KU40

That would be fine.

I hope you mean highpass (subsonic) at 29 hz and lowpass at 80 hz.

You need to read the whole thing. Twice. hahaha

Just a salesman ripping on another company's product that he doesn't know so that he can try and sell his own stuff. Happens in basically every car audio shop.

Hooray Friday, and hooray warm weather. 57* right now, high over 70 today. Much better than the 28* it was yesterday morning.

x2

You have a sealed box. It has an f3, but that's not the same thing as a tuning frequency in a ported box. Don't worry about the tuning frequency, and don't worry about the subsonic filter on the amp. You don't need it.

Looks like they borrowed from the Viper a little bit. I like it a lot better.

I dig it, except for the fact it is so low the wheels are tucking. I hate that.

The tuning frequency is a calculation that includes net box volume, port area, and port length. There are various port calculators on the web or even on this site.

Once again i'll suggest taking a DMM to each coil.

Popping is a very, very general term. We need much more info like more specifically how it sounds, when does it happen, etc.

There is no reason to put both amplifiers on that sub. Not only is it ghetto but that sub is only 1000 watts RMS, so it will only handle one amp. I'd just use the JL. You probably want a ported box, tuned to something like 30 hz.

So they have dual 2 ohm coils and are wired in series/parallel? Check each coil with a DMM, just to make sure that maybe one coil isn't defected or something and reading too low.

ok... so how should i have my amp set ? Head Unit Settings Bass Boost/Exend = Off Loud/Loundness = Off Sub Level: + whatever yours goes up to minus a few whatever your preference Bass = 0 or lower, whatever your preference Amp Settings Gain = Set with DMM, no more than 50-60% if you dont have one. LPF = 100Hz or lower whatever your preference Bass Boost = Off SSF = 1-5 Hz lower than box tuning, or until subs start to reach its excursion level. You have this saved on your computer somewhere, don't you?

If the amps aren't turning on with the cd but are with the radio it sounds like he has the remote wired to the wrong wire from the head unit. Or else there is some setting on the head unit to turn on voltage down that line while playing different sources that may have been reset when it was disconnected from power. As for the fuse, brandonf is right. Too small of a fuse causes no problems other than it might blow. I have had only an 80 amp fuse on amps with up to 140 amps combined for years and never had a problem. If they aren't as loud it is likely because of some head unit setting. If you had the bass turned up on the head unit before, unplugging the power resets those settings, so it's now at 0.

Terps are playing an exhibition game. Yeah KU did too. Won by 40. First possession of the game was a dunk by us. That's starting the season right

Well to find out if the remote isn't wired correctly, just go back to the amps and see if they're on.

Either amp clipping or sub reaching limits.

I'd just cut out a hole in the polyfill around the terminal cup. It doesn't have to cover every square inch to be effective.

For subwoofer application efficiency difference is really the only difference worth noting. I have a 4 channel Kenwood amp in that same line and it does the job. The fan on it is noisy though. I've never clamped the output to see if it does rated, though. Lower line Kenwood anything sucks, but the excelon line has always been fairly decent.

KU bball top wahoo! Hopefully this preseason #1 pick holds true!

And the KU basketball season has begun!

Pontiac not so dead? It reminds me of a Mustang

Send here USPS envelope full of monopoly money Ha, that would be funny