InfinitePeace

Damn, that's a small box. I was pretty set on getting a pair of Q's. Can anyone that is NOT biased convince me that I should get Mag's instead... but that's if the new ones will be out in the very near future....

If this was mentioned, I apologize. I read the whole thread but I missed it if it was there... The 1 cube that is recommended for this woofer, is that before or after displacement?

Eh, well see.. because of the design of my trunk, I'm going to want the extra output of the 12's. I'm going to make them work somehow, just was curious if anyone had any creative ideas that I hadn't thought of. Late last night I actually was wondering if there was enough room to maybe remove the false wall and fabricate an amp rack over the fuel tank. I just wonder if it's safe to put electronic equipment that close to a fuel tank, though if anything serious ever did happen I don't know that it being there or a foot away would really matter, plus it would be separated by a thick piece of mdf. Dunno... if there's enough room it could be a really good idea and put them out of the way.

Ya, the shop that did my alternator said they would make it fit one way or another, as long as it wasn't taller than my current battery it for sure would not be an issue. It's all coming together now. Too bad while they were in there they found that power steering problem was worse than I thought. There goes another grand...

The dimensions are ALMOST Identical, the Powermaster being fractions of an inch smaller on each side. Theres already a strap going over it, my question is, is that okay, with that same strap there holing down a slightly smaller battery, should I still be okay?

I posted this on another forum and just wanted to repost it here to add to this discussion. I bought a 180a from Ohio General and they told me more than once, upgrade to the largest size of cable that you can for everything more or less EXCEPT the Alt to Batt Pos. They told me, which I confirmed multiple times, on a short run, 4awg (at least for upwards of 200a) is plenty and ideal; they don't recommend larger than that in that location because the size of the post on the alternator is too small to bind to the larger wire; ergo because of the size difference, the post on the alt heats up too much and can overheat it. That was their recommendation and I'm going to have the shop that is doing it for me talk to them and confirm with a detailed description of my specific engine. The other interesting thing they said was do NOT fuse that wire. I confirmed this as well, DO NOT fuse this wire because if for some reason it does indeed blow, the alternator will no longer see the battery and think that it's dead, so it will kick into high gear and stay that way until it burns up because it will never see that battery again until you've changed that fuse, thus leaving you with a dead battery and a burnt out alternator.

It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around.

If that is truly the case then it's virtually no contest given that the powermaster is also 80-100 cheaper, and you're saying it will give me a bit more power? Sounds like a win-win... but am I right with the dimension assumptions, the powermaster is a hair smaller in each dimension, that won't be a problem will it?

I have never tried that with a ported box. . .Bandpass box, but not ported. Seems like that would cause a heavy emphasis at the port tuning frequency in the cabin of the car. Anyone actually ported a standard vented box through a rear deck? Not saying it won't work, just curious. . . This was also my concern, and I won't have room for a ported box unless I use one speaker. Now again, there will be holes in the rear stage, and if it comes down to it, well make those holes bigger and just cover them in one giant mesh or vent if need be. I'm hoping that 2 4' holes and a 10" hole (or at least the but out diameters for said speaker sizes) will be enough. Plus I don't know much about bandpass, and bandpass enclosure recommendations weren't even covered in the sticky; I want the cleanest possible sound, I'm more concerned with what the smallest sealed box size I can use for a 12 (or two in a single chamber) would be for me to be happy, or what do I can for the 3" or so increase by shooting for about 1.1-1.2 after disp?

I just recieved mine from Ohio Generator, they have been very helpful, I have an SC400, granted you've got a different animal there, but someone has to be able to work out something for you. Check http://www.h-o-alternators.com/ also, they quoted me first, and were a little more expensive, but they may be able to help AT ALL if the others cant.

I appreciate the insight, however I don't want to do more than one battery, as the trunk will be cramped enough as it is. That's why I'm going to buy the best battery I can for the front... so far the Powermaster 2400 appears to be almost a perfect fit which is what I was asking. Now someone is suggesting Kinetik and I'd just like to know what makes one of these "Car Audio" batteries better than another? Stinger makes some too... whats different about those?

Which Kinetik and why?

Tell me why? Everyone said for SQ the Q's are where it's at. So, that's what I want. Right? It doesn't have to be ridiculous loud, but I do want to hear it. Not at the cost of SQ though.

Wow.. not one idea? I see the Fi reps post here all the time. Must I be running 15 subs to pique some interest? Really I'd just like to know what's the smallest box I can run and be happy.. site says .8 is the lowest without displacement, I'd just like to know what the extra .3 per driver gets me if I give it to them, as someone recommended 1.1-1.2? Sealed of course...

Okay. I haven't had time to sit down and measure what's actually under the hood, but provided this information is accurate, interstate recommends this battery for my car; http://www.interstatebatteries.com/estore/...nk%7C1&js=1 Length: 11 inches Width: 6.88 inches Height: 8.75 inches So, if that information is accurate, than the D2400 would be almost a perfect fit at; 10.24" L x 6.65" W x 8.31" H; Would it not? Are there any other size constraints to take into a account? That said, as for Big 3 while I'm in there, is 2awg enough or do I HAVE to use 0; Over such a short distance, would I really see a difference? I have 6 feet of extra 0, but more of the 2 and I just want to know if I'd be okay with 2?