KU40

Have a game of basketball HORSE with a girl tomorrow. If I win she makes me supper sometime, if she wins I have to watch an episode of Grey's Anatomy with her.

And where are the low pass filter and subsonic filter (if it has one) set at?

THANK YOU! lol That's the answer I was looking for. Alright, I would use that 6cu ft than. Would I be able to keep the port 32hz? or do I have to make some changes there 2? Or could I build say a 7cu ft, and than brace the whole inside to love the cu ft after displacement? this is what i said before. when the box is bigger the power handling goes down. nobody can tell you if its going to take 4600 or not. this is for you to find out. when you hook it all up and start playing it check for it to get hot and see if you can smell coil. if you can back the gains down. if you cant then it can handle it. ohhh yeah I see what you mean. Well what box size do you recommend for me with all this power? I am a daily driver. well fi recommends 5-10 cubes. id say go with about 6 cubes. give or take some. you'll have more chance of it taking 4600 with a smaller box. Mechanically, yes. But just remember that thermal power handling doesn't care about box size.

Man leave it alone it is starting to get old, it's simple just post right and use the right grammar and spelling (which is part of the rules). This is getting lame now, Im street smart too but that doesnt mean you take that everywhere you go. You gotta learn when to grow up and let it go or being street smart will be the reason why you street dead. Anybody can be street smart but it takes a better man to better himself in all aspects of life instead what you see, do or experience on a daily. The same I have been trying to tell my brother these last few years and he listens and he is worse than you. Im tired people using being in the streets and all that shit as an excuse, you can better yourself you just choose not too. And so what if people say smart shit: number it's a computer and everyone can sound tough on the internet and probably just punks in person, number there just words (if you let words hurt you then your hurting your life man since people are going to say what they want anyway). Just brush it off and move on, no point in having a word battle that nobody is going to win. Good words.

Link us to these rule breakings.

Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it? it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is. put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains. "if not"- is that after it blows? haha lol See thats what worries me. I don't want to put 4600watts to it, and than it blows. I really wish Fi or anybody could tell me what is the BTL max? Honestly you just need to get the words "peak" and "max" out of your brain. You have been listening to too much marketing drivel. Plus if you think about it, amplifiers would have peak ratings also. If you look at many of them, they'll say 1000 watts RMS, 2000 peak. So there you go, match up your RMS and your peak ratings of the amp and subs if that's what will get you through the day. But just so you know, peak ratings on amplifiers mean as little as peak ratings on subs. The best thing to do once you get your sub is to just not worry about absolute power handling numbers and figure out a gain setting that the sub will be happy at. If you turn it up and hear the sub stressing or bottoming out, lower the gain. If you smell burning, lower the gain. If you hear the sub not getting any louder or beginning to sound flat as you turn up the volume, lower it. Your ears are your best tools, sharpen them.

x2. About same cone area as three 15s or two 18s.

Why don't you just go back to the XXX

Hmm. Minnesota is having trouble with the team because they have a $7 billion deficit, yet California wants them, who has a $40 billion deficit. This makes sense, how? No wonder they're in so much debt. No fiscal discipline at all, even in the worst of times.

Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it? it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is. put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains. ohhhh, ok. I will do. I was kind of comparing myself with that guy with the 01 tahoe with 4 18s lol. It wont let me type his name in. But he has over 5k on each of his now with his new build. And had over 4k to them before that. So I was thinking if he could put that much on them for that long, than I should be ok. Right? no one can really tell you how much YOURS can take. theres no set limit on what the sub can take. well besides rms but people put way more. you just need to check it out for yourself. Alright. I guess you do have a point there. lol I find it funny that Fi doesnt know there peak rating for there sub. Well thank you very much for all your info. If there is any additional things I should know please let me know lol. Thanks. And what good would this "peak rating" do? If they told you it took 2000 RMS and 4000 peak, would you put 4000 RMS on it? That's double their recommended RMS, so how would that make sense? Peak ratings, other than a marketing ploy, are sometimes used as a burp number. As in they may handle it for two seconds. If you put that amount on them daily they'll fry in no time. As for the 26k or whatever on four of them, that doesn't mean he's using all of the amplifier's power. He could only be using 8k and just be wasting the rest of the amps' capabilities.

Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it? it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is. put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains. "if not"- is that after it blows? haha

If the remote controls the 0-18 db @ 45 hz deal, that's a bass boost knob, not a gain. In that case I wouldn't use it.

I would say just try building a ported box as large as you can, even if it doesn't get up to the recommended 12.8 cubes. You still may like the sound of it. Plus if you don't, it should be easy to just chop the box in half and make it sealed.

No. Impedance has nothing to do with "harder" (whatever that is) or "deeper."

You should get the full price. Jerk is just trying to make more money on the raffle deal. He put up the sub from the beginning, which means he was prepared to let the full $560 go.

I have no idea what you just said.

Motel 6? I'm off to have a drink with my navy co worker budy. WOO HOO! Then later teach the W about kick boxing. I have a distinct feeling I'm going to get kicked in the guavas and that it might only look like an "accident". Better make her massage them afterward to make up for it.

It does matter. But unfortunately which + and - on which channel you use varies by company. But whenever I've looked at an amp, it has always been the outside terminals of the two channels next to each other. So if the channels are labeled Ch1 CH2 + - + - you'd use Ch1's + and Ch2's -. Vice versa if it's - +, - +. But don't quote me for sure. Easiest way would be to just email alpine.

Depends on wire size, what amp(s) used, and if you step down wire size with a distribution block.

http://editorial.autos.msn.com/media/video/default.aspx?cp-videoid=8a66aa5a-311c-4270-800d-5504f372197d\ WRX on trax

ooh 2 in a row. Just walked in and stole this one too.

Have I ever said how absolutely stupid and worthless I think "flex" videos are. Why the hell do I care and what is so special about seeing a body panel jump?

I would use fuses. Not only for the problem Brandon listed from the bcae1 website, but I've heard people say their circuit breakers develop a bit of a tolerance after being tripped several times. It starts taking more and more juice to trip it. I wouldn't want that.

Not necessarily.... When the wheel bearing finally went out on my Jimmy there was over 2" of play that I could move the wheel on.... the worst I've ever seen a wheel bearing before.... I know for a fact it was the wheel bearing as : 1. I had an alignment done at a local tire dealer right after I purchased it and they said the machine could see play in the wheel. 2. They said that everything else in the front end was tight. 3. The auto dealer I bought the truck from replaced the wheel bearing and everything has been peachy ever since. and 4. I've replaced more than a half-dozen wheel bearings in my short experience and the noise and associated problems from worn out wheel bearings are nearly all the same..... That being said, how did you get the idea that "if you jack up the car and there's play in the tire then its the ball joint." anyways just out of idle curiosity??? for that matter a loose wheel could be something as silly as loose lug nuts, and believe me that happens more often than you'd think.... Sorry if I came across sounding like a bit of an ass but I'm looking forward to finding out what is wrong with it..... I'm with you, back and forth play in a wheel while lifted is usually wheel bearing. The way I know to test for ball joints is to lift the wheel off the ground only an inch or two, then stick a bar under the tire and leverage it up. If the ball joint is bad, the tire/rim assembly will lift a bit as you lift up on the bar. If the ball joint is good it won't lift at all.

Probably has to do with where you're looking. People don't buy red tops for competition stereo systems. It was designed as a starter battery, and most people on these forums that are looking at a new battery want the biggest one they can put in. Plus I doubt that Optima has a forum anywhere, unlike other manufacturers, such as the one on here. You're going to hear the most about the products being supported on that particular site.