KU40

You'll have to elaborate on your definition of "wider side of the box." If you're talking about the baffle being wider in the x direction as you're looking right at the box, as in height stays the same, the port area shouldn't be affected. Either way, you can compensate to make the port area the same size. If the port will be taller, just make it less wide. So if you have a 25" tall x 4" wide port in a drawing but your box is only 20" tall, make the port 20" tall x 5" wide. Same 100 sq. inches of port either way.

Maybe 3,000 hz? Going to have to play with both the high and low pass either way (up or down) to get the best sound though.

A removable external slot would be difficult. At least I haven't seen a successful one. The best changeable slot ports i've seen have been internal, where a large hole was cut out of one baffle of the box, and port adapters with varying port sizes and lengths were inserted into the box and then fastened over the hole. The hardest part about the external port ordeal is trying to seal the port to the box. But probably an easier option would be to do a round port. If the port can fit inside the box length-wise, just cut out your 6" diameter hole and use the same size aeroport or whatever, and just interchange differing length ports to change the tuning.

I don't understand what you mean by if putting the port on the wider side of the box will affect tuning. If you keep port area and length the same, tuning won't change. But chances are the setup will be louder with the port facing the rear rather than forwards. I'd at least experiment once you get it in.

Man I haven't had much time to get on here the last couple weeks. Only spottingly at lunch at work, but I don't want to come into the IHOP there.

He could also be strapping some amps that are stable at 1 ohm strapped. Otherwise, there are several 3-4000 watt amps on the market, and 4-500 watt subs are not really " very low wattage." To the OP, yes 8 S4 can equal 2 ohms. You'd wire two subs in series, giving you essentially four 8 ohm subs. Then wire each pair of subs in parallel with the other sets for an overall 2 ohm load.

Why don't you get out your tape measure and go use it?

You can also trim the wires on the 8 gauge down if you need to. Nothing wrong with that.

Lower frequencies seem louder to the ear. Ported boxes boost lower frequencies. Therefore, ported boxes win.

D4. Wire each sub's coils in series, giving you eight 8 ohm subs. Then wire all 8 in parallel = 1 ohm.

No, you wouldn't want to put a 2009 Q and new Q together.

I forget if those subs have a vented pole. If they do, you'll need at least the width of the pole piece as clearance behind it. So if the vent is 1" wide, you'll need 1" behind the sub. But if the pole piece is not vented, you don't need to leave any room behind the sub and that 5/16 is fine.

WinISD just has you put in the net volume after port and sub displacement. So there won't be any error introduced like in BBP, which has to guess port displacement and may be off due to how you make the port or with what thickness of wood if slot ported. I would tune to 30-32 hz and trust winISD.

Your bench is really only 200? Kinda surprising for how much higher your other numbers are. Granted I'm not an all-knowing lifter by any means, but I don't think I could deadlift much more than my bench. Maybe I'm weird. I haven't deadlifted much though, still getting into it and have never maxed. I'm not trying to rag on you, I know I'm probably barely part of the 800-lb club if there even is such a thing. Probably not.

162 db.

I think in the beta version of winISD it wants you to keep it under 14 m/s, which is around 5% of the speed of sound. So a bit low perhaps. But I haven't tested various port designs and velocities to determine where a cutoff point might be. I'd say up to 10% or 30 m/s for a round number may be acceptable.

That box should be good. Expect the BL to not be as loud as the two L7s. It's hard to overcome that extra cone area, not to mention the box for the L7s was probably tuned higher than 32 hz, thus giving it an efficiency advantage. Prebuilt boxes to those specs are hard to find, most of the time the prebuilt boxes are tuned to 38-45 hz.

One thing I've seen done is getting those little plastic speaker baffles/enclosure things and cutting off the bottom half as you hold it horizontally. Think XTC baffles, but those are foam and I'm not sure if they're waterproof. But basically that makes an umbrella for the basket and motor while the open bottom allows the plastic thing to not act as an enclosure as they were designed to be, because that often stifles performance of the mid quite a bit. I'm not sure how well it works, just heard about it.

Yeah, winISD changed the alpha version a couple of months ago. You used to be able to put in whatever values you wanted whenever and it would calculate the ones you hadn't put in yet, but now it wants them in specific order. It took me a while to figure out that problem, too, which I solved by going to the help menu. But now I see your predicament with that option. Sucks that it won't work on windows 7. Kinda surprising considered the software was recently updated.

Supposed to be 77 today, WOW. Spring has finally arrived.

Put the speaker's parameters into a box building program such as winISD, and it'll tell you the QTC in a given enclosure.

You can always limit the output of an amplifier. So you can put a 10,000 watt amp on that sub and be fine.

Fantasy baseball draft yesterday was a blast. I had never done one before so I didn't know what to expect, but I stole some players near the end. My NCAA bball tourney brackets are doing well also. If Duke beats West Virginia, I get 1st (out of 33) in my office pool. If they lose I still get 2nd. So I'll get either 100 or 20 bucks, entry fee was 5 bucks. I'm also in a bigger pool that cost like 25 bucks, winner gets a grand, 2nd place gets 300. I can get 2nd place out of 75 if, again, Duke beats West Virginia. But Duke would then have to lose in the Championship to either Butler or Mich. St. since nobody picked either of those two to win it all but 3 people picked Duke. I think I'd get 5th if Duke won it all, which is just out of the money I believe.

What does your electrical system consist of? Might be low voltage. Did you just arbitrarily center all of the knobs?

OK have fun and good luck. Or is there a question or are you going to make a build log?