Thumpper

I can tell 20 seconds into a song if the amps have a high effective damping or not I have had pages of discussion about damping factor since the very first car audio forum when the internet started....not worth arguing about because opinions are like buttholes....we all got one all I can say is there is no room in my system for an amp with a low damping factor...I am way to picky in listening for those micro details hidden in the bass and I like it TIGHT I always go for the highest damping factor I can afford.. use short wire runs of thick gage pure OFC and my systems always sound tighter and more controlled than the systems owned by those who think DF doesn't matter...first comment I always get is how tight it sounds.......just the way it is I guess....LOL anyways..... to the OP seriously....try a BPX 2200.1 if you can find one...you won't regret it I had four of them along with the big brother A3000gti and wish I still had them

if you are looking to buy used go to E-Bay and hunt down a JBL/Crown BPX-2200.1 it will give you flexibility of getting full power from 4ohm down to 1 ohm and those things have current servo's with an effective damping factor almost 50 times higher than the amps you have already discussed...tighter bass it"s what I would buy if I was going used , those amps are awsome

the Icon is more of an SQ sub.....personally I would not tune it any higher than 33hz I have had a 12" Icon on 500w rms in a buddies truck and it moved good... took a while to break in but IMO the Icon is one of the nicest sounding subs on the market

still stuck in Kelowna BC welding on Fortis natural gas distribution pipelines... that is going to change soon though , I miss car audio and see more MDF dust in the future

nice craftsmanship but ditch that screen door bracing with over 3000 enclosure builds under my belt I have done extensive testing with all types of configurations of bracing...got some completely mind boggling numbers on the termlab right down to 10hz when it is done right that bracing is more than enough resistance to stop the woofer from cupping 100% of the enclosures internal volume ,that could cost someone that .6db they need to win or the deep low end extension some people need to communicate with whales ( like myself ) screen door bracing changes the EFFECTIVE internal CF3 and if it is bad enough it can also effect tuning....I have seen some SPECTACULAR screen door bracing that looks really cool but if you run bracing IN LINE with the air movement to and from the woofer and the port the woofer can CUP all the internal CF3 giving you max efficiency and performance of the enclosure

got my hands on a mint 12" Punch HX2 , I can not resist building an enclosure to play with this thing..... no table saw or router so I'm skill and jig sawing this one

I forgot how good the HX2's sound... Rockford Fosgate did a big boo boo replacing them with the T series IMO

I just use wood glue the kerfing was fun with the skill saw.....LOL I'm really happy with the final result... very good out put for being a single 12" tuned so low

this one is 2.0 cf3 tuned at 30hz

all done ignore the bungie cord...it's going by by tomorrow when I install the brackets no paint or carpet,,,,this is only temporary till I am ready to fiberglass pods for the two 10"

I can not wait to get a table saw....slow going anyways...starting to take shape

sold

as the title states....I have a single 12" Icon dual 2 ohm rebuild kit ( with out the dust cap ) I have no use for it so it might as well go to someone who will .......first $50 takes it .... shipped via USPS

it is possible I hit 149db with a single Orion HCCA 12" woofer with a Crown A3000gti amp in a chevy x cab....if we had a hatchback I bet we could have added 3db take in mind there were 2 alternators and 4 batteries as well as weeks worth of tuning and moving the box around.....(it was a 44hz burp box) the vehicle also needs to be properly sound deadened