SpeakerBoy

Several of them

Do people read anymore? Or just try to prove anyone else wrong no matter the cost? What 95Honda is saying is more copper, more power transfer. Where you cram the wire is irrelevant. So one terminal with two runs crammed or two terminals with one each. You can't even hear a hundred watt difference in 3krms

5krms with only a HO and under hood batteries? My friend is planning on getting a similar truck next winter. That's awesome news xD

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4286673028.html I'm looking at amps that are being sold locally, and was wondering if this is a true 2k rms. If so, it's a steal for 160

Amphere Audio? The 3800.1 looks nice

Preferably <$650-750 for something I won't be replacing in a year or two, something that will last if treated properly. Something stout, can handle weather (not being beat on in weather, but handle midwest weather, freezing, hot summers). Something that i'm not scared to let loose on sometimes.2kw-4kw. I reallllllly want a 4000bd but like I need to have money at some point in the rest of my life, so that one is a no go.

Just my opinion but I wouldn't use a stetsom If it was free. I had problems with mine from day one and their service is bad!!!I would buy crescendo any day over stetsom. Dammit Used bc3500 it is. No zed, no stet, Sundown is too rich for me or I'd snatch an old 3000D.

It's only 220 on cl Dunno. Don't want to regret getting it when I'm staring at crescendos and stetsoms. Awful small for 3krms, that stetsom.... Any point to trying to find 2500 @ 4ohm? Stress on electrical saved enough to matter at all?

Zx1500.1

Awwww... Salty...

Can you strap the kickers?

Theres some Kicker 1500.1's for under three hundred and a 2500 for like 350

I was only wondering because it was still available, it's been sold lol.

Nice clear and concise. Thank you

I have been considering trading up the BTL, as in, the woofer, and a chunk of $$$ for a LMS Ultra 18. I'm only considering on the grounds that it's said to be more accurate down low, much smaller enclosure requirements, and well, it's my dream subwoofer. However, I am not so in love with the woofer, that i'll piss away $450 on a trade up for looks alone. Has anyone used both woofers in an optimal alignment? There's nothing wrong with my BTL, but I want to pick a woofer and stick with it. I'm sick of the changing equipment and replacing things. So, while i'm in a position, financially, to do so, I thought I would ask for your guys' opinions. I'm after SQ, but with some aggression to it. I guess i'm greedy. If it's even relevant to the question, power will be a pair of Zed Minotaurs. Either will sit in it's optimal enclosure size, a little on the large side, with a removeable port; so I can mess with either after it's said and done. I understand how many variables there are, so I'm really just asking anyone who has personally used both woofers.

I just assumed you were giving me shit. It's hard to tell on here sometimes.

That's some low efficiency sarcasm I sense, isn't it

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/7168-a-technical-understanding-of-polyfill/i guess it could get into the motor or something, maybe just reverse mount the sub if you're worried. You could also try fiberglass insulation stapled to the inside of the box. I know how it works, that's why I went out and bought like ten pounds of it lol.I am just unsure of the tricks of using it; I had six pounds in there (forgot how much there was at first, it was all clumped together, and i've had it sitting for a while) , and it sounded the same if not quieter, then took two pounds out and it's noticeably louder around the middle of it's bandwidth. It's hard to get an idea of how it's doing by testing it out of vehicle. My friend had a Bravada we were going to use for testing, but it just shit bricks about an hour ago, and from what he tells me, they think they locked the block up. (how the fuck?)

For comps, I'd have to lean towards efficiency. But man would I love to run a 159.9 at like, 25hz

I understand this, but in an environment where cabin gain plays a huge role in low frequency extension, is it necessary to reach lower than 30 hz for most music? I mean, not to everyone. Some people are content with prefab porteds, and that kind of tuning, even a little lower would probably be great for a pro driver. But my flavor is slowed, so I appreciate the <40hz violence

He said only seven thousand lol

People are speechless when you have a much louder, better sounding system with one quarter, or less, power than them. It's a wonderful feeling

Why was it needed for a particular design not for others? Does a wedge design induce more rock because of the angle?

Seems to me, it's because the lower you go, the more displacement is needed. Pro woofers are far more efficient, but even high displacement pro drivers don't have enough throw to keep up down low (ie, LMS 5150 vs the Ultra, one is much stronger 40+ and one is much stronger <40). My uneducated $0.02

I have a ten band EQ.The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music That is only 2 bands where you need them to figure things out. Obviously yours follow 1/3 octaves which simulate your hearing, but isn't narrow band enough. Wouldn't 31, 63, 125 be single octave steps? I have a ten band EQ.The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music That is only 2 bands where you need them to figure things out. Obviously yours follow 1/3 octaves which simulate your hearing, but isn't narrow band enough. Wouldn't 31, 63, 125 be single octave steps? Absolutely. His doesn't follow 1/3 and even that wouldn't be enough. Haven't seen anything in the car audio world but 1, 1/2, and 1/3 octave EQ's. Do they even exist?Maybe a 30 band? nah that's a 1/3....