hispls

Are you SURE you need down to 20hz? I tune that low for movies and I promise you'll need to download "chopped and screwed" songs to get even into the 30's. Pipe organ music will have sub-harmonics down as low as 8hz. Do yourself a favor and before you decide on 20hz get some test tones and listen to them on a capable system and you might be surprised that what you think is 20 is more like 35-40. Almost any 18" sub will do it (look for one with high x-max and low fs as an 18 with low x-max and high fs is designed for 50hz farts). Large box tuned low will get you there (or large sealed or IB). For an amp, doubling power is only 2.6db gain in a perfect world so if you're up in the 1000-1500W range, don't sweat a couple hundred "rated" watts like it'll make much difference. Shoot for something that is known to be reliable that you can get from a company with good customer support. PLENTY of options out there for large mono-blocks.

This comment is based on what? Never used Stetsom, and I will say there isn't "sound quality" at 150db, but this seems a pretty bold statement.

So will #2 come with the basket + soft parts or is it now just a motor?

Lincoln is a rough trunk as the space through which soundwaves can get between trunk and cabin is pretty small and there's a LOT of steel and stuffing in between as well. IMO getting really ballsy with removing that stuff will pay off. I'd consider porting through the rear deck as well. I did an older towncar with a bandpass that ported up through the rear deck with decent results though that would likely be impractical with 18's for a number of reasons.

Didn't I see a good deal on a Soundsplinter 8" on the forum here somewhere? Would probably be a great option for small and clean.

Lanzar Opti 6000D can be had on eBay for 1100ish. That style opti is pretty solid and reliable. Don't rule out a pair of 2500 or 3KW amps that can strap (would essentially be 1 amp) Kicker KX2500.1 Sundown SAZ3000D etc. etc. Plenty of options that would get you into that power/price point if you went refurb.

We used to do this in electronics class with signal generator and a small speaker....just wiggle it around 18K and see who starts reacting. All people are different so I wouldn't get too worried if you can't hear > 14Khz Really you're missing NOTHING in music in that range anyway.

Tuning to 28 and 145-150 is NOT going to happen for you period. Not in a sedan, not with only 2 15's. If you want 145-150 you will need a big box with big ports tuned high. Considering there's guys with small hatchbacks, dual 18's and 6+KW that only hit 145 @ 30hz. and that's doing hair tricks. OH, and I really really miss driving a lincoln Have used towncar and continental in the past, both really really pleasant to drive, not so great for accoustics.... If you want accoustics stick to SUV, king-cab pickup, wagon, or hatchback.

Looks like a pretty efficient use of space. If you have a sedan (can't see from the pic) Do be sure you don't block off all the airflow between trunk and cabin. You'll lose a ton of output. Also if you can spare the wood and time building a temp box that's small enough to move around and test different angles will help a LOT. You may find a HUGE difference in freq response and output by just pointing the woofer/ports in different directions. Also, don't rule out using passive radiator(s) in place of ports if you want to save space.

I only ever use Sears deep cycle batteries. They do the job for me and their warranty is good.

It isn't really a bass boost. It restores low freq stuff that is lost in poor/old recordings. I had one for a while and it was very nice for a lot of older stuff (James Brown, Parliament, older Metallica/Megadeth). On new recordings it was overwhelming. I really wouldn't reccomend it unless you had some equipment that could dig deep as most of the stuff it adds is in the <30hz range. Mic was off by quite a bit but a useful tool for the sake of just finding peaks and weak spots in response. The difference in price between what I bought and sold mine for was only the cost of eBay fees (about 30$) so IMO well worth playing with/testing.

You migt want to consider how much space you have to work with for a box and work around that. Enclosure, install, and accoustics of the car will make more difference than your choice of gear. There's plenty of stuff around here that would sound great if used properly for <300$ (hint hint, search classifieds).

Assuming same power there is the benefit of being able to run things at higher impedence (which I generally like SQ is superior). I was talking about strapping to 4 ohms. I have 2X deep cycle batteries in the trunk, HO alternator, and 1/0 guage all around.... Check my sig I'm replacing 4X 1KW class A/B amps that I was able to feed. I don't think I want a pair of 600$ doorstops. How many people really have smoked these amps? What kind of abuse were they really giving them? Dunno how long my subs would hold up to 3KW ea either.... If I get a free day before the fall fishing picks up I'll probably do some testing and report back anyway. So far I'm liking just the 1. Quite capable and reasonably efficient.

Picked up a pair of 3000D's. Will be powering 2 DVC 4 ohm subs. Would there be any benefit of strapping and running a pair to 4 ohms over running just a single to 1 ohm? Output? Efficiency? etc? Any thoughts?

In the meantime, manual for the NEW amps here: Brix were shat.

I'd take Rl-S over W7 I'd swear by TC subs, but W7 is a very nice product...my only beef with them is the price. You'll know an SPL sub. They have low Q, low MMS, low X-max, high Fs, and huge thermal power handling.

should i just have my audio shop where im gettin everythin installed at do it? Simple way at low power hook each amp up out-of-phase to 2 coils of a DVC sub when amps are gained exactly even sub will not move at all. Unfortunately it's not completely exact unless you can bypass all EQ and X-over functions of the amps as well. Even then there could be slight varience. Otherwise using an o-scope would be optimum.

One of each or two Leviathans for more flexibility down the road. 6 channel amp with this output with a small footprint leaves a lot of options open. Realy a 2 channel and 6 channel should give you plenty of options as well. One thing to consider if the last run of Zed amps is any indicator I suspect the Leviathans will hold the most re-sale value (try to get hold of a Draconia...and that's only 4 channel!!) Considering what a POS the Alpine PDX 5 channel is (and at half the output) and what those sell for I think the Leviathan is a steal.

Sent my deposit for Leviathan.

What's the deal with shipping if I were to get into a Leviathan?

Most Zed amps DO NOT like 2 ohms bridged....and I mean in an angry smoking way don't like. If you search around forums there's a handfull that bridge to <4 ohms, but probalby less than 10 out of all the stuff he ever built.

OK. Thanks for the quick answer! By the way, very nice product, and I do see you on a LOT of forums trying to help out people...really impressed with the way you do business.

All the stuff you listed is great. Focus your money and effort into a good install and quality/correct box build and you'll have great results with anything you listed... really any product that has a forum on this board will give you great results if you install and use it properly. A 15" is great, but a 15 stuffed into a crappy box that's too small would be < a good 12 in a proper box.

Yep...keep in mind I have a pair of amps so it's a simple matter of a few more feet of wiring (which I have laying around anyway).

FFFFFFFUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!