SpeakerBoy

I was interested in doing a three way in my next vehicle because I am getting the hang of my two way and the only real complaint I have is overall output and midbass impact. I wanted to do a dayton reference 10 at my hip, reference 6.5 forward in the door and a dayton silk dome on the dash. I'm going to pick up a ppi 900.4 and two taramps 250x4's because they were tiny and I loved mine (well mostly, the knobs are tacky) and a pair of mini dsp's. Sticking with a single eighteen on 1500rms until I finish my front stage, I'm okay with lowend til I get more musical up front. It just seems like a great way to use the doorspace, and looks clean to me.

Epsoidis or ellipsoidos or something like that I had it bookmarked but I guess it was on my android. It was at the very least an interesting read up (at least to me) about how angling the different drivers helped improve the stage in the oem three way. midbass fired at the hip, midrange forward in the door slightly angled, and the tweeter at the a pillar angled slightly more Billy Jack, find it on Google and link me if you can, I tried for two hours and ran out of keywords to try.

Does anyone know the name of the three way system design employed by volkswagen with the midbass at your hip, the mid at the front of the door and the tweets in the pillar? Ellipsoidos or something, I lost my bookmark to the write up and I'm clueless as to where I found it

Also, does sub orientation work the same with passive radiators since both faces have significant radiating area, if I did radiators up sub back in an suv would that compromise response versus sub up radiators back?

Is there any correct port orientation in an suv for sub up/port back such as sub left side up, port passenger side back or sub passenger side up port drivers side back? I'm building a new box when taxes come in and I'd like to get the most out of the design. My current box is sub up port firing to the side of the vehicle on the passenger side partially obscured by the wheel hump; I feel like this affects response a bit. In particular, would I lose anything with the sub centered in the box? I think that orientation looks the best.

You will NOT hear a difference from 1500w to 2000w. My box for my Fi 18 is 9.5cu@27hz and I'm very content with it on 1500rms. My next upgrade is going to be 7k rms in a smaller enclosure. It takes a significant amount of power to hear a difference. In a perfect world, DOUBLE the power is +3db which is just enough to be able to even notice. You'd need 3k+ to do that. Build a new box, focus on a great huge ass port with decent enclosure volume and that'll tell you whether it's time for a system upgrade or not. Oh and, don't use the term box rise. It doesn't mean what you may think it does and isn't really relevant in this situation. You're playing music, every note is going to fluctuate impedance. If you were building a burp box for one frequency it'd be slightly more relevant to measure.

fuckin' awesome

Subs don't smoke coils unwise users do.

I was going to use a dayton amt pro, which is a massive amt that digs pretty low for a tweet. Like 800hz I was gonna try 1k to begin with. I could try a three way once I get more processing power but as of right now I'm limited to two way. Look, if I can get punch you in the chest midbass with less than twelves, I'm all for it, saving the legroom and all. Are you suggesting a ported ten or something of that nature? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-amtpro-4-air-motion-transformer-tweeter-4-ohm--275-094

I have family in Michigan, what part is he in?

I'm fine with continuing to shop for tweeters, the big point is the 12's. I know I can get tweeters that satisfy my output goal, but midbass is what I'm fiending for. The AMT pro plays down to like 1k though, that's not a low enough xover point?

Bump

Divide by 1728 to get cubic feet from cubic inches

What I want for my doors is beyond my fabrication capabilities, so I'm considering looking for a fabricator in the chicagoland area to do them up for me. I was hoping you guys could give me an idea of what to expect it to cost, as well as throw me some names of reputable shops. I'm going to have them put 12's in my doors. I'm going to try a two way with the Dayton AMT-Pro's. I'm not opposed to working with someone from the board either! I sent a few emails to places I found on Google, but not many reviews to be seen. Thanks guys.

Two motors lets you use a smaller box than one motor. Go with the fifteen in an optimal enclosure and call it a day. You're not sounding like you're willing to go the extra mile to trunk an eighteen. You literally have the dimensions at hand to calculate box size, why did you post here instead of just multiplying the dimensions and dividing by 1,728 The SSA Tech team is a band of the most helpful posters, it's not a job title. They are the boards most knowledgeable and trustworthy posters. Wouldn't it be easier for you to learn this basic calculation so you know how to double check your builders work to make sure you really got what you paid for. Even if your builder does all the work for you, still no reason to ask that question here. You couldve done (32x32x18)/1728 and had your answer in much less time than it took to post that. When trunking a large woofer, you need to take into account giving the woofer enough space to breathe in the trunk so, space between the cone and trunk lid. For an 18, something like 6-9" Decide your goals first, don't just buy something to say you have it.