KU40

I take it there is no protection light on? Try using a different source for a signal to the amp, like an mp3 player. However, do not hook this up through the head unit and then to the amp. Patch it in directly to the RCAs, so you'll need a headphone jack/female RCA adapter if you unplug the RCAs behind the head unit. Or headphone/male RCA and hook straight to the amp.

The blood work from my physical came back good. I have low cholesterol, it's like 132. They didn't break it down into good and bad cholesterol, which I wish they did. My brother said he has low good cholesterol and that he thinks it runs in our family. But my red blood cell count is a tad low as well. Not sure why. But they said I may need to see an audiologist because the hearing test they did wasn't so good. Apparently my hearing starts rolling off decently under 1khz. But I think their test room was bogus. It was just a little telephone booth that was supposed to be soundproof, but wasn't. I could hear a number of mechanical grumbles. Plus their headphones sucked, they were just little things with a little bit of foam. I easily could not have had them in all the way. I'm not saying I may not have some hearing loss in low frequencies, I'm sure I do from this stereo stuff. I just don't think it's as severe as they think it is.

Leave the EQ alone. You are correct that the knob effects the width of the curve of frequencies adjusted by the bass boost. But since it is a bass boost, leave that knob all the way down. Then where you have the EQ set doesn't matter because you aren't using it anyway.

1) Attach power wire to each side of the fuse holder with fuse in it. 2) Behold your mastery of fuses. Just be sure to unhook the negative terminal from the battery first.

Have you checked the voltage with a DMM immediately after the alternator and each battery?

Actually, it is exactly that, a lack of will power. "You're powerless to your addiction." I heard that shit a hundred times a day. I can tell you've never been to a treatment center. I tend to agree. They made the choice to do the drug a first time, and a second, etc. You gotta think ahead. But that's why my advice was to be strong of mind and quit.

I did as well.

If you have the new winISD alpha, it is very specific in the order in which parameters are entered. Go to the help menu and read the tutorial on the order of entering parameters.

You can always run 4/0 or whatever to the amp and use a step-down adapter, or just trim wires going into the amp.

I don't understand addictions. But maybe just because I've never allowed myself to become addicted to anything since nearly everything you get addicted to is bad for you. Just be strong of mind and quit.

You have talked about this up-down almost random movement of the cone a number of times. Can you take a video of this occuring so we can see it? Hard to tell from your description. What is the box tuned to? If it was bought from a shop chances are it's tuned around 40 hz. Not too great for everyday listening.

If you mean subtract the volume of the port and then you'll have the true volume the woofers will be in, then yes. If it is an internal port, obviously.

Yeah it is, and I say good. Let's get to spring ASAP.

Ha, nice.

Their amplifiers are a decent product. The owner, however, is not a decent product.

When you want to turn it on just wire a small jumper wire from the power wire into the remote input.

Mounting vertically (with one end up) is actually the second best method of mounting the amp, next to laying flat. Obviously laying flat allows the heat to rise directly off of the amp. But mounting vertically allows the hot air to move smoothly up between the cooling fins. When mounted upright but horizontally (ends to left and right), the heat can get trapped a bit in the cooling fins since it has to move laterally out in one way or another when it's down at the base of the cooling fins. Air doesn't move laterally as well as vertically if heat is the only thing causing the air movement since it just wants to rise.

Moved to an audio section since this isn't off topic.

The remote adjusts the gain for you. But the max on the remote is just as high as the gain is set on the amplifier. So if you have the gain on the amp set at 50%, max on the remote will be that 50% gain. But if you turn the remote to 50%, it's like having the gain on the amp at 25%. The remote will only allow the signal to be as loud as the gain setting on the amp. So if you can't use all of the remote before the sub starts stressing, I would recommend turning the gain on the amp down.

Sucks we couldn't figure it out. I've never heard of this happening before. The weirdest part is that you can play both coils individually and it works.

Not necessarily recommending this, just throwing it out there to maybe help define what you want. I had a Crossfire EQ, I think it was 6 bands (something like 60, 120, 500, 2.5k, 8k, 17k) or something like that. It only had one RCA input. However, it did have a dedicated sub output on it and a sub volume control knob. It also had a balance knob to go from left to right. If you don't have rear fill then a balance control is all you might need anyways. It was a 1/2 din unit. I think it may have also had crossovers on it, like 50/80/120 hz highpass or lowpass on both RCA outputs. It didn't cost much, I think I got it for like 60 bucks on ebay. The sub line also had a 6-8v line driver, which I really didn't need, but it was there. So basically that's your option in small type EQs. If you want something more than that, you'll either need to go into 1/3 octave, or find a head unit with the adjustable EQ that you want like others have stated already.

Absolutely.

Hooray Friday

That looks right. But I'd use more than 216 sq. inches of port on four 18" BTLs. So if you make the port 45.5 x 7" tall it would need to be 16" long. about 25.5 cubes gross tuned to 33.

No need for a video. Like i posted earlier, this was how i wired the subs with the pos terminal always on the right for both terminals. I though that the sub was out of phase, so i wired it the way i was told and it play for a few seconds them stopped it didnt smell or anything. I used a DMM on one terminal and its reading anywhere from 0.2~65 yes 65 ohms. On the other terminal it now reads anywhere from 1.3~100 ohms. Tried going from pos on one side to neg on the other and it reads open. So am sure its all f#$ked up now. Guess now ill really have to get a recone. well positive on one side and negative on the other side would read open. They are different voice coils and not connected at all. Something is fishy about your DMM if the reading jumps around like that. And actually earlier you said positive on the left. Now you're saying positive on the right.