KU40

Put the bass boost at 0. That is an actual boost at a certain frequency that will likely do absolutely no good for your system, and increase the chance of harm. The sub level setting, however, adjusts the overall signal strength to the sub amplifier. When you set the gain you'll likely want this at +6. That way you can adjust the sub's volume relative to the rest of your interior speakers from the drivers seat. A bass knob that comes with an amplifier can either be a bass boost or a gain control. Bass boost is the same as the bass boost on the head unit, generally not a good idea to use at all. But the gain control is like the sub level setting on the head unit and adjusts the total signal strength. That is the appropriate control to use. If the shop set your gain with the bass boost all the way up, they did a terrible job.

If you face the sub forwards then seal off behind the front baffle of the enclosure, not only will the sub have less volume inside the cab to pressurize (likely increasing SPL), but it should also drastically reduce trunk vibration.

You can probably assume around .1 cubic foot for sub displacement. That'll change your tune a tad, but not noticeably. Doesn't really matter where you put the sub.

They have the same power handling. A larger cone does not increase this. The 15 should be able to go a touch lower but otherwise they should sound about the same.

I like my JL XRs for the most part.

yes the red line would be your port length. I try not to have too many bends if possible as it adds a touch of delay. You won't need 40 sq. inches for that sub, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything. I assume you just did this to make the port longer, and thus eating up more net volume? If so, I'd recommend just building a new box. That way at least you save some space in your trunk. Or maybe even just cut down one side of your current box to make it less wide or something.

especially my ex

Everybody seems to like my LG.

I could hear them all

No, and it will be fine.

A sub in a larger box won't be able to handle as much power. So just remember that. The 2.4 @ 28 box will give you a much larger boost in probably the 25-40 hz range. If you want those kind of lows, go for that. That box will also have a more even frequency response. If you want output, though, don't tune so low. Tune to 35 or so.

Yeah really, wtf.

If it is too much for the sub, turn the gain down. Simple.

What amplifier? Either way, the BTLs will be louder and have less chance of blowing.

I would strap two amps together. Then you can just split the signal and send it to each of the two pairs of strapped amps.

Hello

Meeting the sister-in-law for breakfast this morning and getting a dining room table and chairs from her. Now I won't have to eat in my chair all the time anymore. Although who am I kidding, I probably still will all the time.

I don't know how one of my fish survived the night. He's been doing whirly-twirlies in the tank since yesterday morning. I knew it was coming, he hasn't eaten in like 3 weeks. I'm surprised he lasted this long.

You shouldn't have to mess with the gain. The gain is used to match the incoming signal voltage from the head unit, which won't be changing.

Sounds like a bad connection with either the power or ground. Try running all new power and ground to the battery to see if it helps. You can just run the wires outside of the car to see if it helps, don't have to break your back threading it through the dash at first.

Don't use it. Ever.

Generally you load the mic side with the sub. Meaning since they generally put the mic on the passenger side, you want the port to be on the driver's side.

SQ or bass? What does that even mean? Do SQ-oriented subs not play bass?

The prices should tell you what's low line and what's high end for them. Find somebody that sells them and check it out.

Switch up to 0 gauge wire and put the extra battery back in. IIRC, that amp has a regulated power supply. So it will put out the same power regardless of input voltage because it will just draw more current to make up the difference. This differs from an unregulated power supply, which will just put out less power with lower voltage. So when your voltage dipped because the amp was outdrawing capacity, it tried drawing even more current so that it would keep that output power up. That's why your fuse blew. You need to keep your voltage high so that it doesn't have to draw so much current. Plus as more voltage goes through a wire, the more it heats up and becomes inefficient, thus further reducing voltage once it gets to the amp. The extra current also heats up the amplifier faster. So that's probably why it kept tripping thermal. Each time you do that, it likely shortens the life of the amplifier. You may also want to check the resistance of the sub's coils. One may be partially or all the way blown, thus reducing impedance for the amp and causing it problems as well. So when you go to walmart, get a DMM instead of just a voltmeter.