KU40

I can appreciate the work that went into it, but I think it looks stupid.

the new Raptor? If you do end up getting a Raptor you better not pussy foot around in it...remember reading about it in either Peterson's or Four Wheeler, they thrashed the piss out of one and it just begged for more...good to see OEM's churning out capable 4x4's from the showroom floor... Now if only Dodge had put the Cummins in the Power Wagon... Yeah the new one. With the 6.2 when it comes out. I have been reading and I think that engine will be AMAZING. 500HP, locking rear AND front diffs, 35" BFG A/T's, insane articulation, sounds like fun to me wasn't it 400 hp and 400 tq? 500 sounds fine though too. I think it would be great snuggled up with some turbos too. http://www.fordvehicles.com/f150raptor/ SWEET!

It's not about the difference in wattage by number, it's difference by percentage. 40 watt difference isn't much when going from 300 to 260, no, but from 80 to 40 it's a lot more. But, that being said, neither 2000 to 2500 nor 260 to 300 are significant.

I deleted your thread in the Fi technical section as you only need one. This happens in essentially every vehicle, with every sub setup. The deal is that you lose cancellation by allowing a place for the waves to escape rather than bounce back into themselves. There's nothing you can do when it gets cold, as this only happens when an opening to the outside is created.

Wait, he said if you use more port area there would be port noise? Do yourself a favor, never go back to that shop again. He has no idea what he's talking about. A smaller port, such as yours that he made at 14 sq. inches, is where port noise becomes an issue. You need a larger port to move more air. It's like trying to move 1000 gallons/minute through a 1" pipe (14 sq. inches of port) vs an 8" pipe (35 sq. inches).

even though he's a dbag.

Roids?? Crystal Methe? PCP?

im needin a 4ohm load to run my ssd12d2 so thats not enough You can wire it to a 1 ohm load. 1ohm aint cracked up to b like everyone thinks sloppy n more likely to blow sumthin not a clean signal im good w 4ohm thanks English man, speak english. For all those amps you mentioned, cut the RMS power in half and that's about what you'll get out of them. If you try to push them to their rated power you'll get 10% THD. So there goes your cleaner signal than 1 ohm theory. must have been english u obviously understood me so dont be rude im here tryin to get some valueble input not attitude We have standards on this board. Read this:

What enclosure do you want? Tuned to what frequency? I'll just throw one out for the heck of it. 8 cubes @ 32 hz. Outside dimensions: 38w x 22h x 24.5d. Port 100 sq. inches x 24.5" long. That assumes 3/4" wood. I'd suggest a little bracing, perhaps some all thread.

LOL! hahahahaha We've all been there. My ex was right to the point of being curious about it when we broke up. So I have not been there.

im needin a 4ohm load to run my ssd12d2 so thats not enough You can wire it to a 1 ohm load. 1ohm aint cracked up to b like everyone thinks sloppy n more likely to blow sumthin not a clean signal im good w 4ohm thanks English man, speak english. For all those amps you mentioned, cut the RMS power in half and that's about what you'll get out of them. If you try to push them to their rated power you'll get 10% THD. So there goes your cleaner signal than 1 ohm theory.

Why does it matter? Even if you have a head unit or EQ with really high signal voltage outputs, you can dial those down to within acceptable range of the amps. That said, I don't know.

Maybe do 6 15s then. 4 cubes sealed is quite a bit different than 2.8. Stuffing with polyfill generally only gains you about 10% in box volume, so you'd still be a little under 3.1 cubes per sub, given that equation.

LOL! hahahahaha

I think my PS2 is finally broked. I tried turning it on a dozen times the other day but it wouldn't output video or sound. For the last year I've had to start it, then restart it and it would work fine. And it has also had a static noise issue if it wasn't sitting right. I guess it's time had come. I'd get a new PS3 but they can't play PS2 games, so that's worthless to me. I think I heard they're coming out with one that can though.

hahaha. I bet she felt special.

:( Really. You need to change your situation man. I am. Good to hear. Stay strong

Why not? is there something magical about them that makes them any different than a 12" sub to put in a sealed box? I wouldn't skimp on airspace for them. I'd think about just doing 4 instead. You won't lose that much output.

I'm posting this thread in the general section so that maybe more people will see it. This is a plea to get people to write product reviews. In my opinion, that is one of the most valuable resources that this forum can have yet it is being severely underutilized. Write a review about all of your equipment, not just subs (as I know that's the most popular). We get many threads each day with people trying to figure out what equipment to buy and we could point them to the review section. But right now there are about four reviews in the last four months in there. However, there is a caveat to my encouragement. Please write a good review. This includes positives and negatives in an objective manner, and put your boner for the product/company or your purchase pride aside. A review saying "This sub is so loud and its SQ is great, it rocks," does absolutely no good. We need details details details. Also, do not be afraid to compare to other equipment, such as "I just bought sub x, and although it's louder in the 30-40 hz range in a similar box than my old sub y, the kick drum at the upper end is not as well defined." If you just do the best you can, that's great. If you can't think of everything that needs to be said about it just because you're new to writing reviews, that's ok too, just be prepared for somebody to ask you about it in the thread. But once again, please be as specific and objective as possible.

Making baffles is easy. Just take a bit of spare 1/2" wood (or whatever will be thin enough to allow your speaker to fit inside your door panel so that the surround doesn't hit the panel) and cut out a hole for a 6.5" speaker. If you have a jig saw this can be done in about 5 minutes. Then bolt that into the stock mounting holes. You'll then have to drill holes in the mounting baffle for your new speaker. If there are any uneven edges when you mount the new baffle on you may have to go around with some kind of sealant to make sure the wood is airtight against the door metal. Then if you can, cover up the rest of the holes in the door skin with some sound deadener.

Had to finally put the comforter on the bed tonight. My feet were cold the last two nights.

:( Really. You need to change your situation man.

If the subsonic is almost halfway it's around 35 hz. That's too high and is cutting off a number of usable frequencies. Try turning it down to maybe a little over 1/4. Also with the lowpass almost halfway it's around 160 hz. Waaaay too high. Turn it down to 1/4, or maybe where 80 hz might be. Turn the bass boost all the way down. Put the loudness on HU off and put the EQ on whatever you like the interior speakers to sound like. Then reset the gain.

I think he just mistyped and meant 1 ohm.

XCON and 1500D sound like a great combo.