Brian10962001

Welding wire is usually a higher quality wire than the stuff they sell for car audio. Check it out, it usually has a MASSIVE strand count in it, I have a stretch of 4ga in my girlfriends car and the stuff is so flexible and nice; the only bad thing is once you strip an end if you remove it at all it frays up like crazy because the strand count is so high. Also check the wiring when you get it, there's different standards for wire gauging, the 4ga I have in the g/f's Altima barely fits in the 2ga distribution block.

Does anyone have any experience with the 2003 line up of Rockford Fosgate punch amps? I'm considering picking up a Punch 150 "25 to life" amp to go along with my Punch 600.4. I'm wondering if it would be better to go with this amp or to stick with the older style 500.2 that I can get a bit cheaper.

31 views, no suggestions? I'm honestly thinking of putting them in the 4X6 holes to start with and run the mids in the doors. I may experiment with them in the same baffle as the 6.5's. Kicks would be ideal but I have people ride with me alot and I really don't want to ruin the tweets plus it messes up the sound awful when someone's in the truck with me. Exactly how "horrible" would they be in the dash locations?

Reminds me of the old school cheater amps that would rate at 12.0 volts and like .000005 THD so you could run lower watt classes. Rockford however just blatantly lied on these guys LOL. My birth certificate says right under 900rms, I do have a question though, does Rockford no longer actually test every amplifier? I'm thinking they don't because a few people have got them with bad channels, there's no chance they actually tested that amp if it came with a bad output.

Putting 5 1/4's or even 6's in a Grand AM's doors is retardedly easy. When you take the panel off the 4X6's are mounted in a pod that could easily hold a larger speaker; GM probably just needed to get rid of all the old stock 4X6's so they ended up in there. I did an install in a newer Grand Am a while back, I pulled the door panel and the pod, traced the pod onto some 3/4 MDF jigsawed it out and put the 5 1/4 cutouts in them, job done in under 2 hours.

Got the amp yesterday and my first impression was "this thing is HUGE". I was honestly surprised, this amps bigger and heavier than I was expecting by a long shot. I spent about 1/2 an hour just looking over it, this is my first encounter with new Rockford products. I really like the new larger allen bolts that hold on the wiring cover, and the fact that you can take the top cover off the amp and look at the internals is nice. Overall I was far beyond happy with this purchase, go Rockford!

Birth Certificate means quite a bit when the amp is rated at 180 watts RMS bridged yet draws over 120 amps of current. These amps look nearly identical to the Punch 8002's, one odd thing is that the older Punch 800's were rated at 60 amps of draw and these are rated at 120. So either these amps are more powerful, or they got far less efficient one of the two. I'm assuming these put out somewhere in the realm of 900 real RMS watts. Either way it's really nice to know that these amps ARE still built strong and reliable. I get so tired of hearing how "great" the old Rockford stuff was compared to the new stuff. I remember what it was like when the DMS and Trans ANA amps were out and i remember the newer amps being just as good only cheaper and in different heat sinks. Hell the punch 600.4 I have has been running for over 4 YEARS and still works as good as the day I bought it. You can't argue with that kind of reliability.

What did your birth certificates read on those? What do you have them in? There's nothing about them in your sig. Yes the rating is 180 watts bridged at 4 ohm, these amps draw nearly that much current! I wouldn't even bother with one of these but I found a good deal on them and I'm going to have to do something creative for my single cab subwoofers hence this amp. How long have you ran these and have you had any reliability issues from them? I paid for mine today, it should be here within the week.

By the fuse rating and the internals of the amp they should out muscle the old Punch 800.2's. They have grey 25 to Life boards and look overbuilt inside. The 180 watt rating is obviously just for nostalgia, my main concern with one of these is that you hear how much "worse" Fosgate has become over the years. This usually comes from the same people that believe the original punch 45 could put out 1000 watts so it's not exactly the most reliable of sources saying this.

Hmm so anything else you want to tell me i'm doing wrong? I'm sure there's no one ever that's been able to apply some bass boost to their system and have good results, it just always ends in destruction I guess.

I got in on the Jan 1st special and purchased a set of Mach 5 Mli-65 mids. I've been planning a 2 way setup for my S10 that will run these mids, a passive crossover, and the North D25 tweeters. This will run off of either 2 channels of a Punch 600.4, or one of my Van Gough 600's. The setup is going into the door panels on an MDF baffle board that I'll be building soon. My question here is these tweeters are a low FS design and run at 6 ohm, the mids are 4 ohm. I found a set of Boston passive crossovers that're rated at 2700hz and I'm assuming they're rated at 8 ohm, here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Acoustics-2-Way...1QQcmdZViewItem If these are rated at 8 ohm, that should give me an 1800hz crossover point on the tweeters correct? I'm still debating on if I should chance a set of these crossovers, or if I should just fab up seperate crossovers for the tweeter, and the woofer. I already have the mids, but I haven't purchased the tweeters or crossovers yet. The NorthD25's just seemed like the best deal going for a Low Fs tweeter to mate up with these mids. Thanks in advance guys.

I went ahead and picked up a Memphis 16-X03 for 75 bucks, it's SN ratio was better than the Coustics and it came with a wired 45db bass boost which'll be nice. Plus I don't hear about ground noise issues with this unit and it's a bit smaller than the Coustics and the Clarion. Tweeters are on the way as well, I went ahead and ordered everything today. I'll keep everyone posted how this turns out.

Those were another set of 10's i was thinking about. But i dont know what to tune the box to, and what size port would do. maybe if someone here could send me some plans and what type of box i could do that would be great. The dimensions again are Length 60" Bottom depth 10" Top Depth 4" Hight 24" (16" up have to bump it in 1" all the way to the top to clear the window frame.) These are the maximum dmensions, so if some one could do one that is no bigger- preferably smaller- than the dimensions listed above, i would be very thankful. I wouldn't even attempt to fit those Fi BL's behind a truck seat, they're VERY deep. If you're set on those woofers then I would go with a blowthrough. You should pick 3 or 4 shallow mount BASIC 10in subwoofers and run a sealed enclosure. I would even go with some of the slim mount subs like the Pioneer you have, or the Kenwood Excelon's. With 4 10in woofers in a sealed enclosure you can get plenty of output while still keeping a small enclosure. You could use 3/4in material cut the bottom depth of your box down to 6in and still get 2.7 cu ft that would work well for 3 to 4 10's sealed. Also you don't need dividers for every sub, it's a good idea to put a bit of bracing in the enclosure though.

The Dimmer, and illumination wires are usually positve and the other ground. You probably burnt up some wiring in the car if you combined those two together, you should NEVER do that. Disconnect both wires from the radio wiring harness and make sure they're all closed off and not touching. Now get under your dash and check every single fuse you have. Sometimes dash lights will run off of a pair of fuses. Your head unit won't dim with the dash dimmer for the dash lights but I wouldn't worry about that really, at least everything will be fixed.

That is what I meant by 3 way. I'm doing the Mli65 mids and the North tweeters, no midrange I'm just going with the 2 way front stage in MDF build outs on the lower door panels. I meant the subwoofers as the 3rd part. I realize how I worded that incorrecctly now. I got the Mli65's in the mail today, they're VERY nice looking little mid woofers. So far the plans are to pick up the North Tweeters this week, and whatever crossover I decide on next week. Build plans are to run the punch 600.4 on the mids and highs and either a Punch 300S, or one of the Van Gough 600's to the pair of 10in subs behind the seat.

Either the Coustics XM6 or the Lanzar Vibe X6. I know how to set up an active 3 way I just hand't considered doing that until it was brought up on here. I thought it would be cheaper to just go passive but it won't be if I use decent components. I plan to do the external crossover but I hear the Coustics units tend to be hit or miss with giving ground loop problems, I can't really find anything about the Lanzars but they're so known for over rated products I was definetly leary of it (why I asked on here); and the only other thing in that price range is the Clarion. Below that is a ton of flea market brand crap that I wouldn't even want to chance trying.

Either the Coustics MX6 or the Lanzar Vibe X6. I know how to set up an active 3 way I just hand't considered doing that until it was brought up on here. I thought it would be cheaper to just go passive but it won't be if I use decent components. I plan to do the external crossover but I hear the Coustics units tend to be hit or miss with giving ground loop problems, I can't really find anything about the Lanzars but they're so known for over rated products I was definetly leary of it (why I asked on here); and the only other thing in that price range is the Clarion. Below that is a ton of flea market brand crap that I wouldn't even want to chance trying.

I plan to keep my deck, and after investigation I've found that an active crossover and adding 2 channels to my truck is cheaper than doing good passive crossovers plus it's WAY more adjustable. I still need to purchase the tweeters but I'm not doing a thing until the mids I have show up. I do have a question, the Lanzar 3 way crossover is said to have over 100db S/N ratio but they're known to over rate their stuff. Would I be better off sticking with the Coustics unit, or does anyone have any history with the 3 way active crossovers they offer?

I have 2 very serious questions you should consider: 1.) Is this system worth more to you than the truck? 2.) Do you plan to compete with this stereo or do you just want a badass setup in your truck? If you just want a good system to listen to and cruise with then I have to say 3 or 4 decent 10in subwoofers will do you just fine. I would say the box needs to be built a bit shallower so you don't get sick of driving the truck around up on the wheel. Even if it is built shallower you'll have the air space for 3 to 4 10in woofers that will sound killer. If you really just want the truck to be as loud as possible and don't mind tearing it up a bit, go with a good bed cover and do a blow through with 2 larger woofers in a ported enclosure. Trust me I have a 1991 S10 that I use as a daily driver and I can fit subwoofers that make me more than happy behind the seat.

Three basic ten inch subwoofers sealed in an enclosure behind your single cab seat should get you over 140db. Make sure you have a place to mount your amplifier. I would stay away from those L5/L7 square subs, they have some inherent issues with the cone shape and a not so hot reliability rating. I would also avoid the Rockford P3's. You really need to make sure whatever subwoofer you get will fit in that enclosure. In all honesty you could fit 4 10's across there just buy something that'll take a moderate amount of power and fit in your enclosure then get some decent wattage to them.

It sounds to me like you know what your goals are you just don't know exactly how to word them. You want a system that you will be happy with and that will be impressive; any of the subs you mentioned will do that. A very good enclosure on a single 10 or 12 with moderate wattage and alot of sound deadening will work wonders for you. It will impress everyone with how loud a single sub can be and you won't be breaking the bank. It's kind of a build smart not build strong idea. I'de go with a 10 W7 or a 12 W7 in the factory vented enclosure they come in, or have someone build you a VERY trick enclosure for one of the other subs you mentioned, possibly a transmission line or folded horn box. That's the ticket to sounding impressive with a single woofer and moderate wattage. Also find out exactly what your alternator can provide and keep your power goals within it's range, or buy a high output one and swap the factory one back on if you ever have to take it in for warranty service. Remember that you're going to have to live with this stereo everyday so don't overbuild it.

Ok I'll give this one last shot; I need a crossover for the HIGHS at 1.8khz if I'm going to run an active setup, what the heck are you talking about being "active capable" If I'm not going to run an external crossover, my amp doesn't have a crossover multiplier so it's not going to get anywhere near that, and we're not running a passive here, what head unit is going to give me this type of crossover point? I really don't get what you all are saying. I fully understand how to run a crossover and I understand where I need my points set and the value of them being adjustable but no one is answering the question I asked, WHO is making "Active Capable" head units? Are you using something else to set crossover points? Ok I searched on my own to figure out exactly what you meant by active capable, I was believing you meant a fully adjustable highpass for 2 channels and a fully adjustable bandpass (or lowpass) for 2 channels (front and rear most often) then a subwoofer line. I have a Kenwood Excelon X790 and it has an active crossover that I utilize in my setup already but the top frequency it can to go on highpass is 220 for the front and rear channel. So even though my deck is "active" it apparently won't work for a dedicated 2 way setup on a set of components. This brings me back to my dilema, either passive crossover or outboard active crossover and adding 2 pairs of additional channels to my current setup. Is there another option for this? Like the old Xmod filters that go inline to the RCA's possibly? Also would a fully active capable head unit have crossover points that were more adjustable than what I currently have? If so I'm assuming these are on Alpine and Eclipse high end head units.

Ok I'll give this one last shot; I need a crossover for the HIGHS at 1.8khz if I'm going to run an active setup, what the heck are you talking about being "active capable" If I'm not going to run an external crossover, my amp doesn't have a crossover multiplier so it's not going to get anywhere near that, and we're not running a passive here, what head unit is going to give me this type of crossover point? I really don't get what you all are saying. I fully understand how to run a crossover and I understand where I need my points set and the value of them being adjustable but no one is answering the question I asked, WHO is making "Active Capable" head units? Are you using something else to set crossover points?

I meant 1.8, I missed the period. I've never seen a head unit with a high pass that goes anywhere near that. The highest I've seen them go to is around 250hz. I just want to know who's building head units to do this kind of setup.

What head units provide a crossover that goes over 18khz?