KU40

It would be helpful to know what you have now that you want upgraded and what about it you don't like.

With 250 you could easily get a set of 6.5" components and an amp for them. Would you be willing to make mounting baffles to change the 5x7/6x8 hole into a 6.5" one?

I'd choose the middle one.

Sounds fun. So can I ask how the relationship is going with it being long distance for this long? The girl I'm sorta talking to lives in Shawnee, and that's about 40 minutes away house-to-house. It's not terribly far like from Wichita to Manhattan, but it still sucks when you wish you could just hop over a few blocks to their house to go shopping, eat, quick bone, etc. I'm worried that i'm the kind of dude who thinks that's important.

Discovered a hidden outlet inside the wall...the things you find hidden in a wall of a nearly 60 year old home... Did you find Jimmy Hoffa's body?

Um, sealed boxes don't have tuning frequencies. I love the sound of a sealed box, but the lows are a little soft. I'm thinking a ported box tuned to around 28 hertz may be my best bet for the lows. I wish my Rockford amp had a variable SSF instead of either turned off or on at 28 hertz. Honestly if you tune that low and know what few songs you have that may play below that and know to turn it down at those times, you'll be fine without a subsonic filter.

Need to know your budget.

Ah yes, that would have been helpful. Thanks.

I wish I had somebody to go to the gym with. It would be good to have somebody for encouragement for that last rep, plus a spotter so that I feel comfortable pushing it.

Since it seems like you are just looking for a simple drop-in install with little upgrading or work, I'd just go to your local retailers and listen to their offerings. Even just 6x8 coaxials (actual 2-ways, not something crazy like 5-ways), may be all you're looking for. But if you're willing to make a small effort and make some baffles to convert your 6x8 hole into a 6.5" hole, that would be a little better.

Um, sealed boxes don't have tuning frequencies.

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation? There is. But it doesn't only have to do with power. Box size, tuning frequency, frequency of the note played, etc., all come into play when figuring out excursion with a given power input. Download a frequency response program that has an excursion plot and you'll get it. winISD is the one I'm familiar with. But I don't know the formula. As for less than 75 watts, that's just, well, absurd. What about subs that are only rated for 50 watts RMS? But I'll answer your question with a question- How many watts do you think your amplifier is putting out when your head unit is on volume 1 and you can barely hear the sub if at all? Is the sub getting messed up then? As for thread jacking, I'm not sorry. This was ridiculous in the first place.

Ugh. Took the Explorer in for an oil change and they found a crack in the thermostat housing. Ford wants like $300 for the dumb thing, so it'll be like 450 with labor. And my transfer case is leaking, and they recommended I take it to another shop that I don't want to go to or the dealership. So I guess that'll probably be like another 500 for them to redo the TC gaskets, if that's what it is. So excited to spend a grand, maybe more. How awesome would it be for there to be a crack in the TC instead of just leaking gaskets. Another grand. I guess it's still cheaper than buying a new car. I can spend $1000 a year on repairs on this or $4000 a year on payments.

did you have any filters on? what amp was it? was there any eq? The Phase is on O, the Bass EQ is on 0db, Sub Sonic Filter set around 21 hz. its on a hifonics 1610d. both of the test tones were 0db. they r the ones off of realmofexcursion.com. Try turning the subsonic off and remeasure.

If you want to retain certainty of being able to resell it, wire it for 2 ohms. No reason to take a chance on an amp you're going to replace anyways when it could affect the money you get out of it.

We have to get the list of commands going again. Strip works well. Haha first one I tried!

I didn't know there were grades within MDF either. But I know there are low and high, as ppiflat said.

You are quite pompous. If you really knew what you were talking about you wouldn't be asking this question, because you'd already know that there is no minimum. A speaker will continue to have more excursion and more output in a very linear and predictable way with added power. More power = more of those two things. So unless you want to quantify a minimum excursion level in a given box, we can't tell you how much power it will take to get where you want it to be. I'll give you a hypothetical. 10 watts = 1 mm excursion 50 watts = 5 mm excursion 100 watts = 10 mm excursion 200 watts = 15 mm excursion 500 watts = 20 mm excursion 1000 watts = 28 mm excursion. So where along that chart would you qualify the sub as being "underpowered?" The numbers are made up but the situation is real.

Were both test tones of the same reference volume? Like both -3db, not something like the 50 hz tone at 0 db but the 35 hz tone at -6 db? But I'll look around too and see if I'm wrong.

Your Rockford amp doesn't only start making notes at 20 hz. It's just a range that fits within whatever guidelines they set forth, just like sub manufacturers. They'll say frequency response 30-400 hz or something, but really that just means that the response of the sub is +/- 3db over that range, or whatever parameter they want to use. Your amp can put out notes below 20 hz, but maybe it has a bit higher distortion or something.

1,088

That amp does have a crossover, and the frequency control knob is the crossover point. Just make sure the switch is "on", and set it for about 80 hz. Other than that, that amp is rated at 65 x 4 @ 4 ohms, so really it may do 40x4, so the sub is probably only getting 80 watts. It won't move a ton. Your most easy wiring configuration is probably with the coils in series and then bridge the rear channels.

I was thinking a single 15" in 4 cubes. Do they make preamp subsonic filters? Just curious. Yeah actually they do make preamp sub sonic filters. Nice. I may use one and compromise between the 2 discussed frequency ranges, and go 25 hertz. That would be sweet. Really still too low. There will be NO benefit of tuning that low. Really below 28 in a car will NOT help your response in general. I understand that most music doesn't go that low, but a tuning frequency that low would even out the frequency response hump. So it has to be beneficial for somebody looking for that, no?

Hmm I see that now. I went to their site before my first post to make sure and went under "Audio Products" but there were none. But just now I see there are some under audio accessories and video products.

Thank you for the response. However, I am aware of the port length application. * Lower power handling noted The problem lies in the conundrum wherein the port length to obtain a super low tuning (20-25 hertz) is long enough to force my plans to increase the enclosure size to compensate for this length, unless I lessen the planned port width. That leads to a subsequent question. Relatively speaking, would decreasing a slot port width from 3 inches to 2 inches be inadequate for a 15" driver? Please do not go below 27Hz for Port Tuning and that depends on what subs you will use. Port width can be as wide as you want but you want to stay within the recommend port area (12-16in^2 per cube of internal volume), but 2 inches may be a little too narrow. How bout this list your goals and what you want from your next ported enclsosure and we can go from there. Cool. My goals are, in order of highest to lowest priority: Sound quality, low frequency response, SPL I'm curious as to why tuning should be 27 hertz or above. If I went with a slightly higher tuning, it would work, as my rockford p1000.1bd has the subsonic filter at 28 hertz if I turn it on. I'm not going to ask the redundant question of ported vs. sealed. It appears ported is recommended moreso. Anyway, I plan to use a single 15" driver, whether, Icon, FI Q, or SSD. Depending on money I may go with IDmax, but most likely not. Well the Q wants tuning 28Hz and above, Icon wants tuning 27Hz and above and the SSD wants tuning at 33Hz. So tuning below 27Hz wouldnt help you anyway since the company's dont even recommend that low tuning, then your box will kinda become a one hit wonder and music usually doesnt go that low unless you listen to a lot of chopped and screwed music or cd made by a pipe organ. With that set sonic filter you want to tune above 28hz, if you tune below it then the feature will be useless. mm, not so fast. Lowering box tuning will not make the setup a one note wonder. Raising the frequency will, not lowering it. Lowering tuning frequency expands the frequency response range of the driver and makes it more flat. The lower the tuning frequency is, the more the ported box behaves like a sealed box. I'm not sure how you got the findings that say that any of those drivers "want" a tuning frequency above what you listed. We could plug any of those subs into a HT application with the tuning frequency at 15 hz and they would be brilliant. Well I was speaking in a car environment they would want a lower tuning, know Im a little bit confused. I remember when we had this discussion about my ported enclosure I had for my CVX's tuned to 26Hz, everyone was telling me it was a waste and why tune it so low. I know that a sub could be put in a Home Theater application and shine, but for a car whats the lowest tuning that should be used or is there if any. Everyone was saying its absurd, blah blah blah and now you say its fine. Well it's sort of a pro vs. con thing. The problem is that generally people who want a ported box want it for the greater efficiency and thus be louder. Well, music generally does not go below 30 hz. Therefore, if you want to maximize the SPL of the system, you tune to there or slightly greater. But porting in the 30s gives an exaggerated response in the 30-50 range. If you model any sub you can see that. Tuning lower reduces that exaggeration, yet still gives an efficiency boost over sealed. Just not as great of one as a box tuned higher. As for yours vs. this topic, perhaps you had different goals. The OP of this topic wanted firstly SQ (which I took as a flat FR), and low frequency response (which I took as sub-35 hz or so). I don't remember or maybe didn't see your topic, but I just assume you had different goals in mind which led to the higher suggested tuning frequency.