SpeakerBoy

Noted, thank you =]Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25 MDF and cheap bits can be a dangerous combination. Be careful.Tried them out this afternoon, looks like they aren't as sharp as I thought. But $25 is the cost of some bits, let alone routers lol

Noted, thank you =] Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25

Partly why I love audio is because it requires patience and practice to attain a good result, rushing is useless. I'm a very impatient, anxious, haphazard person by nature. For the first time I'm taking my time with a project, and I'm not mad lol. It's worth the days or weeks extra, the final result is much, much longer lasting.

My old gasket is all raggedy and ugly, where could I order a new one from?

No doubt. It's win win, saves me money, and saves weight on the enclosure.All thread is expensive o.o

I suppose I should have said, where to go on the site to order one, I'm willing to bet Fi carries gaskets since they sell everything else lol. All I see is recone materials and woofers. Should I just email them for something small like this?

Whoa o.o I had actually thought of using 2x4's from the the center of each panel and then securing them together where they meet in the center with Titebond and a bolt or two. I should have a 2'x 4' sheet left over, I can use that for bracing.

It's a bit more than your budget, but Icon or Ethos would kill

It won't be a severe loss im output, but the lower you tune the less output higher up

What twelves did he trade? The BTL is a monster =] Try an eight inch aero tuned to 28hz

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bk-black-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-717 Will these be strong enough?

Excellent. Pickin up panels this afternoon, going over the dimensions tonight and building this weekend =]

95Honda, are you saying I can skip doubling the walls since I'm going to be bracing all sides? Not sure if I'm doing dowels or alltread, but I was thinking two rods each side, front to back, top to bottom, side to side, as close to center of each panel as I can get without touching the motor lol

Thinking a square removable below the sub =] I'm installing winisd, I just got a computer this weekend, what exactly am I looking for on a graph? Edit: appears it's Windows only, What can I use for an old ibook G3? I got it pulled up in winisd on my friends laptop, There's less of a bump around 25-30 but the rolloff is smoother

I'm looking for plenty of volume 25-60hz but the ability to be nice and flat when I turn the bass down to match the towers

Make sure the spikes can handle the weight. Had problems with the Dayton ones on my HT boxWould two per corner make a difference or should I look at more expensive spikes?

Thank you =]

I am updating all the drivers in my towers, my crossovers died so I went with what I could afford, some parts express 800hz/5000hz three way crossovers. I have a basic active crossover for the towers so they'll only need to reach down to 60-80hz at most, the BTL reaches high enough to meet them. Just replaced the dead five inch mids with sealed back GRS mids which sound far better than the price tag suggested. With that in mind, i'm planning on replacing the flimsy plastic coned 10" midbass drivers, and am not sure what to get. I was eyeing up a pair of selenium tens, as I want it to sound clean and clear, but I also would like to be able to get loud. http://www.parts-express.com/selenium-10pw3-slf-10-driver--264-332 Those are what look nice to me, but since I'm not sure what to look for specs wise, could I get a few suggestions? I'm looking for something that can get real rough and gritty for dubstep or metal, but still be smooth and level for easier musics. My cabinets are 2.25cu and I have plugs for them, and several different ports between 30hz and 80hz. My budget is sixty per driver or less, not including shipping. I have about 100rms per channel for the time being.

That is correct, i have crossover points with no overlap. I was not aware that there would still be cancellation if the same speakers at the same size were playing the same frequency. You want to underlap your crossover points. They aren't a digital cutoff, it's 6/12/18/24 db an octave. For example, every octave above the point is half as loud. But still being played.

You're arguing with one of the most knowledgeable people on the board. I'd give what he says a try before trying to dispute it. The board is here to learn from, remember

I was thinking take one of my tens and put it in a sealed box, all over the room while I'm at listening position to see how well it would do mounted in various locations.

I have a BTL on 500rms I'm planning on swapping out for a pair of Dayton 18's later on, so being able to utilize every part of my system is something I'm after. Bookmarked that page though, I'm super hungover right now but I like how those kits look.

Been eyeing those for a year or so now, how are they output wise?

I'm okay with this. Not opposed to going down a different path if it means better results. Do you have any recommendations or brands to look out for used? My budget doesn't include shipping, and if the gains are significant, I don't mind spending slightly more, but three or four hundred is a lot to me right now. I just want it to be wisely spent.