KU40

I think you could get away with one 4" aeroport, or 20 sq. inches if you do a slot port. The problem with these small boxes with low tunes is the incredibly long ports they require. Many times the port takes up as much volume as the subs' space. Just make sure that you have a subsonic filter on these if you have anything playing below 25 hz. These boxes make the power handling drop off super quick below tuning. For instance, at 20 hz winISD shows they can only handle 20 watts apiece.

Got to make a file and mark it "Confidential" at work today. I felt like a secret agent.

Haha wow, who in their right mind would put that in there? They obviously didn't get that at Nebraska Furniture Mart, they won't even give you the TV if you can't transport it properly.

Just in case you want a second opinion, I agree with Impious. ha

Also, if I'm reading what you wrote correctly, you are incorrectly thinking you are only getting about 300 watts per channel because you only have the gain 3/4 up. The gain is not a volume knob, it doesn't work like the volume setting on your head unit. You very well could be getting full power from the amp at that setting, and could even be passed that and into clipping. It all depends on the signal voltage from the head unit to the amp. The gain is only to match the amplifier to that input voltage.

When I bought the under-seat prefab box for my dad's F-150, it just came with about 2-3" long cylindrical spacers made of metal, and longer screws for the seats. That's all there was to raise the seat up for more room. So if you can find those two things (should be pretty easy), you have a simple lift kit. Oh and maybe it came with washers for the screw to spacer junction as well.

If you're going to make towers, i.e. full range speakers, you don't want a plate amp. I thought you were just doing subs since you said that in your first post. Unless you're doing a sub, mid, and tweet all in the same tower?

If it's with the four L5 15s and 2k watts, I think there should be more potential there.

Con- owner

The added load makes the alternator work harder, which in turn creates more resistance for the belt, which bogs down the engine as it lacks the umph to keep the belt going the same speed with the added resistance. But it could also just be normal warm up period? Your idle will be slightly higher right after startup and last for a few minutes (longer if its colder weather) as the engine warms up.

I watched a couple episodes of "The Alaska Experiment" yesterday and last night I had a dream about hunting tarmagen.

Plate amps go up to 1000 watts, but really for anything close to high power pro audio amps are better.

You need the BL.

Try turning on your AC. If the voltage dips down into the 12s and stays there (at or below the battery's resting voltage), you have a bad alternator. You may have just gotten a weak one when you replaced it, or if your car still has the overheating issues that may have hurt it. Heat is the worst enemy of anything electrical, even just the ambient heat from the engine.

Was first on an ezboard forum about 10 years ago, then SIN/CSO, then here. I was on Force for a hot minute, didn't say much though. Oh and icix back when they were new and somewhat decent. but I hardly count that anymore.

oh shit, and he drives off.... fucking hilarious.. haha oh man that's funny, but really sucks for the other cars' owners. It would be hilarious to see the driver's face after they backed off and were just sitting there for a couple seconds. You know they were running through the consequences and if they should just drive away in their head. But man I bet they were freakin!

The gain is simply there to match the amplifier's signal with that coming from the head unit down the RCAs. The gain is not a volume knob like on your head unit. You can get the full 1200 watts even with the gain all the way down. If you notice on the gain it has little numbers and probably a little "v" next to them, that is for volts. So the gain probably goes from something like .5v to 6v. If you set it all the way down, that means your head unit is putting 6 volts down the RCAs. With the gain all the way up your head unit better only be putting out .5v. If you try to cheat and set the gain higher than what is actually coming out of the head unit, you get clipping. Did you set the gain with the DMM with a 0 db test tone? The problem with that is that music is not recorded at 0 db. So with music the sub will always be quieter than how you set the gain. Personally I just use my ears to set the gain. When I hear the sub stressing or can hear the amp clipping, I know I've gone too far. Every song is different anyways, so IMO it's imperative that you know how your system responds to each song. Your sub can handle 1000 watts at one frequency, but at another maybe it can only handle 500 before reaching mechanical limits because of box properties. Well, your amplifier doesn't know that, it wants to put out 1000 at that same head unit volume setting anyways. So YOU have to be the responsible one with the volume knob. This is part of the reason why I turn my setup down a few notches between each song (unless I've listened to the CD a thousand times and know exactly what's coming and how my setup handles it). That way I have a little play room in case the next song was recorded louder than the previous song, or has a frequency that my sub doesn't like with the power it would have gotten with full volume. If a song opens up with a note that your sub doesn't like at full power, the suspension of the sub can be damaged before you can turn the volume down.

I think I played the worst game of basketball in my life tonight. We were playing the weakest team (besides us) in the league and still lost by 10. We shouldn't have, though, even with all of our stupid turnovers, if I had pulled my head out of my ass and not played like an idiot and made the shots I should have.

Generally a sealed box will handle notes below 25 hz better if the ported box is tuned to average in-car tuning frequency of around 32 hz. But a ported box generally rapes a sealed one from 30-50 hz. As for excursion, you can definitely get full excursion in a sealed box. It all comes down to power. In a ported box it takes very little power under the tuning frequency to reach full excursion, whereas sealed boxes can handle more power that low.

You're getting low voltage. The amp is going into protect from low voltage, and in order for the amplifier to continue to put out its power at a lower voltage it has to pull more amps. Hence the breaker opens. So either something in your charging system is going bad or you just turned the gain up higher for more actual power and the amp is pulling more current than it was before.

Chances are you're not going to be able to keep enough juice flowing to a 3000D in your house. Just do it right and get a home audio amp if you're going to keep the BTL in your house.

Go to autozone or somewhere and have your alternator and battery load tested. If your lights dim just by pushing on the brake pedal or rolling up a window one of those almost has to be going bad. A capacitor will do nothing for you.

There is no way you can run a D2 ohm subwoofer at 2 ohms. Couldnt you just wire each vc to seperate channels at 2 ohm? He's talking specifically about the kicker amp he has, which is a mono amp.

Yeah. If you want perhaps a little more info head over to http://www.bcae1.com/ and on the right side go to #27, crossover basics (there are many others in that index, that's just the basic one). Just letting you know since you could damage your equipment by setting the gain with a DMM at that crossover frequency. Since it's -3db, you will be setting the correct voltage at an attenuated frequency, so once you play a normal frequency above the crossover point you'll actually be getting more power than you think you are.

So...... what do you want us to tell you about the specs?