KU40

Stolen top. Day off work today, not sure what to do. I suppose I should do household chores since I've been neglecting everything for two weeks. Definitely need to find some chapstick though, my lips feel dryer than the Arizona desert. All cracked and peeling.

I really liked the red top I had in my old vehicle. That's all I got.

I don't understand how airspace fits into not being able to downfire it? Or is your concern with the room needed under the box between it and the floor if downfiring?

I used to get those a lot but haven't in quite a while, year+. Kinda disappointed.

Just had a pretty good first date. Got to the coffee shop at 8 (I got hot chocolate, ha) and before I knew it the guy was flipping the open/closed sign and I read that they closed at 11. I was like no way, we've been here 3 hours. So they booted us out and we stood outside in the 35* and talked for another 30 minutes unknowingly. Interesting.

Nothing to support that train of thought. Having more strands is kinda like having more lanes on the freeway for a car (or electron) to drive on. If you add up the resistance of every strand of wire in the cable, sure there's more in a 4 gauge than 12 gauge. However that doesn't matter. All that matters is each individual strand, and that will be the same whether in 4 or 12 gauge. The difference is that there's just more strands in the 4 gauge, so it won't get overloaded with current as quickly as 12 gauge. Once the current carrying capacity of the wire is matched with the load, traffic congestion begins, which heats up the wire, and heat causes more resistance. So in high current carrying applications, smaller wire will actually have more resistance.

I would probably downfire the sub and port. IMO, box positioned in a corner is ideal, but against any wall is next best (front wall with the TV is best, then side walls, and back well least favorite).

Caps have nowhere near the storage capacity as a battery, even a 50 farad cap. Not a good idea at all.

Why is this in the AA forum? Moving.

Tirefryr had it right in his first post. He expects a lot out of people. You don't have to know everything already, just be willing to do so. Maybe he holds people to higher standards than some of their parents ever did, and maybe that's half of the problem.

OK, well break it down for us and tell us exactly how every wire is hooked up and how every knob or switch on each amp is set. For this it's easiest to read if you make a list instead of type it into a paragraph.

With so many annoying spelling errors I had to at least change the first word in the title. And if you don't give more specific system goals than good quality and hitting hard this will be locked. Otherwise just flip a coin.

It's 22" come on... Someone do the math, how much area is that? And 8500w to boot? The new one is rediculous. 400lbs? Most of it is frame!! Am i wrong? I calculated the surface area of the 24" to be 48sqft? If they hit anything below 150 with that much area, i'm gonna break someone. 48 square feet? With a 2' x 2' square sub? Hmm........I'm going to say 4 square feet.

How are you running a BTL at .7 ohms? I trust you mean the Re, which is not the same as nominal. Just say 1 ohm. As to the OP, just wait until you get the second amp. No reason to void your warranty and risk damaging the amp. Just wire the subs for a 2 ohm final load on the single 3500D until you get the second.

Not really. Amps work more efficiently in cold.

That master/slave thing is probably your problem. How do you have them strapped?

BLs. or even BTLs.

I like my Alpine CDA9827. It sounds similar to yours, except my pause doesn't take 10 seconds. As for the bass center control frequency, if you leave the +/- associated with it at 0, then it doesn't matter. It is flat at that point and it's basically like you are not using it. I'm not sure what the bass focus delay is. Is it time alignment? If so you should be able to adjust it so that the subs are responding in step with the interior speakers. I'm not a huge fan of Kenwood or Pioneer unless it's the high-end models. Maybe check into Eclipse. My friend has a Clarion that he likes, but I haven't had any play time with it other than listening in his car a couple times.

OMG, IM SORRY I THINK THE UNIT SUCKS o.k. On this unit you can't turn off the bass center frequency you must use it ( 60hz to 180hz) no flat. The bass focus delay affects the subwooter timing.Pause button takes 10 seconds maybe more before music play back. You never just get answers here. If you would have said this in your first post it would have been 1,000 times more helpful. Just using a blanket statement like "better SPL deck" tells us nothing. If it has features you don't like, obviously we'd need to know those before suggesting something else.

Maybe triple check the wiring and make sure nothing is out of phase. Take a battery to each voice coil to make sure they are labeled and wired correctly.

How does it suck for SPL? That makes no sense. All the head unit does is send the signal to the amplifier. The sub, box, amplifier, and overall install make up 4,875,392,239,023,029,495,189,023,894,196,735,643,872,238,189,893,728 times more of the SPL score. That is not an exaggeration. In fact, it may be an understatement.

He said he's having trouble with high bass not low. Yes, but he was saying that he doesn't like his friends' prefab boxes because they don't have lows, and bigrank was saying that he doesn't like them because their tuning frequency is too high. Which is most likely 100% the case. Exactly how low of frequency are you talking about here? You say sub-30, but is that just down to 25-28 hz? Or do you listen to stuff with 10 hz notes in it? If it's just the former, you can get good results with a ported box. Does your head unit have a lowpass crossover on it that is on? As for judging the bass in that range, are you using test tones or music? If music, what instruments are you talking about (i.e.- kick drum)?

What you did was wire each sub's voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load on each sub. Then by wiring two subs in series, each pair is 4 ohms. So if you have one pair of subs wired to each channel of the amp, you're getting a 4 ohm load on each channel. What amp is it? My bet is that you just aren't getting enough power and are in response turning up the gain too far and clipping the amp, and the clipping is the terrible sound you're hearing.

Shoot I can't quite read the "Conclusion" part. Does it say yes or no?

Quite.