chrismcdonald12

Finally picked up a few sheets of MDF to play with to make my explorer box, what should the minimum port area be for 2 15inch RE SX's? So far i have messed around with the RE box tool and came up with a 6.1 Cube box tuned to 34.7hz with a port area of 74square inches. My available measurements seem to be 41 inches wide(before wheel well bumps), 18 inches deep, and i don't want to reach over 20 inches high on the height. If anyone can throw some suggestions at me for the area of port needed or maybe a box design they have used in their explorer it would be much appreciated. Thanks!

To be honest i dont want to sell it, its by far the best amp ive EVER owned... If its repairable ide rather just spend the money and kicker hasnt gotten back to me for 2 days now. The wire came part way out of the remote turn on hole, and a few strands managed to touch the ground wire it seems.... Guess i was stupid for using my spare 12 guage for a remote turn on... The deck fuse saved it, it burned out the inline when this happened. I was scared my 7800MP died, i love that deck.

Ok, so i fire up my car to leave my friends and hear a pop then smell burning.... Smoke is billowing from my remote wire and it seems it had gotten loose from my amplifier and touched ground while still inside the remote section of the amp. This is visually the only thing i think could have happened. Amp light turns on amp doesnt work, opened up the case and notice a few burnt fets and some bars... Ile get pics later but if theirs char marks on the board do you think this is still fixable and how costly would the repair be? I have horrible luck and just want to push this whole car off a cliff at some point... BAH!!

i dont know honestly... Just happened over time i guess maybe from vibration? All i know is that it hurts to have something stupid like that to such a nice but expensive amp :| Any idea where i can get it fixed and how much something like this would cost to fix?

Loud or not what a bloody shame.....

Well, i know personally i did a set in my driveway in 4 hours... The books charge 9 tho and shops dont do people favors.

lol 347?

well blitz, ive only had bearings spin on me once i hit the 500 hp range on my 5.0's and ive had 4 blocks as of yet. Yes they can crack but who is building your engines? Were any of them mexican blocks with the thicker mains? And not to mention sportsman blocks are available. I own one of 5.0 HO's pushing over 500 boosted in my area that i know of. They can take the power if you do it right but yes some do blow not all blocks were casted equally. And m5 yeah its weird to think the heads take so long yet everything else takes so little time but theirs a fair bit of small details to take care of when removing the heads not to mention that all the accessories bolt to them. Forgot to mention the higher nickel content in the Mexican block attributing to its strength.

The gt40 heads and intake will give you around 40 hp. and with a cam to boot it will throw him into a wicked amount of power for a daily driver. And yes the 5.0 will handle 5-600 rwhp if you have the fuel system and computer to back it. He said he has the exhaust to support the heads so the power will come as long as he has coned it to boot. Ile have some timeslips for you this year to boot to prove how much these 5.0's can take. Like i said all forged internals on that engine, and the block itself isnt going to let go after a mere 500 rwhp. Then again he may not be as lucky as me, i got a mexican block (thicker mains) and yes some blocks have cracked at 600 hp but thats also in the build too. The biggest problem with the stock 5.0 for making boosted power is the headbolts. 1987+ fox bodies "The Cobra used Ford's new GT-40 high performance engine equipment, and was rated at a very conservative 235. Actual horsepower is estimated to be closer to 300." Just my .02 Chris McDonald

M5, Heads not headers. Yes the mark 8 is alot faster(300HP) But the engine tears itself apart because its a weakened cobra engine, the oil pump doesn't pump enough for the engine and the crank is different then the cobra. If you took the time to replace the crank and oil pump its not unusual for that block to take a good solid 6-700 RWHP daily with a charger. Alot more potential then a 5.0. The 5.0 itself tho is all forged in that year still i believe so the lower end can handle enough boost to toss her in the 500-600 rwhp range. A small charger kit will cost around 2 grand and will give another 80 hp and 100 lflbs of torque. The kits come with everything needed too if you go with a vortech, plus if you want more juice down the road they can be upgraded like i did with mine. Went from a 6psi kit to 14 hehehe.

No problem, but don't worry about the little maintenance those cars are diamonds in the rough. I miss the sound of the factory amplified JBL system of mine, it was pretty amazing only rivaled by my 90 towncar cartier edition. Anyhow, if you are in the need for that power in the pants feeling right away and dont do alot of long distance highway driving i suggest a 4.10 gearset. The factory sound insulation is awesome for keeping out noise but theirs also around 600 lbs of that total too if i do remember and if your lookin for some cruiser boogie to it dropping some of that weight is free and has large effects. Ever 200 lbs feels like 10 hp. Also you said you have an exhaust? Was it from the headers back or from the H pipe back? If it was only behind the H your losing 10-15 hp just from extra cats. Anywho i gotta hit the sack so i can finish gettin my new explorer build underway.

Replace R&R Head Only Right Side B 0.0 6.8 Includes: Remove Carbon And Make Necessary Adjustments. Left Side B 0.0 6.7 Includes: Remove Carbon And Make Necessary Adjustments. Both Sides B 0.0 9.5 Includes: Remove Carbon And Make Necessary Adjustments. So your looking at 9.5 hours, times whatever your shops door rate is. I live in canada and i know my door rates are 100 an hour at my shop so its not cheap. You could do it yourself if its not your daily driver and i would be willing to supply you the literature to make it possible along with torque specs and whatnot. Should take you Maybe 20-30 hours total time if your tinkering around and dont have the experience.

Gimme 2 minutes ile access my shop software and go by book quotes. k? Afterall i am a mechanic

Tons of a wake up budget if you dont mind power in a bottle... 5.0 Could handle a 75 shot like nothing, but im more of a constantly available on tap hp kind of guy. 5.0's are easy to make a bit of power with. Cheapest upgrade that will give the most power, go to the junkyard and find a 1998 Ford Explorer SE v8 and buy its heads. Cost you like 100 bucks or so but they are a cast iron version of fords GT40 heads, good for a nice 40 hp or more of sexolicious pedal. The intake off of that truck is also the cobra intake upper and lower. If you need any information shoot me a line ive been tinkering with 5.0's since i was 15(my first lincoln)

1988 mark 7? Owned and built a few.... 225 Flywheel hp stock 4 Catalytic converters, do a new exhaust and intake and your looking at like 250 to 260. Love Love LOVE the mark. Miss mine to pieces. Also the AOD automatic transmission has a horribly long gear set, your car is theoretically geared to do 200 mph(for gas milage) but has no where near the power to make it there. Buy a vortech charger kit thattl put lead in your pencil. Oh for the record i think the stock 1/4 mile on that beast is 16 seconds.

LOL Horrible analogy unfortunately, regular provides more btu's -> Translates more horsepower per liter then high test.... Nice try though. I would say go with the BL's as the BTL will require a far larger amount of power to perform like they should, so why waste money on under-powering the larger subwoofers when you can use that money to improve other areas of your system. Just my .02 Chris McDonald

So, explorers finally safetied.... Now i am going to start the box build. I plan on installing 2 15's for now, but 4 in total down the road. My question, would it be bad for the subs to oversize the box to leave room to cut in speaker openings down the road? The subs call for roughly 3.5 @ 33-35 hz, if i made the box like 12 cubes tuned to the proper frequency what effect would it have? How does the increased size effect the sound and response of the sub? Will their be any dangers in running a sub in an oversize inclosure for daily driving? Thanks in advance. Chris McDonald

You might want to be more specific for some of the experts here... They like to know what type of music you listen to, if you want it purely for being loud or for more sound quality sacrificing some boom. Just give a little story of what your lookin to get out of it and what you want to do with it and you should get the help you need

Maybe find something with a little thicker then 5/8ths mdf for your sealed setup... I think anyhow.

Muhahahah, looks live ive found a sub for my festiva competition car for this year!!! Ile pm you later for where i can send payment. From what i understand if i shoot you the payment sometime before next week i should be good if theirs enough pre orders?

All i need to know is will a kx2500.1 be enough to power one? And if run 1 is successful will there perhaps be a chance of a second batch so i can get a second? BTW huge canadian fan of Mach 5... installed a few IXL's sealed in my buddies impala and the sq is amazing.

The saturn shook it self to peices after a short stint of 1 15" RESX with a 2500.1 wired at 4 ohm, had to replace it and am moving my gear over. Need some help from people who own ford explorers or SUV's in general. Alright, i just bought a 2001 ford explorer sport.... For the sub and port directions for some loud loud daily pounding which is the best place to face the subs and the port? I plan on keeping my rear seats, making a 7 cuft box ported to 34HZ for my re SX's. Also the alt is a 130amp factory unit, i have a pair of new batts for the trunk and am runnin a KX2500.1. Do i need a larger alt if im not always hard into the amp? Thanks in advance.

Well, corrodes less. IF you check out resistance of the metals tho copper is 1.68 to e-8 whereas gold is 2.4 ish. Copper is a better conductor, plain and simple.

The gold doesnt corrode... That is all.

Hes better off using the copper ring terminals on the front of the battery... gold is horrible compared to copper for current flow.