KU40

I'm not sure what color it might be on factory radios, but on aftermarket ones it's blue and I think with a white stripe. The solid blue one is for power antenna. If you have a voltmeter, you can just test the wire for a +12v signal. You should be able to eliminate all but a couple of them. Speaker leads should be color coded together, the two power leads should be marked or they might be a tad larger wire size, ground should be black. That should only leave you with a couple wires to try.

I would get a second 1500d

Yes, two 6" ports in that box is enough.

4" x 3.14 = 12.5 sq. in. each 6" x 3.14 = 18.8 sq. in. each If I'm not mistaken Except area of a circle isn's r*2, it's r^2. So the 6" port would actually be 9 * 3.14 = 28.3. I knew someone smarter than me would get here sooner or later. I see everyone talking about a areo ports the last couple days, so I was trying to brush up on the my math with google. Its been about 15 years since school for me. So I think this is correct , radius x radius x pi = surface area or as you wrote radius squared x pi = surface area? Thanks for the schooling KU40, I love to learn and I listen to anything you say. When calculating Areo ports do you add anything extra to the surface area for the flare or just calculate like a regular round port? While I'm at it do you know where to start measuring port lenght on a kerfed slot port opening? Thanks for the props, I try Aeroports are figured a little differently than regular round ports as far as length goes because the flares at the end do add a bit to the length. I don't know the amount offhand, but I'm sure you can find a calculator for it online somewhere. If not, my aero ports came with the equation when I ordered them from partsexpress.com. As for kerfed ports, I'm not sure. I've never messed with those before.

no

4" x 3.14 = 12.5 sq. in. each 6" x 3.14 = 18.8 sq. in. each If I'm not mistaken Except area of a circle isn's r*2, it's r^2. So the 6" port would actually be 9 * 3.14 = 28.3.

Just so you know, in case you didn't, you should be looking for a mono amp that puts out the power at 2 ohms. AFAIK all of hifonics mono amps are made for 1 ohm minimum operation.

I know you didn't ask the question. I was referring to the OP since he was the one who asked how it sounds.

What impedance are the subs and how do you have them wired?

If you're happy with the Soundstream I don't see a reason to change. If you want to try it, swap the amps and try it. It'll take 10 minutes. That'll give you a better answer than any of us could. As for info on it, I'm sure you can google it and find some. Arc is a decently respected amplifier brand, so it's not terrible.

It's an amplifier. It won't (or shouldn't) affect the sound at all. So asking how an amplifier sounds is not an appropriate question to ask. If he wanted to ask if they did rated power, were reliable, etc., those would probably be questions he's actually after. And the answer to both is no.

Not a newbie welcoming thread. Moving to Fi section.

So you are going to defend it? I don't like manufacturers who rate all of their equipment with meaningless max ratings. Nor would I trust a "1200" watt RMS amp that only costs $170.

He has seen his shadow like 100 out of the last 125 years. Bahumbug winter.

They don'y make bass louder. They just cut off the frequencies that the sub should not be playing.

Will do. I'm thinking about making some sort of frame around it and then bolt it to my car, but I'll check around to see what other people have done as well. My questions was actually how big difference it is between sealed and vented if you want to subs to hit hard at low frequencies. Because if a sealed enclosure could make the subs hit hard at 25-30hz, I would of course built it then a vented one. Cause I'm not looking to have a lot of sound pressure, my goal is a good sounding system with the ability to hit hard at low frequencies. Since I'm gonna use a 3200W rms amplifier I'll get some sound pressure either way. So I wasn't having that as a primary goal. I started this topic becuase I was afraid that if I made a sealed enclosure that it wouldn't play well on low frequencies. Quite a large one. Probably 6-10 more dbs over the 30-40 hz region with a ported box.

Figure it out yourself?

Yep, that's why the title is vented or backseats, like you said if I want to keep the backseats, I have to go with a sealed enclosure. So a vented enclosure plays better at 30-45hz, does music go much lower then 30hz? M5, why shouldn't I put them in a vented box tuned to 28hz? I guess if you're asking our opinion on if we would do the ported or keep the box sealed in the trunk, I'd say keep it in the trunk. But I'm sure my goals are different than yours so my opinion doesn't really matter. Good luck on the wall. Make sure to secure it to the floor really well.

That still doesn't make sense. If you have two 6 ohm speakers, in series they would be the 12 ohms you described before. But if you wired them in parallel they'd be 3 ohms. Even if you had speakers with different impedances, something like one 10 ohm speaker and a 2 ohm speaker in series would give you 12 ohms, but in parallel they'd be 1.66 ohms. So perhaps the answer to your question lies in the actual power each speaker is receiving, which is dependent on their impedance.

This is your decision to make. A ported box will give better results in the 30-45 hz range than a sealed box, but lag the sealed box below 25 hz most likely. So really it's up to you about if you want to use the back seat for a ported box or not, because you don't have room in the trunk for one for both subs. If you want to keep the subs in the trunk, sealed it will have to be.

what do you mean by that? There is nothing special about them, they will create sound. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone, not even for a paperweight. Don't listen to this crap. He's bias. I have heard single and dual set-ups for daily and competition set-ups and they are great. Subs are like food. Its mostly about preferences. Is his bias really any different than yours? They are both based on opinions, just like the food analogy you used.

How do you have two speakers that create a 12 ohm load in series but 6 ohm in parallel? Can't happen if they're SVCs.

Exactly what frequencies are you calling "deep bass?" If you want anything below 36 hz, that enclosure will not be ideal. Frequency responses in bandpasses roll off very steeply below tuning (not to mention the subsonic it will require).

If you want, you could get two 6" aeroports and make each 24" long. That would give you net of about 6 cubes and tuned to 30 hz. Aero ports help you need less port area without getting port noise and the ~57 sq. inches with those two 6" aeros is probably enough. But if you're more after loudness, 36 hz may work. You could try it both ways. Build your slot ported box first and test it out. If you think you want more lows, take the slot port out, replace the front baffle, and put in the aeros. But since the aeros are more expensive I'd save that option for last.

The individual coils are still the same impedance each, so they'll still see the same power relative to one another.