KU40

Idiot.

Hey I got over 4,000 posts sometime today.

Damn I hope my stocks don't give away the gains I've received the last 5 days. I'm murdering out there.

dammit it's 9:30 yet I need to eat and shower still. Playing basketball then lifting sure takes the free time away from a night.

gross. I hate land locked areas that get so humid. If I'm on the coast though I don't mind so much. I am very very close the the bay, so we are humid here nearly 10 months of the year. i wish i lived by the bay, And eat some hay? and make things out of clay? I just may!

Is that what it was? When I left work I was thinking man it seems a lot warmer than the 80* that my Explorer's readout said.

You will probably need more port area.

I'm not familiar with the subs so I can't offer suggestions on box size. Whether they can handle more power than 250 depends on the box. However I would not count on them doing so. Not because they aren't good subs, but because they were rated 250 for a reason. If you build sealed it doesn't matter if you do common or separate chambers. A smaller box will handle more power, yes. But don't think that just because you build a tiny box that you can put 500 watts on each sub. The increase in power handling in smaller boxes is of the mechanical variety, not thermal. The sub still has the same coil and cooling mechanisms in the motor. Smaller boxes are just able to handle more power before reaching mechanical limits because they have lower excursion for a given power input than a larger box.

You don't have to use only either A or B channels. They are wired together inside the amp so really they are the same output. You can use any you want. Leave phase at 0 when you start, but don't be afraid to change it as you listen so that you can get it in phase with your interior speakers. Changing this setting does not hurt the sub in any way.

It is not always better to have the subs and ports firing into the cabin. If you face them backwards you get a loading factor, much like putting your home theater sub in a corner. The sound waves really only have one direction to travel, and that's bouncing off of the back of the trunk and into the cabin. If you face the subs forward without sealing off the trunk, you'll have some waves that want to go backwards, back into the trunk, and cause cancellation and things. Your absolute best bet would probably be to face them forward and seal off the trunk behind the front baffle. However this takes some work that some people don't want to do. If you just want a drop-in install that will work just fine, fire both port and subs backwards and rest the box so it's about 6-10" from the back of the trunk. Are you meaning like physically cut a hole into your back seats? I wouldn't do that. People usually have good results cutting extra holes in the back deck though, to allow more sound through. You may have to build both a sealed and ported box to decide which you prefer. Don't worry about using the term SQ.

We need to know a little bit about what you want.

Most of the time you'll want the port and sub on the same face of the box. Generally, putting them 180 degrees from each other is the worst thing to do. Not to mention that the port will have depth to it, which might run into the motor in the boxes you drew up. If you want the kick drum in rock to sound the best, generally your best bet is sealed. A ported box will exaggerate the 30-45 hz range, and to some that sounds boomy or too exaggerated. But also to some that is exactly what they like.

No. The BTLs will be louder than the BLs with any power. The RMS of the BTL is 2000. RMS is not a minimum requirement, in fact it's quite the opposite.

How do we get more emoticons? Only a small box of about 20 pops up now, we used to have like 80. Not that I really ever use them much.

Is it still only Thursday? Darn.

i agree with the box change idea its a hatchback box where the back seat used to be in my ext cab chevy, as for the comment on my typing what does it matter to you HOW I TYPE Because as a moderator I have a responsibility to uphold the standards of the board. Check out number 20 of the membership rules. If you don't agree with them, you can take your questions elsewhere.

Rambo. But Predator vs. Rambo, I'd have to go Predator. Arnold got lucky.

I agree. WinISD can be useful, but how the shop is using it is not helpful at all. Is that 4-4.5 cubic feet of space before port and sub displacement? If so, just make the box as large as possible to get the most net volume out of a sufficient port. Are you planning to use aeros or slot port?

You don't need two threads of basically the same thing. Just build on this one.

I would choose two 12" icons ported to 30 hz.

Stop typing in all caps.

Your writing makes my head hurt and helping you nearly impossible. Go step by step telling what you did.

Just put as much power on it as it can take without smelling funny or sounding funny. Nobody can tell you that it will handle exactly 1476 watts.

A blow job every 4 hours for the next 10 years. She could manage that Good idea, I'll mention that to her when I see her next. I'm not sure I'd trust a vegetarian cooking my steak though

I'd choose the image dynamics.