Thumpper

well I got the Xi 800.4 in two channel bridged mode on my componets ...8ohm per channel the amp has a bit more output than the JBL 75.4ll and it sounds ALOT better with a flat eq setting over the JBL amp..but it is class D compared to class A/B..it is brighter sounding than the JBL the Xi 2500 isn't a bad amp either....that Lexus SC 400 install I am working on sounds amazing so the amps are starting to prove themselves

finally got the system planned out Exile sent me a Xi 800.4 amp for my components (class A/B Tripple Darlington design)........I am ditching the JBL GTO amps on the top end and switching to Exile.....way better customer service and better power going to the mids and tweets I want to stay below the window line and have as much low end extension as possible with max SQ so I'm going to go with either four or six Icon 10"...depending on what design I come up with... I got a buddy who is going with two of my Xcon 15" in a Dodge Dakota powered by a Soundstream XXX 6500 so there will be an added bonus build log coming

that enclosure would have costed about a grand to ship to the US..........

I love the sound of the Icons.......and everyone who I installed them for and sold them to love them also

1.25cf3 plus displacements tuned at 33hz

I though you would like this one...wait till you see it completed..it's only 1/2 done it's running enough area to properly unload with out bandpassing.......this set up seriously dropped jaws and got a ""are you friggin kidding me???"" when the first drop hit by everyone there and the subs are still stiff as boards t

a little test fit and a little test listen..................... the amp racks and rear trim peice as well as the air scoop and rear wall still have to be made but the design sounds awsome

I'm looking forward to trying this out.......... the Lexus is making a 150 mile trip for a test fit at the moment....should have pics in car soon

welll got the enclosures and the center peice done..... this will be in a trunk so it will be looked down upon...LOL there is still a couple of trim peices and amp plates to go...........

143.6db @ 10hz will move anyone...LOL I like the sound of them..they are easy to rebuild and I like dealing with Aaron and Mark best part is I'm supporting a small buisiness and I got something no one else around here does

it kinda sucked.....it costed me $5 to dump it to ....LOL I'm looking forward to this next build though.............and yes the subs will remain SSA

out with the old..................make room for the new

I ended up going with 1.0cf3 per woofer tuned at 32hz

the centerpeice still has to be made along with a wall and air scoop that goes up to the 10" woofer hole in the rear deck......""it's not gonna be bottled up in the trunk"" so there should be some good air movement in the cabin as well as some trim peices for the top to hold the contour of the trunk

2.25cf3 plus displacements tuned at 31hz for a 12"SSA Xcon

no terminal cup on this one..... a 10ft chunk of Tsunami 12 gage twisty will go from the sub directly to the amp

they know what the problem is....they just can't get a response from Crown or JBL about replacement parts really lame customer service imo....... I don't want another amp on the bottom end..anything else would be a downgrade

I'm just waiting to see if the parts are available to fix my Crown amp..... if it's not fixable I'll be working with EXILE and will be running there amps..this will change the amp rack so I can't do anything untill I know for shure.....

Loudspeakers have a mind of their own. You send them a signal and they add their own twist to it. They keep on vibrating after the signal has stopped, due to inertia. That’s called “ringing” or “time smearing.” In other words, the speaker produces sound waves that are not part of the original signal. Suppose the incoming signal is a “tight” kick drum with a short attack and decay in its signal envelope. When the kick-drum signal stops, the speaker continues to vibrate. The cone bounces back and forth in its suspension. So that nice, snappy kick drum turns into a boomy throb. Fortunately, a power amplifi er can exert control over the loudspeaker and reduce ringing. Damping is the ability of a power amplifi er to control loudspeaker motion. It’s measured in Damping Factor, which is load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance. Let’s explain. If the speaker impedance is 8 ohms, and the amplifi er output impedance is 0.01 ohms, the damping factor is 800. That’s a simplication. Since the speaker impedance and amplifi er output impedance vary with frequency, so does the damping factor. Also, the impedance of the speaker cable affects damping. Thick cables (with low AWG) allow more damping than thin cables with (high AWG). The lower the amplifi er’s output impedance, the higher the damping factor, and the tighter the sound is. A damping factor of 1000 or greater is considered high. High damping factor equals tight bass. How It Works How does an amplifi er control speaker motion? When the loudspeaker cone vibrates, it acts like a microphone, generating a signal from its voice coil. This signal generated by the speaker is called back EMF (back Electro Motive Force). It creates a current which travels through the speaker cable back into the amplifi er output, then returns to the speaker. Since back EMF is in opposite polarity with the speaker’s motion, back EMF impedes or damps the speaker’s ringing. The smaller the amp’s output impedance, the greater is the effect of back EMF on the speaker’s motion. An amplifi er with low output impedance short-circuits the back EMF, so the back EMF drives the loudspeaker with a relatively strong current that works against the speaker’s motion. When the speaker cone moves out, the back EMF pulls the speaker in, and vice versa. In short, the loudspeaker damps itself through the amplifi er output circuitry. The lower the impedance of that output circuitry, the more the back EMF can control the speaker’s ringing. To prove it to yourself, take a woofer that is not connected to anything. Put your ear next to the cone and tap on it. You might hear a low-pitched “bongggg” if the speaker itself is poorly damped. Now short the speaker terminals and tap again. You should hear a tighter thump. Damping factor varies with frequency. As you might suspect, damping factor is most important at low frequencies, say 10 Hz to 400 Hz. Bottom Line...... Amps with a high effective Damping Factor deliver clean, tight kick drum and bass. .................................................................................. here is an article from Richard Clark on Damping Factor http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2412_Damping_Factor_Article.pdf

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