Dave Brooks

It you are going to go purely active, you can dump the passives altogether. That's the beauty of active. YOU get to choose the frequency range. For better or for worse. LOL

I like the two-way idea as well. Mainly because... - It's the easiest to cut your teeth on from an installation standpoint. - It's "upgradeable" because, lets say you do the two way and you like the way it sounds. A little while later, you've taken a deep breath or two from taking the plunge and decide you wanna tackle the three-way. You've already got a tweet and midbass, so you add a dedicated midrange driver to the mix, set new crossover points and BAM! Three way. At it's most basic: If the head unit is controlling crossover and eq. - run RCAs to the amp (one channel for each speaker as stated earlier). - left front=left tweeter - right front=right tweeter - left rear=left midbass - right rear=right midbass - put the amp in full pass mode - hook speakers up to appropriate channels Crossover settings are totally dependent on the speakers you choose and where you locate the tweeter with respect to the midbass. If you are anything like me and my taste, you are going to pound the living crap out of them when a good song comes on, so keep the lower end of the freqs above the norm (maybe start at 100 hz and work down?), pound them good and hard... if they take it and don't cry, lower the midbass a little more until it cries uncle. Raise it a tad. Raise the subs to match the bottom end. Probably gonna be in the 60 Hz range... I'm just guessing though. Same concept on the mid to tweet. Raise the top end of the mid as high as it will go and lower the tweet freqs to match. I'm totally disregarding placement recommendations and stuff like that. Just trying to urge you into taking the plunge. Once you start fiddling with 2-way and 3-way setups... it gets addicting in a hurry.

I'd drive a '60s Econoline any day! Me too! Love those things... It certainly can... I aim to prove it in the SQ lanes this year. I only wish I'd metered it last year before I tore the whole system apart. A paradox though... if I may point it out: For us SQ freaks, when one mentions 150db + on a forum? The first thing we think is subwoofers...LOL

I figure we are all passionate about this stuff. Hell, we woudn't be dumping our lifes savings and every bit of spare time into it if we weren't. Much less posting on this forum. In my opinion, the solution is in knowing what the author of a "help" post really needs or is looking for. I try my hardest to get into their heads before I post advice. I've found that perhaps 90 percent of the folks posting have differing opinions of SQ than I do. So it is imperative to me to try and figure out what it is they are looking for as an end state. Once you know that, you can take it from there. But that said, my advice would differ from anybody else who takes the time to analyze the persons wants. We all have different experience... and a different frame of reference. The key is not to h8te on each other as we express our opinions. My opinion, simply put, is only my opinion. It can only be taken for what it is worth and it's value is measured by the recipient of the advice. In my simple world, it's like a car sale: - "Doods! I am about to buy a new vehicle and I need your advice..." - "I've heard ferrari makes a right decent car..." - "F-that, you don't need no ferrari, they are overpriced for what they are. Get yourself a pinto and throw a Keith Black hemi in it... now that's what you really want..." - "You guys are a buncha morons, what the guy needs is a diesel volkswagon... then he can run it on biofuel and get good mileage too..." - "Whoa Doods! I meant I need a truck... my bad" - "Well that's different, what you want is a Dodge 1-ton dually..." - "You moron, everyone knows that Chevy 3/4 ton trucks are the best..." - "You guys are all idiots. He should get one of them chevy luvs from back in the day... yeah, old school... and drop a V-8 in it..." - "Ford FTMFW!!!" - "Hey guys thanks for the great advice! I found just what I was looking for: http://www.wingsisp.com/emboss/aanew/1964.jpg and it's awesome! What a great forum, thanks again for all the expert advice!! and then there is a collective... "WTF?" LOL

I voted "be nice or be silent". I'd rather be an SQ nerd than an SQ snob. For that reason, I only go to SPL threads to see if I can learn how to eventually get my truck nasty loud in the SPL department. You guys have it down to a science (most of you)... I'll shut up, watch, read, and experiment until I get something that works in my own weird way. I doubt it'll ever be able to compete SPL though simply because I've done so many SQ mods to the truck that it breaks all the SPL rules for competition. Start with subs forward of the b-pillars. I wouldn't want SPL folks slamming us in the SQ side of the house of threads, that's for sure. The two worlds currently do not coexist... ([edit] in the purest sense of the terms)no reason to exacerbate it. Terminology is perhaps the key. The only stupid thing I know of that is a definite is... stupid loud... and I like stupid loud. You guys are of course welcome to call me a moron or any of the other names. I'll just pull out the pen from my pocket protector and kill you with kind words. Been there, done that. Brooksie

I'm a SQ nerd, not a basshead, but... Welcome Jamel! Rawk on...

Welcome Tony

WEll I tried to edit LSQ to be LSQ but it wouldn't take... I'm sure its the beers... wait a minute... LSQ You mean to tell me they've got a filter on S.Q.L that makes it LSQ? Cool!

Sweet! There you have it; SQ and SPL: Two pure forms of competitive sound that nobody in their right minds would want to do on a daily basis. The happy medium? LSQ! It ain't SPL and it ain't SQ, it's just impressive and attainable for everyone. Hows that sound for a definition? LOL I'm so stupid.

No laughter here Shizzzon. You got it set up just right. That sucker is gonna be loud and clear something fierce. Matter of fact, I like your crossover settings! It just won't be "SQ" in the purest sense. Rather, it'll kick butt and sound good doing it I just got you sidetracked with my sandcastle. LOL edit - when I say SQ in the purest sense, I'm talking about staging and imaging along with the tonality and blend you are looking for. Near as I can tell, you are looking for what I call a good blend of music that can keep up with the subs in terms of their loudness. Am I close? Because, holy crap, SQ is a science just like SPL and that gets deep!

Shizzzon, if you get the horns setup correctly (read - experiment with aiming), they will sound like they are up high and centered. In my SQ sandcastle, there wouldn't be any speakers behind the B-pillars. Soooo... If you only had room for whopper woofers in the rear, then the best bet would be to go as big as possible in the door instead. That's purely from an SQ perspective though. If you just wanted to get loud and have killer impact? I'd go big anywhere on the monster midbass drivers, keep'em crossed around 45-150 Hz feed them all the wattage they can handle and watch the panties melt... except I'm an old guy... so the panties would be granny panties... but the principle is the same... LOL edit - Shizzzon, just saw your edit... Yep, you're on the right track. Super fast attack on the 6.5's and the more the merrier for midbass spl purposes. Me? I just like big speakers.

Now that's friggin' funny as hell! <says Brooksie as he builds an elaborate sand castle from his clam...> I'm with M5 on this one, lay in some horns for the midrange and get loud with 'em. And also like M5, I'd also be concerned with your midbass. Only thing I can think of off the top of my head would be to go big on the midbass driver. Maybe use a couple of true woofers (not subs) in the 10 to 12 inch range that can take a serious beating to keep up with the subs and horns. I've used a pair of 10 inch Morel MW1077 woofers with a couple hundred watts on them (@ 8ohms)... they wanted to rip the doors off the hinges. So I'm thinking you could go with a pair of those in eash door? Or something along those lines... I'm going with ten Hybrid Audio L8's in the doors for this season, I haven't got them running yet, but I'll be sure and let you know... LOL

x2 On your musical selection... Who is the artist you were playing?

The felt piece on the back wall is held on by three torx bolts and brackets at the top and a few push connectors along the top as well. Easy to take off and it'll give you an extra few inches of clearance at the bottom. It's a sloppy fit because it is designed to cover the power rear window motor and cabin vents. You don't need to take the side panels off to get it out, just bow it a little in the middle and it'll pull away from the edges. How about this... put a twelve low and outside behind the seat. One on each side, almost to the wall. Taper it toward the top and avoid the cabin vents. I think you may have to play with angling the subs a bit to get the most clearance. both PDX amps will fit easily in the center between the subs... Think that might work? I'm no help on the vid screens in the headrest, sorry.

The fold-out metal things are just a flat storage area if you don't want to put stuff on the seat. You flip the seats up and lay out the metal "tray" to prevent any damage to the seat or floor. I took mine out. Six torx heads and its done. That'll give you room for a few amps. There are a couple of factory holes under the rear seats that'll accept 1/0 easily if you want to run power down the frame-rails... Behind the rear seats, yeah you gotta mount things low... which makes them inaccessible for the most part if you need to fiddle with something. Under the front seats? Forget about it!! LOL about the only thing a guy can store there is old french fries and even those would get smashed when you adjust the seat. Doors must be different than mine, I was able to put some fairly deep oversized 6.5 drivers in mine with only a wee bit o' trimming to the narrow sides of the OEM hole. They flush mounted under the factory panel after that.

Definitely a useful thread for me too... WPA it is

I don't think you "need" to, but if you're under the hood already, you might as well! It never hurts.

Too cool. I always wanted to do something like that back when I was driving(late 80's to mid 90's), but I never owned my own rig and the boss wasn't into letting me rip the dash apart, LOL. Back then, the Freightliners had a wraparound dash that just begged for a system!

Megalo that is about the cleanest looking trunk install I've seen in a long time. My compliments on a well thought out setup. You'd never know it was there! Great job Bro, is the sub still alive after all that glue-lovin'?

Lookin' forward to the pics! I'm interested in seeing the interior differences between my '06 and the '08 models. From your description, sounds like they haven't changed too much. Except for the tweeter part.

Shizzon - I just did a google on them and I'm seeing a lot of 50 dollar offerings... Every tweeter I've ever bought at those prices was bright, loud as hell and painful. That said, I'm thinking you should spring for it! Heck, for the price, it can't hurt too much if it's a failure, right?

I'm thinking that's some stout hackin' skillz. Anybody that has that kinda mad skill is welcome to hack my stuff all day long! LOL

Bandpass = anything between two given frequencies (high and low) is allowed through. Does that make sense?

I hear ya Shizzzon. Precisely why I went the MAC address route... It's my understanding that the MAC address is unique to each NIC and as such, when you filter on MAC, it's pretty much the end of the security story. I reckon that begs the question... can MAC addys be spoofed?

I use Shizzzons method... Mrogowsi - is there a better method than filtering by MAC address of the NIC?