SpeakerBoy

Chopped and screwed, S.L.A.B.-ed, slowed, decaf; that's my flavor.

We can answer this in the other thread

I'd be content with only Fi woofers from here on out Box design will overrule smaller things like that; so utilize the available space wisely. For 5 cubes net you might want to consider tens, or sealed twelves. You could also save some money with a single fifteen in that space.

Not enough to pass it up. I have an obsession with tuning lower and lower to get them notes out; my BTL has everything (loaded, so with cooling included), and it makes every other woofer I've owned tap out. My twelves were tuned lower, but this monster didn't get the memo.

I'd pick the Q's but that's just me. It's the woofer I want most from Fi, but I adore my BTL. Fi and AA are both awesome, so you won't go wrong. Hopefully some owners of those subs will chime in. And lol fi and are like, nottttt really a different company lol. All the same people s

Oh, I gotcha.Product videos ARE sexy though lol

when you're chasing 1/4 a db on the meter may be. Makes sense at least that it's not like oh shit that dowel cost me 8dB lol. And I don't think i'm ocd enough to overdeaden a whole vehicle

Is there a such thing as over deadening? (As in detrimental not just throwing twelves layers on a single spot lol) Just curious. Back in the day I read here that someone lost spl from over bracing their boxes and it never made sense to me. Wondering.

Deadening frightens me lol. Disassembly is easy, but man putting it all back in and finding a handful of screws makes me so so so mad o_o The floor and roof are my worries. Applying deadener not so much, but I have had absolutely dismal luck with putting panels back on. It ALWAYS feels fucked up compared to the before even with all the connectors in place. Does anyone bother to replace their clips when they disassemble?

Was wondering if it was logical to dedicate my rear doors to some serious midbass action. I never lower my rear windows, so moving parts or removing shit from inside isn't an issue. I was thinking some pods made to hold a pair of eights or at ten in each rear door, with mids and highs in the front like normal. I don't know exactly how midbass works.front to rear locatable? Fuck my grammar by the way, been having problems with insomnia and am getting loopy. All these ideas I have, man, i'm guessing. Owning a nice woofer and stalking an audio forum through out highschool does not make you a pro lol You guys said imaging gets hard at high SPL levels so, would this be an acceptable compromise/solution?

Thank you kind sir

The title should probably say front stage planning...lol. Posted in the wrong thread of mine; but my budget is vaguely $500 for speakers and $500 for amps, however being worth what i'm paying is far more valuable than saving a few bucks. I am not sure what I want, other than better. I know midbass is an area I was seveverly lacking in though.

Oh god I hate posting from my phone. There is a thread for my front stage already. My dumb ass just forgot about it. Got sad and stopped posting for a while when I lost my truck. if you want to resurrect that thread for front stage stuff i'll delete my post and put it over there. Will do

Whoa

Oh god I hate posting from my phone. There is a thread for my front stage already. My dumb ass just forgot about it. Got sad and stopped posting for a while when I lost my truck.

There's no total budget, it's an ongoing thing; I mean, don't link me a set of thousand dollar tweeters I'd say a $500 for speakers, $500 on amps, and as much deadening as it takes. this is going to be the hard part, the rest of this year is dedicated to the front stage since all the woofer needs is a prettier box. Its far more important that its worth the money than the price tag be in a certain range

I still wouldn't run 5k on two batteries, though that's better than just two average lead acid cells. I'm a fan of overkill, but it seems like you're trying to force it. Why don't you sit down and calculate total current draw then post back. You may even answer your own question. That would be a 370a, or a 400a alt correct?

Don't waste your money like that Not worth the tag? I just read some reviews. I'm not too sure about the pricing between the series', and which line i'd choose. Alternatives? Something that would work well in a high output two way is what i'm after, but I don't want just loud. I'm tired of having just blaring, tinny scratchy bullshit ass sound. I am front stage retarded.

" I still love music in a car, but I accept the default system in much the same way a teenager accepts the sound of an MP3 player to fill the void of empty silence." That last line broke my heart

Keeping the BTL, and going to aim for a set of Hybrids in the fronts, but i'll just throw some bullshit speakers that will make noise in for now, I don't have nearly enough to throw into a frontstage right now, court costs went through the roof.

My doors sounded a little harsh on the vocals, kinda sharp (is bright the word?). I like warm better too.

I start low and slowly work up, as well as having the heat full tilt. I noticed my subs weren't as loud, but they sounded much tighter than usual, I assumed they were frozen.

Or am I thinking the type x...wound on the inside and outside of the former...

Doesn't alpine have a square coiled woofer or mid? Fuck mornings though, i'm probably wrong lol

You'll probably want more than that. For 5k RMS? No. I wouldn't try to run 5k on stock with only two batteries and nothing else backing it. A HO alternator, at the least to accompany probably another large battery or two as well. I've never dealt first hand with a system that needed wild electrical backing before, so someone else can elaborate. All mine have been <2kw