KU40

This is my Theory of what happens. subs have a Fs which is the the free air resonant frequency of the speaker. if a sub has a Fs of 35 hz and you tune your box to 35 hz. the speaker will resonant at that frequency. tuning a box to far below that like 28hz, 25hz or something like that, I might not have the right kind of pressure to keep the speaker from hitting it's Xmech, which is the max mechanical excursion of the speaker. that's why you might hear stories of people say there 1500watt sub blew out on 900watts of power. because the speaker bottomed out and reach it's Xmech because of tuning below Fs. The only issue is......why is tuning below Fs bad? In other words, why are frequencies below Fs bad but frequencies above it aren't? Your car has a resonating frequency, does it fall apart if you play a note below it? If tuning below Fs is bad, what are we to do with the Sundown Nightshade, which has an Fs of 43 hz? The 12" FI BTL also has an Fs of 39 hz. Also, how about all of those home theater subwoofer enclosures that are tuned way low, like 12-15 hz? Those are definitely below 99% of all subs' Fs. My point is that there isn't anything wrong with tuning below Fs. The problem with running into mechanical limits can occur at any frequency with the right amount of power. Even above tuning frequency and Fs.

You are very tall.

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link. if you use a multimeter and use a 20 hz sweep while doing it. your ac voltage should peak at 20 hz which is right away. ive set my gain with a dmm using a 20 hz tone then set it using an oscope and the wave was clean the entire sweep, and i could actually turn the gain up a little. actually after thinking about it for a little bit that if you set with a dmm and you use the frequency that your subsonic filter is set to then it would be most accurate. Why would you want to use a tone at your subsonic filter frequency? You do know that the frequency of a filter is the -3db point, not just the start of the slope off, right?

Just guess. If you really want to set them up right to sound the best you'll want to play with phase anyways, i.e.- try switching + and - on each speaker one at a time to see if it sounds better.

If you get a passive component set you'll want a 2 channel amp, and you can wire both mids and tweets to the amp. With a passive setup the amp goes to the crossover, which then splits the signal to the tweeters and mids.

Why did you put that in there? If it's acting like polyfill it will seemingly raise the size of the enclosure about 10%, which would lower the effective tuning frequency 1-2 hz. Why would double bass be bad for speakers? Isn't that there, um, point of existence?

That amp is 600 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 1000 x 2 @ 2 ohms, and 2000 x 1 @ 4 ohms. It's not a very good match for that woofer. The 3 ohms is too low for the amplifier in bridged mode. I suppose you could wire it to just one channel of the amplifier and get about 800 watts, but that's not ideal. I'd instead try to find a mono amplifier that puts out 1000-1500 watts @ 2 ohms.

You can trim wires. However beware that the cutoff section of the wire doesn't overlap onto the other terminals and cause a short. It would probably be best to get a distro block.

I would guess about .3 cubes.

Man I hope I sleep like 11 hours tonight with no wake ups. I wouldn't mind continuing some of my dreams of late. Especially the one where the coworker left her husband for me . Although she looked like one of my ex-gfs, the office and story was right in line with the coworker. I don't really care to continue the one from last night where this lady and her goons were out to kill me in a dock-like area. And I really don't want to wake up in a sweat like the last two nights.

They sure put the shifter in there all goofy.

Because of the video? why? BTLs look exactly the same when playing that song.

Luckily winISD alpha already has those specs in it. Looks like I got lucky with my educated guess on box size and tune. Anything between 2.0 and 2.5 cubic feet @ 25 hz should yield the best results for you. You'll just have to be a little careful with the power, as they look to reach excursion limits around 40 hz with only 100 watts for the pair. I did have a couple 12W0s back in the day with a 1000 watt RMS amp on the pair and never had a problem, but I knew where their stress level was and never exceeded it. I never clamped output power either, so I can't tell you for sure how much power was going to them. But they're stronger than they seem.

Pretty nice looking engine.

oooohhhhhh. haha. I didn't know they made fabric by itself. I'm not big on "fashion," as you could probably tell. Hey, I live in Kansas.

Nice. I wonder how my Explorer would do with a load. Never towed anything.

This may sound stupid at first, but they're safe up until they fail. Like any speaker, you can play any frequency on them. It's just a matter of how much power they can handle at that frequency. I've never seen a passive crossover that comes with a HPF for the mids. You're probably better off just using the head unit HPF instead of stacking the HU and amp's filters when you have them both on. Your mids will be fine with the bass with no crossover until you hear them bottoming out or breaking up, which is normally pretty obvious in mids. You probably won't be able to play as loud as with them on, though. But if you want to play them loud, I imagine you'll want at least a 50 hz HPF on them, if not the 63. I would just stick with the system for filters you have in place now.

How old are the subs? IIRC, the older W0s liked a bit larger boxes. Maybe try about 2 cubes net tuned to 25 hz for the pair. But I wouldn't expect too much, W0s arent' known for their low end authority. At least the setup I had and the other I heard back in the day. But good luck though.

Well on the two sites I found it just listed 4 ohm stereo power and 4 ohm bridged power. What site were you looking at? About 98% of 2 channel amps are only stable to 2 ohms stereo/4 ohms bridged.

You want to put your subs inside purses? I don't understand what you are trying to say.

Why would he want to do that? The amplifier is only stable at 4 ohms bridged. You bought a mismatched amp for your sub. Your only option is to either wire the voice coils in series and bridge the amp at 8 ohms or wire one voice coil to each channel. Either way you'll only get about 350 watts out of the amp.

Oh I really have nothing to say.

I cant' find that earthquake makes a 1000D. They used to make good amps back in the 50/100/200 DHC model days of 5+ years ago. But I don't know if they're still as good as back then.

Nah there's no difference.

You probably could, but it would also probably shorten the life span of the amplifier. Why not just either get an amp stable at .5 ohm or wire your setup to a load that a different amplifier is stable at.