KU40

Electrical tape. Or just unplug the LED. Your method is faster, mine is permanent. As for the storms, *jealous* I love electrical storms. Well those seem like 3rd grade answers that I should have come up with myself. I did put tape over the power button which had the light seemingly brightest through it, but I used masking tape one night because that's all I could find when I was half asleep. I used like 8 layers and it still didn't block it out. I know I have some electrical tape around here if I get lazy and don't want to take the case off to unplug the thing.

You want the fans blowing parallel down the cooling fins. For most amps this would mean having the fans on the ends with the connections. You want one fan to push the air over the amp, the other to pull it from the amp and push it away on the other side.

Any amp that gets hot. It's just that sub amps generally have much more power running through them, so that is more potential for heat.

Well tonight was pretty much the worst night of sleep in my life. If it wasn't the thunder every 2 seconds for 8 hours (seriously longest storm I've ever seen, and by the looks of the radar it's only halfway done), it was rain hitting the metal downspout extender, the loud air conditioner, or the stupid hugely bright blue blinking light from my computer when it's in standby mode. Does anybody know how to get rid of that thing? It seriously lights up my entire room when it's dark. Today is going to be long. and I have no umbrella for the block walk to work from my parking space.

Get serious. You broke the law, you pay. Plus bass isn't omnidirectional out in the open like that. Are you going to tell me that you haven't been outside, heard a system coming, and not know exactly where it's coming from? Plus plus, you should never try to outwit a cop. Generally they get pissed at you for trying and hammer you.

Do those 18s really like having only 3.7 cubes per sub? If you increase the box size the system will become more efficient.

The box is tuned according to the net volume of the box, port area, and port length. so by adjusting any of those parameters, you adjust the tuning frequency of the box. Yes, a 10" x 4" port would be 40 sq. inches. But since you're using 15" subs I imagine you'll be making the box at least 16" tall? You could make the port the whole height of the box so that it's easier to construct the port. So with a 16" tall outer height box, the inner height using 3/4" wood would be 14.5". So you could make a 14.5" x 2.5" wide port and have 36.25 sq. inches of port. But that's just an example. However, you don't want to go over about a 1:9 width to height ratio for the port. So don't make like a 20" x 2" port.

Perhaps you should also look into highpass crossovers for you interior speakers, since I imagine the reason they can't take the power is that they're bottoming out. Cutting off low frequencies to them will allow you to turn the head unit higher and get more voltage down the line to the amps.

I'd like to attack that babe's young ladies.

Can't believe Tiger shot 3 over today to lose it. That stinks.

Damn is tomorrow Monday already? Where did the weekend go.

Well i didn't have much luck fishing today. Had a couple bites that wouldn't take the hook and I had one pretty good sized bass on once but he ran into the weeds and threw the hook. Arg. My friend caught a catfish so we ate him. I didn't do a great job filleting him up, though. I lack a fillet knife and all the knives I found were really too dull to do a decent job. I ended up hacking him into about 20 pieces with a serrated steak knife. That's how ill-prepared I was, unbeknownst to me beforehand.

For box size and tuning recommendations, always go to the manufacturer first. Although now as I go to their site I see they don't have a recommendation for the 15. I've never used the sub, but I would imagine 4 cubes tuned to 32 hz would be fine. A slot port with about 35-40 sq. inches would be sufficient. You can plug those numbers into winISD and it'll tell you how long to make the port.

That amp is rated for 1200 watts at 1 ohm. You have a dual 2 ohm sub, that would be wired in parallel to create a 1 ohm load on the amp. For the calculations you use the impedance load that sub will put on the amp which is 1 ohm. That comes out to 34.6 volts. Sundown is probably recommending a tad higher at 36 volts due to the fact that the amp could put out a little over 1200 watts with the proper electrical. Also, follow the recommendations that Duran said earlier. Ohhh, gotchya. Forgot that step. So when I'm at 0 bass, and I can't get the 36 volts, can I turn the bass boost up a tad? Or how would I go about doing that. If everything is set flat then you should be able to get the voltage you are looking for. Even with 2 volt preouts. What is the HU volume at? If you do have to turn up the boost, don't turn it any higher than where it was when you set everything up. When listening to it that is. The headunit volume goes a little over half way. If It gets any louder the factory front speakers will get to loud and start to distort. Aha...that is why. Yes, you will probably need to up the bass boost. no, do not turn up the bass boost. On Alpine head units the subwoofer level controls the overall output of the subwoofer RCA outputs. It is not a bass boost. so when you set the gain for the amp, you'll likely want to turn this to +15. However, the "bass" setting on the head unit is just a bass boost, and it's centered at a frequency that you can set. I think the options may be 60, 80, 120, or something like that. Do NOT use this. Put it to 0. If you use the "bass" setting, it will apply that to the interior speakers as well and just make them distort at an even lower volume level.

No need to start a new topic with the same information.

That's because you were trying to take the SPL graphs and make them work in your vehicle. The program was never designed for that. Don't worry about the presets. You can pick any of them and then just change the box size, tuning, etc. when you actually open the project and it will become a "custom" box. They're kinda like the "powerful," "vocal," "flat," etc. EQ presets on a Pioneer head unit, if you've ever seen those. It'll pick out an alignment for you, but 99% of the time you'll want to go in and change the EQ settings yourself individually to get the best sound. So just pick one and then change the box size and tune to what you want, and it will change the graphs accordingly and forget what you picked in the first place.

Me neither. Damn those things are nice.

You have some Awesome fishing equipment!! Thanks. A lot of time, thought, "training", and effort went into figuring out exactly what I wanted. If you don't mine, what would you recommend for flyfishing. This is something I have been thinking about doing. Budget? Fishing location? Species? Do you know what sort of baits you'd throw? *what works here may not be your choices I am looking for a decent set up. Maybe under $200, but I don't want to waste money on junk. As for fish trout and bass are pretty common here in central pa. That's not fair, you have my two favorite fishing species in one place. If I want stream trout (which I absolutely love) I have to go to Colorado.

damn, me too. Just switched to them from Farmers about 8 months ago. But it did nearly cut my premium in half, from 450 to 250 every 6 months, and with a car only worth 4k I'm not sure I care. I'll probably have saved any money they try to rip off of my reimbursement from smaller premiums. But if/when I buy a more expensive car it seems to be worth it to shop around.

Did you download the actual program?

Looks like Tiger Tiger Woods yall is going to be testing his streak of never losing a major after leading after 3 rounds when he dons the red shirt tomorrow.

When you have a cone moving up to a couple of inches 30-80 times a second, it needs to be flexible. Plus they weigh less. You don't want your tinsel leads significantly adding moving mass. and durability, don't want fatigue in the wire from stretching, which may eventually break. So basically I agree with bromo, just with more words.

If you want to hit 150 with that setup you can't tune low and be able to listen to music like you want. You'll have to probably tune to 45+ hz to have a chance. But what you can do is use aeroports like your friend, maybe three or four 4" ports and tune the box to 32-35 hz. Then plug maybe one or two of the ports for SPL testing and that will raise your tune to allow you a higher score. You'll just have to play with the number of ports and length to get the tuning frequencies right for when you're plugged/unplugged.

Didn't he have insurance? If it was a dui it is obviously his fault no matter what. That's what I was thinking too. Matt, I remember you taking some pictures of it a while ago, if you show those to the appraiser so they can see the good condition and any mods/upgrades you did, would that help? finally found his insurance and the claim has been submitted to them by my insurance but I'm hoping to talk to his insurance on monday. The best part is the truck wasn't even his and the insurance isn't his either. What i've done so far is compiling raw info. cars.com/vehix.com/autotrader.com/carmax.com all together searching <200mile radius 06 or newer limited xfire with an auto trans I yield 5 cars, 15k-21k if my memory serves and the average price was somewhere around $18.5 which is higher than any blue book. I have roughly $2500 worth of addons not counting actual stereo equipment because I'd rather just keep the shit and not fool with it but that may change as well. and my insurance company swore they couldn't do more than $14,400 In your state does the accident go to his personal car insurance or the insurance of the actual car in the accident? Here in kansas it goes to the car in the accident. So whoever he "borrowed" the truck from would be the one on the hook. I hate that. Happened to us when a friend of my brother's rolled our dad's truck into a car at the end of the driveway. My brother asked him to just move it down the driveway a little so he just hopped in, turned the key on (not the engine), put it into neutral, and let it roll down the driveway. Well, he didn't realize the brakes wouldn't work as well or at least the pedal would be stiffer. He is chinese and a terrible driver. Anyway, he couldn't stop it and ran it into like a 50s-something dodge that a guy had remodeled. And the cost went to our dad even though he was 300 miles away when it happened. Well hopefully his insurance company is a little better with the price. What insurance company do you have that wouldn't pay a decent price? Also, I guess depending on your insurance company, I wouldn't bet much on getting anything for the stereo. I'm not sure what you had in there, but when mine was broken into and stolen they only paid for "factory location" parts. so subs, amplifiers, EQs, etc., don't count. So I say if you can salvage it, do.

What differences would a good texas rig rod have than a wacky rod?