KU40

You just had to get used to it.

No, it means the sub won't produce as much sound with each watt. As in instead having an 89 db sensitivity, it has 87.

srsly x2. And who cares that it's your best friend's sister. Who do you think he'd rather see her with? You or some jackoff?

There won't be any noticeable differences.

I was googling for midget porn and pushed the "Im Feeling Lucky" button and it took me here. Haha I'm just kidding. Maybe.

I think if you are going to put in fake names, make them good ones.

Since you gave no indication of your listening habits or what you want out of the sub it's pretty impossible to tell which would be better for you. I would choose XCON.

It probably does right around rated power.

You want the dual 2. That way you wire the coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load at the amp.

How do you match fuse size to wire exactly? Is there a formula? Personally I don't use fuses except right after the last battery before the amp. Ive seen some kind of chart before but I dont remember all the shit it said. I was only looking for info on 1/0 wire and it said to fuse it at about 350amp. I didnt take it as the bible but a reference. I also heard this from many people too. Thats what I use on all my 1/0. Ive used as small as 250 before but not for very long. I had some wire, when I had my first system, get completely fried by using too big of a fuse for 8 ga wire. It was like pvc. Wire size does have only certain current carrying capability. There are charts on the internet if you look. Also, there is no problem with going with a smaller fuse than what a wire guide says. You just can't go bigger. I've had an 80 amp fuse on my 1/0 gauge wire for years. As for fusing only after the last battery before the amp, that's fine if that's for an external fuse for the amp. But if you have a wire running from your front battery to your rear batteries (obviously you do), it needs to be fused up front under the hood. That's the section of wire that's most important to protect with a fuse, in fact.

hahaha. That is going to be worked into my vernacular at work. probably not.

Stock going up 100% today FTW.

Do 2.25 @ 32 hz.

the port should be 12 in.^2 per ft.^3 so that would be 60 in.^2 for a 5 ft.^3 enclosure tuned to 35hz ok?

Oh three 10s, not sure where I got 12s. Ehh, might still do it anyway.

Sweet router work.

I would also say fairly large. 4.5 seems decent, maybe even 5. 35 hz is about as high as I'd want to go to get SPL while retaining at least some semblance of musicality. sub and port displacements are added to the net figure recommended. So if sub is .15 cubes, port is 1 cube, and you want a 4.5 cube enclosure, you need to build a box with 5.65 cubes internally.

Going to the gym top

Pretty good information, thanks. When they said kit car it brought back memories of a Pontiac Fiero that did a Lambo kit on it and it was pretty much a royal PITA. I hate when people make Fieros into Lambos.

Just as short as possible. There's no real answer since you can't go any shorter than your install will allow. If you have your amps 6 feet away how can we tell you to make your wires 4 feet long? Just put the amps as close as feasible to the batteries. That's it.

With three 12s I would do neither. I would fire forward and seal off the trunk behind the front baffle.

ah. Well there are a few port calculators on the web that just use the area and not designed specifically with round ports in mind. I think maybe JL's website has one.

A/Bs are generally about 65% and Ds are around 85%.

who is building your box? He's not very knowledgeable. If you parallel wire each driver, they become 1 ohm. Then if you series each driver to the amp, it becomes 1 + 1 + 1 = 3 ohms.

It's the same. All that matters when designing different shaped ports is the port is port area. 50 sq. inches in slot port is the same as 50 sq. inches in a round port.