Exclusiveastheycome Lewis

Happy Birthday!!!!

Not yet no. but i had my buddy make my baffles over the weekend, hopefully they are the right dimensions. but can anyone point me in the right direction on the deadener, i dont have enought dyna mat, and im not a big fan of it these days, havent really used any since maybe 05-06.

After a couple of days playing around, i can not figure out where the distortion is coming from, and why it seems they cant handle the lower frequencies accordingly. Also EQ wise, if you wanted it to sound like you were in the studio while the artist recorded or right next to a stage, how would you adjust the EQ? for that vocal clarity

Just in the factory place. im in the process of trying to design and make a baffle for them and etc, but as of now, just the factory place. at lower volume theyr fine, well because its low volume, but medium to high changes things dramatically. also i forgot to note, that im not using my HU's outputs, as they have went out over the years. im using 2 line out put convertors ( pac ) to my 4channel. idk if that makes a difference for opinions. and just to recap they are Apline type R's. im goingto play with the gains today as well

so with 3/4 mdf, would that be approximately 2 pieces to fill the gap between the door itself and the door panel? maybe 3at most? and measurements should be to the shape of the factory hole? or something else. ive never made baffles before in the few yrs ive done installs. so that part is new to me, and ive only ever made a deck or done some customing cutting like twice and that abt 6yrs ago, so im pretty much learning and using everybit of info you are giving me

Borderline of possibly popping at lower frenquencies. distortion on those midbass notes, idk if telling u the song(s) i tested them with would make a diff so you could possibly get a feel for i guess which notes or instruments seem to be stressing. and slightly garbled at lower requency, but even turning the x-over up to over 180 it kinda sounded the same at hi volume as far as the stress goes.

I hadnt got a chance to mess with the gains yet, as ive been busy at work and just playing with the HU during breaks, but using just the Amps HP and not the HU's, and messing with the eq, with no loud on, no staging, or SLA it seems like the midrange/midbass is stressing, not alot of distortion, not more than it already had at higher volumes, but it sounds to be taking on to much without Both HP's on.

Ohhh, so deadend the whole door, and not just the area where the speaker is? and does the baffle have to be that "deep" looking? and my car has an imprint of factory grille, but id still have to cut it out if i wanted to use the aftermarket speaker grills. and what type of wood is that? doesnt look like 3/4mdf.

So for the access holes. Use fiberglass resin instead of some type of foam?

True, i would never crank the volume while the HP is off. i learned my lesson on that long ago haha. but on the SLA, tbh on the 3 Avic Z2's i have, and the 4yrs ive had them, they have always been +8 at the max when i didnt or dont have an amp running. so i guess i could tke it back down to normal 0 flat. its possible that would "flood" the mids would it not? and by opinion which HP would be more ideal to use? id assume the amps since its more variable than the HU's preset (50,80,125hz) also, gain settings, i never asked because i feel they are in a good spot (around 1o clock) and outta 45 i never turn my radio up passed 11. is that backwards? should i reduce gain and increase HU volume? and whats a general setting for "extreme" midranges? not so much as the midbass, but slightly above them to produce that type of clarity. in anyones opinion, i know it varies by music type, and ears, just looking for a more clear starting point

last time i built or cut anything it was using mdf, but how thick does it need to be or have to be considering the gap between the door itself and the door panel. i i know the cut out diameter for the speaker (5 3/8) so o can make a template for it & id assume a 5in hole saw should be used, and i have some dynamat somewhere from another car, you're saying deadend the door before putting the wood on? and is "Gaps and Cracks" the same as closed seal foam? and where would i apply it?

And should the Loud be turned off as well? and also what about the Source Level?

And hhow would i do that? im open to any and all suggestions. and at the time i putem in to go on the road because the factory had blown, i didnt have anything to better than install, except some cardboard to try to fill the diameter of the hole but it didnt turn out well.

so you're saying that it wouldnt be the best idea to do that? and outta the multiple cars ive had/have, that door panel isnt as flimsy as others, but that may be based of the wrong train of thought. although i dont think those type R are installed the best way they could be tho, just in the factory location, it wasnt a perfect fit, the factory speakers were slighty bigger, so theres some loose air flying around down there somehow hehe

Ok so im thinking about cuting holes in my door panel for my 6.5s Apline type R's So i can show the grills instead of leavingthem in the factory spot (08 Pont G6) . i plan on using a hole saw, would there be a better tool for that instead? and if i do that then i think the sound and performance of them will og down without some type of addend or extra install to go with them, especially with that small space between the door panel and the factory location, what could i do to ensure the SQ of them and performance? sound deadening maybe? or what could i put to fill that gap and etc.