Misfitsilv

One more possible problem is that I have a set of tweeters way up on the dash, pretty sure my alpine HU just has fronts and rears.

Well, like I said, I have an alpine CDA-9883 sitting in my room, but if I were to install that, I would need a new dash piece, as well as losing the spaceship look my car has stock. I just dont want to take the dash apart myself really. I believe the dash piece is about 40 bucks, around the same as a decent LOC. What would you guys suggest?

I recently had my blazer broken into, had my FI Q's stolen along with the rest of my setup. Found some RE SR's on craigslist for a good price, so I picked 'em up, and got an autotek ss1000.1d to push them. My '06 civic has a really strange dash, and I was wondering what kind of power and sound quality losses I would suffer if I kept it stock instead of installing my Alpine CDA-9883. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any help as to what LOC would give me the least unwanted noise, and how much it would cost to have one professionally installed by a local car audio shop directly to my rear speakers.

Heh, I had a guy at my local shop tell me to "not mess with "no-name" subs like FI and stick with kicker." It goes without saying that I haven't been there since.

I've got the same truck, and my 12's give people headaches. Make sure you have people sign waivers before stepping foot in your truck, haha. I dont know how youre getting 12 cuft, but if you can, more power to ya.

Well, the problem with this is that I have no plans. So far I'm thinking; H-13.5 W-28 D-15 Should be about 1.1-1.2 cuft to each sub. I still gotta go out and buy polyfil and that silicone sealant or whatever it is. If someone happens to send me some nice plans for a ported box, I'll probably go that way. But regardless, I'm gonna build my box tomorrow, and if nobody sends me plans by about noon tomorrow, I'll go with sealed. It's not a big deal, I'm sure it'll sound fine.

So heres the deal: I bought 2 12 X's A few months back during the clearance, and I put them in a horrible prefab ported box with circle ports and after about 2 days, a blown out side panel. Supposed to get 1.6-2.2 cuft in a ported box, I think theyre getting 1 each. It sounds decent I guess, but if I get it past about 1/3 volume, I get the worse port noise I've ever heard. I just got back from Home Depot, and I bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF. I'm planning on starting the construction of my new box tomorrow. I've decided on sealed, because to be honest, theres about 0 chance of me successfully building a ported box. Here are the stats for the X series 12's: Sealed box: .9-1.3 cuft Sub OD: 12.500 Cut ID: 11.125 Mounting depth: 5.750 Displacement: 0.10cuft Anyone have any dimensions that would make a decent sealed box for these? How does this sub OD/cut ID stuff work? I drill a 11.125 diameter hole in the box for each sub? I really don't know anything about making boxes, and any help would be appreciated. Also, How exactly would be the best/easiest way to go about getting my wire into the box? I've got some terminals on my current box, but they seem pretty cheap. Should I just use those or do something else to get the speaker wire to the subs? Any help is appreciated, and sorry for the hassle. -Tom

Order placed. 2 Questions; Any Idea when this should arrive to Florida, and What amp would you guys suggest for powering 2 12's? I want the cheapest I can get without suffering any loss of thump.