Brian10962001

That Aura amp seems like it's being totally over looked. It's a good looking amp.

Still? I thought they had fixed this ages ago. It's not a "bad ground" so to speak, they have/had a pico fuse that blows if you plug them into an amp that's powered on. JVC has some nice decks, as does Kenwood. Be sure to shop, you can usually find a model with a good internal crossover good usb support, etc. for a great price.

SMD had an AP1500 doing 1800 watts and change. I've installed two of them, they're pretty small for the power they put out and both put out good power. I own a BRZ1200, SMD in the same run down had this amp putting out 1400 watts. It feels higher quality than the AP all around but as far as budget amps go I would feel fine with either of them. Do you have the current? If so go AP, if you're still pretty basic buy the BRZ.

Whenever I spay expanding foam in areas that are going to seal themselves off, I make sure to use the "high expanding hvac" foam. It's the same price and almost the same makeup, but it comes out a bit lighter and it seems to cure inside panels a ton bettter than the basic spray foam. I'm sure someone on here knows the difference between the two types, if I had a can left over I would check and see what it is.

I found a new favorite, Dorrough Boy I Grind. This is going to replace Young Jeezy for "watch this" song.

I found a new favorite, Dorrough Boy I Grind. This is going to replace Young Jeezy for "watch this" song.

You should flatten out all your bass boosts and set your crossover and gains from there. Not only will this sound better but it should give you a chance to find out where your car is loudest. I to often see people with cranked up bass boosts and the gain and crossovers nowhere near close to right. When I did my last SPL competition I had sweeps from 80 to 60hz playing, I did this because this was the "magic resonance" of my subs, box, etc. Later that day I got an SPL cd and ran sines from 50hz all the way up to 300hz and found that I had a VERY high resonance with my setup that I hadn't found before.

I'm in the process of building a home theater sub using one of the Mach 5 Audio MJ-18s, I'm going with the recommended 8.8 cubic foot enclosure and was using Win ISD to plot the slot port. I have 2 questions, 1.) What type of vent should I use with this? Should I go with the slot vent or use the conventional round vents? 2.) How much power should I feed this sub? Does anyone have a recommendation for an amplifier for this sub? I don't care if it's conventional or a plate amp. Thanks again everyone.

It didn't take much more effort for me to build the slot vent into my enclosure, and it's not alot bigger than 7 cubes. Plus with the vent it's way more awesome on the sub bass. The sub is plenty musical, I'de just do the vented design like I did. Otherwise just go as big as you can with the sealed; it won't drop as low as the same size vented enclosure and you probably won't notice much of a difference in bass definition.

I wondered how the image hosting here worked, I just used photo bucket because I already had the account and didn't have the energy to investigate it at the time. As for finishing the box, I'm still debating if I should wood grain it or if I should just spray it down with some truck bed liner. I like doing the bed liner because it seals the box and makes it waterproof but a nice big oak looking cabinet would be nice and match my Mitsubishi tower speakers. I'll post up some pics when i finally finish it. Last night we placed the sub in the corner by my TV and it really enhanced the sound with the corner loading.

Pics! http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/19...ow/DSC00489.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/19...ow/DSC00492.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/19...ow/DSC00490.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/19...ow/DSC00494.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/19...ow/DSC00495.jpg

Try Credence Speakers, they're located in Kentucky and use some of the old JL parts in a few of their subs. Web site is www.credencespeakers.com

I have pics taken specifically to put them on here but there's no basic upload controls, do they have to be HTML'd in? I"ll throw them up on my Photobucket and post a link. I honestly haven't been able to play this sub long eough to break it in, I need to get a test tone cd and let it rip at 20hz for a while.

IT LIVES! I got the enclosure finished last night and did a small listening session with it. This thing is UNGODLY loud. I really didn't realize how big the enclosure was going to be while putting it together, I ended up with an 8.97cft chamber and a 1.5 X 14 X 25.25 vent. I didn't know the exact sub displacement so I guessed it and it seems to have worked out fine. This thing is too loud, I seriously think I overdid it this time! I'm surprised how musical the sub is, even before it was broken in it surprised me at how well it kept up with music, very unexpected! I have to honestly say this is the best 300 bucks I've ever spent but moving it is going to be one HUGE pain.

I got the BASH 500 amp the other day and tested it out on my JLW3, it will absolutly peak this sub in the 1.5 cubic foot ported enclosure it's in. DHL is supposed to drop off the 18 today and I'm going to start drawing up the enclosure now. This should be interesting, that JL 10 was extremely loud on the 500 watt amp. *Small world, as I was writing this the DHL guy dropped off the sub!*

I'm building an enclosure for 4 12in Solo Barics, 2007 models. The question I have is he's already got the gear and he bought one of the really long, thin Memphis 4000 watt mono amplifiers. Does anyone have any experience with these? I personally think it's overpriced. I'm hoping it turns out to be a decent amp but I want to make sure the setup goes well for him.

He already plans to update the alternator, I'll recommend he install at least 1 extra Optima battery and an isolator. I'm planning a 12 cubic foot enclosure with a single slot vent tuned around 35htz. I'm just hoping everything holds up for him. He picked out all of his equipment I'm just doing the box and the install. This will be the first time I've ever installed an amp over 1000 watts; hell when I first got into this 1000 watts was absolutly HUGE LOL.

But the enclosure volume or port won't change? I thought you had to compensate for the mass of the cone? I'll pretty much always have it on rugs and such so It sounds like I'll make the coffee table style box and work out something to hide it, turn it into a lamp or a chair or something.

If the sub ohmed out fine it's probably the amplifier. Borrow another amp or sub, hook the sub up to your amp; if that doesn't work hook the amp up to your sub. It's 1 of the 2 things going wrong, probably the amp needs sent back for repair but as stated above you have to isolate that problem first. Using a DMM and measuring your voltage doesn't tell you the whole story, swapping in known good equipment to find the broke link does.

I got a smoking deal on a BASH 500 amp today (the exact same BASH 500 parts express sells). All the stuff's on the way so hopefully I'll have this together within the first half of Febuary! Does anyone have input on using a slot vent for this woofer? I'm considering doing that in a wide "coffee table" looking box or doing a really tall box with the woofer down firing. How much do I have to compensate if I down fire the woofer?

I'll give an opinion on the HU's you mentioned, the Kenwood is what I have now and it is hands down the best deck I've ever owned. The USB interface is great, it will work with a jump drive or even a small external hard drive. I would stay far away from Alpine head units. I have no clue why these decks are still so popular. I've owned them and installed them for people and it always ends the same. They sound great but they're not reliable. Pioneer or Kenwood head unit's have always treated me well. The Kenwood's a little less user friendly but this year especially has better features than Pioneer is currently offering.

4 ohm model, it was the one with the lower FS and most home stereo sub amps are rated at 4 ohm. I thought it looked like the better choice.

I'll check out how these tweeters sound that far off axis, I may be able to do a build out to angle them up towards me. It would be great if I could just install them side by side in a nice flat build out panel and be satisfied with the results.

This is the follow up to my last thread that got a bit jumbled and confusing. I decided it was the best plan to go active for my 1991 S10 single cab install as M5 suggested. I went ahead with the purchase of a Memphis X03 crossover, the Mli-65 mids, and the North D25 tweeters. I now have all the parts on hand and from the look and feel of everything I'm VERY happy with the components. The crossover though made in china is good and heavy, the only complaint I have on it is there are only 2 markins on each frequency knobs. The MLi-65 are SUPERBLY built, the grilles are very sturdy, the baskets are cast, the cones are thick pulp, and the surrounds are rubber. I really like the build quality on these mids. The tweeters are much the same. Very heavy duty little tweeters and for the price I don't think I could've done better (note that these tweets are very deep, not small by any means). My next quest is where to mount the tweeters in relation to the mids. I really only have 1 logical choice for the mids seeing as how they're going into a single cab S10 and that's in the doors. I plan to do a 3/4 MDF overlay and then a 3/4 build out for the lower door panels and do basic sound deadening inside the doors (single layer peel n seal type deadener). I originally had planned to put the tweeters in the panels with the 6.5's but that's going to be way off axis and at an odd angle in relation to where I'm sitting. I know I can do kick pods for them, or sail panel mounts and I do plan to experiment a bit with them when I get the truck in but I'de like some feedback on what you think the best mounting location will be for these. Now for the disclaimer, I'm not building this system to score points on a tremlab meter, I'm also not building a front stage just to keep up with 140db worth of bass, I just want a generally pleasing daily driver stereo for my truck. I listen to mostl melodic and black metal... think Metallica's S&M album, so what I liseten to is taxing on the components but has to be of some quality or I'll be sick of it fast. I'm currently running on a pair of Orion 4X6's in the dash that work but I'm not anywhere near satisfied with this setup, imaging and midbass if awful but what can you expect from good ole GM dash mount locations. Thanks in advance for any advice guys.

Are you getting any signal through the RCA inputs? If the amp is on and not going into protection, and the subwoofer is wired properly really the only thing that could be wrong at that point is the input, or the amp is dead. Hopefully it's just bad RCA's or something unhooked.