wong05tsx

Thanks Denim for narrowing it down for me. Turns out I had a very very very small air leak on the bottom of the subwoofer, I was able to push down on the outside of the thing and some of the sound was gone. I was able to feel a very faint amount of air when I put my face next to it. I took the sub out, put some double sided tape on the bottom (works like weatherstripping I suppose), screwed the bish back down and the sound was gone. Here's another short video with the gains at about 1/4 on the sd 1500. Turned it down sinec I didnt want to blow my brains out trying to feel for any air leaks QyYo_5b8ioo

Got everything in few minutes ago. Snapped a few pix. Sounds great However, I have a feeling that one of the 10's has tinsel slapping or something? The other sub sounds fine. The sound is coming from the one on the left. I have my gains set conservatively right now. I took a very quick video to reproduce the sound (Only happens in the upper spectrum of the notes) I took the sub out to look at it, but the tinsel/spider looks fine? Anyone have any ideas? Here's the pix/video video: 2TgWmNcWxxQ and once again, the sub on the right sounds fine, the left one sounds a bit off as if the tinsel is slapping or something. :help:

I should have everything in tomorrow Finished the amp rack yesterday. It's not gonna be your 2000$ custom install, but it's probably to the best of my capabilities and imagination as of right now that fits my budget. With this install I'll still be able to access my spare tire well (which I currently can't get into due to the big a$$ ported box). I'll definately put up some pictures when I get it all in tomorrow along with the 20sq ft of SS Pro for the trunk floor. Hopefully, it'll come out the way that I imagined it The wheels are Works VS-XX 18" The car is not anywhere close to being that low stock. I'm dropped about 4inchs on Buddy Club Racing Spec Dampners

Thursday night before work... bored... picture time! Today I finished the sub box, replaced my two 4ga runs with a 0ga run, and built the amp rack (just need to get the amps out the car so I can drill the appropriate holes for the connectors) 1.8cu ft w/ 1lb polyfill (test) Two - 10" icon Dual 1's Sundown SAZ-1500D Front Hertz HSK165 with rainbow cal25 tweeters (one of my hertz tweets blew) Hertz HCX165 Sundown SAX 100.4 All kicker hyperflex wiring Optima Yellow top Big 2 of 3 Dynamat/Raamat/SS all doors, trunk lid, trunk floor (Middle pieces just extra bracing, i did take those pieces into account for air space yes) andd the car

Doing final wiring before i get to test out the system. On the manual for a single sub connection, it says to bridge to speaker +, on the speaker -, do i bridge that too? here's what the pic on the manual looks like hope i get the answer soon before the rain comes back thanks

All wiring done, took about 4 hours (2 hours running wire to back :\, an hour on the firewall alone... such tight fit) Everythings hooked up except the ground, still waiting for custom BALUN to be made and shipped to me; which'll be about 2 weeks from now. When it comes I just have to hook up the ground and plug in the RCA's and i'll be a happy man again. Took out the JL 300/2 today as well, see classifieds for sale, so I'm without music in the car until the balun gets here :\ Onto the pix Gonna take out those gloves/shoes etc at a later time, pix shot at night cuz i didnt have my camera during the day (it was the only way to keep my grounds as short as possible, all other options already thought of)

Back from vacation Yeah that's about all the comments i been getting in the few forums I posted on lol. The box was designed by Mr. Cabinetry on Caraudio 2.5cu @ 33hz I'm not a SPL head, more into SQ while still being able to be a bit loud when I want it to I have a small trunk and a navi unit on the right side that only gave me 14.5" of clearance so things had to be improvised to fit a 15" in there. About the port noise, I didn't hear any of it when I had the 15" IDQ in there, it sounded great, since I was changing amp setups, I figured I may as well get as much as I can without straining the electrical system; running the 1500 at 2 ohms, it feels like a waste of a 1500 if i ran it at 4ohms. And since the IDQ was D2, I really had no choice but to change to a D4, and I got the Treo SSI for a pretty good deal. No update on the system yet, it's been pouring as of the last few days, don't have a drive in garage, so I can't really do anything until the weather clears

Just a sneak peak of whats going on the next few days Just thought I'd share. Was too lazy to take them out to lay it out, but you get the idea. The 100.2 fits on top of that, without the box. 1500 and 100.4 laid out in front of the box, gonna hole saw thru the trunk liner floor to run wires Just put the Treo in this morning, hasn't seen any power yet [it has the same box specs are idq , save box making $$!] stay tuned for updates, going to vegas the next 3 days though. this is what the box actually looks like the 100.2 wil lbe sitting on the left higher side

The amount of power each driver gets is entirely dependent on how the manufacturer of your crossover splits the power in that passive set. I highly doubt its a 50/50 split though. Probably closer to 20/80. Awesome, thanks. I'm not sure how the xover is configured. but on the hertz site, the tweeters can handle 95w rms, and 6.5's can handle 150rms, 250max. feeding 320watts to them should be okay then, with the gains set correctly right?

didn't want to start another bridging 100.4 thread so i'll just add to this looking to bridge my 100.4 so i can feed my hertz hsk165 components 320 watts. does this mean that with the xover in place, the tweeter and mids will get 160 each? sorry for the noob question =(