KU40

That is correct. But you still need to be careful. You didn't mention what, if any, options you got with the BL. The standard sub's RMS is 1000 watts, so it is still possible to blow the sub with 1200. Not to mention the power limitations that the box may place on it mechanically. Basically all I'm saying is don't set it this way and think it's bulletproof. You still have to listen for stresses in the sub.

Indeed it is. Too bad they put the steering wheel on the wrong side! I can't shift with my left hand!

You do not have enough posts to buy/sell on this site. This is also not the section to do it in.

That's what I've always done.

Whoops on my last post I meant mid instead of sub in "until the sub starts receiving too much power and overexcursion ensues." If you start from 80 hz with the highpass on the mids you can go either way. If they're overexcurting, either raise the HPF or lower the gain. If they are fine, you can either lower the HPF or raise the gain (provided the speaker isn't breaking up or at its limit).

If you have the sub facing up will you even still have the bracing in there? Seems to me if you put the sub in the middle of the topside, that would be where the brace is in that picture. Terminal cups are ok, just be prepared to caulk on the inside hole of the cup. Those things always leak air.

Don't seek advice from those "other people on the internet" ever again. Not only is 150 amps not too big, but 1/0 is the best wire size for your system. Any smaller and you would see some voltage drop, any bigger is most likely overkill.

Hahaha! I know the feeling! Just got the mountain bike out today and now I am paying for it! Nice bike btw! I just broke my bike out yesterday as well to ride to the gym to lift. It's so old and pathetic though, I REALLY need a new one. Both wheels have slight bends at certain points, which causes the front one to ever so slightly rub the brake once per revolution. But I can't adjust the brake width any wider because then the brake handle won't have enough travel to easily apply the brakes. Chain and gears are pretty rusty as well, had to apply some WD-40 before even attempting to take it out. Who knows how much increased resistance is aged into the thing, ha. Gets me in shape faster I guess though, right?

Your problem is not clipping. Cutting out is a better term. Clipping describes a signal wave shape, whereas in your case you are getting no signal at all. Is the amp going into protect when it cuts out? Couple possibilities- Insufficient ground (did you scrape off the paint at the grounding point and ground to a solid piece of metal?) Insufficient power supply. What size alternator and battery do you have? What size power wire? Is the voltage you see at 14v just your dash meter? If so, get a voltmeter and test directly at the amp's power and ground leads as the music is playing. Bad amp

Crossovers for you mids and highs are entirely driver and install dependent. Most of the time with mids the limiting factor is overexcursion, so what I do is turn the crossover up to 150 hz or so and start playing a song with pretty good midbass as loud as I would play, then slowly lowering the crossover until the sub starts receiving too much power and overexcursion ensues. Subsonic a few hz below tuning frequency if you're using a ported box. Lowpass on sub just where it sounds good. You'll have to have it blend with the mids, and the lowpass on the sub and highpass on the mids are how you achieve that. You don't want a lot of overlap, such as sub xover at 100 hz and mid xover at 60 hz. Nor do you want a lot of underlap, such as sub at 60 and mid at 100. But many subs don't play midbass very well, so you'll have to take that into consideration as well. Most of the subs I've listened to don't sound too great above 70 hz, at least compared to a mid. So it will be a balancing act between what the sub can play effectively as well as how low the mid can play.

The power wire that is always on is not connected to the right wire. You have two power wires, one that just goes straight to your battery and one that goes through the ignition. The one that's connected to the ignition turns the unit on when you turn the key on, the one that goes straight to the battery keeps power to the unit at all times so that your settings save. Check to make sure you have them connected to the right factory wires. They may not be the same color as the ones from your head unit.

The 2000D is a mono amp. There is no bridging. At all. Bridging is when you wire together two channels. Since the 2000D is a mono channel, it is a physical impossibility to bridge that amp. There are two outputs on the amp for ease of wiring, but using the + on one side and the - on the other is NOT bridging. Whoever said he is bridging that amp, if that's the same amp he's using, is wrong.

My box is tuned to 30 hz and I hear every note in "Put On" just fine. However I'm not sure I'd like to play that note with a tune much higher. The subsonic filter would have to be raised in that case, perhaps above the note in the song. I'm not sure what frequency it's at though.

That kinda contradicts the move towards higher fuel efficiency, doesn't it?

Looks like a European interpretation of the early Dodge Vipers. Super light weight, spartan features, and rough running high powered V8's. V12. I was going to say, I thought those had V-12s in them. The Speed-6s and Speed-12s are on the Gran Turismo game I have, perhaps a bit surprising for how rare they are.

Putting the port on that other wall won't change any geometry of the port. I don't even know what that would mean. Anyways, as I said, you can just compensate by changing the height of the port since you're changing the width. 22 x 5 = 110 sq. inches of port. 110 / 23.75 = 4.63. Therefore, put your port on that other side where you want it and make it 23.75 x 4.63 (5/8 is close enough and can be used just fine). Length of the port stays the same. This really isn't rocket science. Chances are you'll introduce more error into the system just by building the box than changing the port like this in the drawing stage.

Any idea if the RD 1000.1D can do it? If that's the case I'd be in good shape would just have to grab another one. If anyone knows of any good amps that are linkable let me know. Edit: Answered my own question the amp I have DOES have that capability which is awesome. Looks like I would just need another RD 1000.1D, if I were to go with the Avalanches. Anyone got any info on how EXACTLY to do this? I see you chain the amps through the rca's in turn sending the exact same signal to both, but what about power etc? Also, I imagine setting the gains perfectly to match would be difficult? What of all the options on the amps? Each amp may be different in how they strap amps. Your best bet would be to look in the owner's manual. But you hook up power and grounds the same, those never change. The only difference is usually in RCAs in that you wire from the head unit to the master amp, then output from the master to the slave. Then there should be a master/slave switch on each amp that you will have to have on the correct setting. Then you can use only the master's gain and control both amps. The ability to only use one amp's gain is the most helpful in this process, since if you wire up each amp to one sub individually you'll have to gain match the amps.

Your 4" port would need to be 43" long to tune it to 27 hz. That's about .3 cube worth of displacement. So the overall box with sub displacement would need to be about 1.5 cubes gross. The 3" port would displace about .1 cube. Would that extra .2 cube really be noticeable? But more of a problem would probably be getting the port to fit inside the box since it would have to bend so many times. That's where a slot port can help a bit, because it may be easier to bend a 1.25" wide slot port back and forth along the same side of the enclosure than a 4" round port. But I suppose with the round port you could run it from the front to the back wall, turn 90* and follow the back wall, then use a "U" shaped connector and run the port along the back wall again, just above the first port section.

What is your budget for an amp? Research "strapping" or "daisy chaining" amps. Both the same thing. Many 1,000 watt @ 1 ohm amps can do it, and they'll end up giving you 2,000 @ 2 ohms.

I've never experienced that with my Alpine deck. My first instinct was also to tell you that you are reaching the mechanical limits of the sub and it won't get any louder. But sounds like the fuse thing may have validity.

The first thing you need to do is figure out if the mid blew mechanically or thermally. That will tell you a lot from the get-go. Find out what he means by "bass enhancements targeted at the 120-150 hz range." To me that sounds like bass boost. We all know the issue with that.

I would agree that one 3" port would likely be too small. A single 4" flared port should be fine though, or maybe 15-20 sq. inches in a slot port.

An epic waste of money putting that many mids in there.

The final impedance load you can achieve with those two subs while having the most amplifier options is 2 ohms. Wire each sub's voice coils in series, then the two subs in parallel.

This is dumb. Everybody, stop asking how many DBs you'll hit. Nobody knows. Each different woofer isn't capable of only having specific output.