dc vs fi thread. Just a which is a better deal thread. How do those ethos handle the mid twenties jon? well... i know your a little green to this... so ill try to shoot ya straight.... im tuned low... 29.. .. but alot more goes into that factor.. my car will respond differently to the same box, then it would in your blazer or what ever.. wave length loading.. so forth all come into play.... also you have to remember that im WAY over powering these subs...,. big time... and they still kill the lows.. but because im over powering them so much, they dont play well UNDER tuning .. i mean dont get me wrong.. they play low like a boss... and my low i mean i play 30 hz with athority with as much power and im pushing... keep in mind i have a 7K on 2 1800 RMS subs..... if you run the rated power on the subs and tune the box at 25 hz it will be pronominal but with all that said.. i dont think you truly understand what you would be biting off if you built such a stereo..... let me tell you the problems you will run into... first off .. every one is on the bandwagon about being low.. low low low low..... lol well let me tell you ... if you tune low the first problem you will run into is that you will have a HELL OF A HARD TIME finding music that plays well. most custom slowed music is 28-30 hz, ... nothing lower. .. the only things lower honestly will be classical music with organs, and movies... both of those options play down into the teens... for a reason.. you feel it not hear it... honestly i doubt you have ever heard true lows.... most people have not... they think they have.. but they have not.. it pisses alot of people off but its a fact tuning at 33 hz is a safe place.. gives you best of both worlds IMO. and if you run the ethos you will be happy .. i promise you .... im doing something against the grain with the ethos for YOUR and others benefit im truly putting them thru the ropes. they are mode for lows. my advice to you is that of an experienced user.. follow it or dont .. i wont be mad I'll admit my question was blankly specific, I love showing off with the rare songs that have a 25 or 27hz note; and i've never owned a system that made it seem AUDIBLE it was more of a perception(?) I was on that kick for a while about building a box tuned to 26hz, but after doing it with my tens, yes, they get fuckin' floppy on most music. I want to be able to dig down, but not in exchange for mud music. I am trying to come up with a doable plan of action, lots of surface area on a modest amount of power to try to help get down; I drool over an NS-1, but I can't stomach the price tag; it's as much as my truck O.O I've heard SSA and DSS dig holes in the bottom octave, but other than visually built boxes (look at what they came in, add poly, and rebuild with an extra few cubes) i've never sat down, done the math. and designed a box. Upper frequencies aren't in toooo much danger, I have my subs crossed at 50hz, and am looking around town to find someone to help me with door panels for 8's or 10's if i'm feeling frisky. Is there any way to account for wave loading effects in a vehicle without a physics degree?

I don't think people rate based on logic just on how they personally feel. Pretty stupid imo. It's not a dc vs fi thread. Just a which is a better deal thread. How do those ethos handle the mid twenties jon?

Well, since he's uncomfortable with the time delay for the money transfer, he's going to drive the four hours to deliver it sometime this winter. When they make ethos 18's i'll snatch one. I am a sucker for the bottom octave; anything that dominates in the 20-40hz range is an option to me.