KU40

Taking care of the gf's cat while she's gone for the early part of this week. Have to go over there and feed her twice a day. In the morning she wants nothing to do with me (as usual) and will run away when I try to pet her. But come afternoon when I get off of work and stop by on my way home, her attitude has changed. She wants to play and will rub up against my legs and will lay on her side expecting me to rub her neck and side. Hmm, reminds me of my ex-gf. She was terrible in the morning.

There was a running marathon through Lawrence yesterday morning. As I was fishing I heard some people run by and one lady asked the guy where he was from, and he said Minnesota.

I went to the doctor this morning. The knee was a little more stiff and sore when I woke up but I wasn't sure if that was just from being immobile all night and if the bit of extra swelling from not being iced. The PA ran me through some leg bends and things to test for ligament damage but surprisingly they didn't hurt. So seems it's just a strain, though with where the one tender spot is when she was prodding around, she said it's possible to have a slight meniscus tear. Only an MRI could confirm though. We decided to just do some easy treatment for a week to see if it gets better- ice, ibuprofen, and elevation. If it's not better in a week it's more likely that a tear of meniscus could have occurred and we'll schedule an MRI. However even with meniscus tears it's usually only the more severe ones that get operated on. So it appears that I dodged a bullet. I was kinda scared there for a while last night even though I was decently sure it was only a strain. Oh and to answer other questions, I guess it was a bit of a soft pop, maybe just a click? It wasn't real loud, I don't think anybody else heard it. Got ice on it immediately though, and never really got swollen. Just a tad, hardly noticeable.

So remote wire from HU to relay, relay to barrier strip, barrier strip to your amps. What role does the jumper play? I'm a little lost. Also, there's another thing I'm confused about. The remote turn-on from inside the dash mates up with the turn-on lead from the head unit. So at what point do you put the relay in? Car audio really pisses me off, but I love it so much. There is no remote from inside the dash. Are you sure you're not looking at the power antenna wire? Both are blue from the head unit, it's just that one has a white stripe and the other doesn't. If you do not have any electronics that need to be turned on by the remote wire already installed, the remote wire from the head unit should not be attached to anything. You would put the relay on the remote wire from the head unit.

What size is your stock alternator? The language in this thread is pretty bad. Everybody please make sure and type in good sentences and with full words, that way everybody can understand what you are saying.

If a screw won't attach onto the magnet, it was not magnetized. And do you mean both read 0.8 ohms? They can't each read .08 and then 1.6 together.

What you mean by "tune"

That's because Topeka has been going downhill as a whole for years. This is true. I'm so glad we decided not to move there. Heck yeah. I work there as well but decided the commute from Lawrence was worth it.

I think that box sounds about exactly right for an xcon. What amp are you mating with it?

You get pain when you move your LEG inward or try to bend your KNEE inward? I good way to test, sit down and elevate your leg, have someone press on your knee to keep it from moving and puch on your foot, outside to inside with a little pressure, and vice versa. If you feel unbearable pain or your leg actually bends more than 1/4" or so get your LCL looked at, as it's probably slightly torn. When i try to bend my knee inwards. It's a bit stiff this morning.

turn that boost all the way to the left. Pronto. LF frequency should only be 1/4 of the way up. High pass frequency shouldn't even be on there unless that is for pass-thru RCAs to hook up another amp to?

Sounds kinda like the coils are wired out of phase with each other. Take a small 9v battery and hook it up to each coil. If the sub moves outward, you have the positive on the battery hooked to the positive on the sub. If it sucks in, you have the positive wired to the negative on the sub.

There's nothing wrong with using the winISD graphs. They give you a good representation of how one box will make the sub respond relative to another. You just can't use them for absolute numbers for what you'll see once you put it in an environment. Like if winISD says that the -3db point on box A is 25 hz and on box B is 20 hz, you can rest assured that box B can play lower than box A. The only thing you can't do is say "winISD SPL graph says this will hit 135 db, so it will," or that the frequency response graph is right on. Cabin gain and room acoustics will shift the response. However, if there is a big hump in frequency response on the graph just above tuning, it's relatively certain that the box will exaggerate frequencies right above tuning.

That's because Topeka has been going downhill as a whole for years.

Yeah there should be either a toggle switch for normal or bi-amping operation, or in the case of my JL XR components, there is a jumper inside the case that you just have to switch over.

Just be careful, gains low doesn't necessarily mean the sub isn't getting much power. Gain setting is completely dependent on the input voltage from the head unit. If you have 6 volts coming down the RCAs, chances are you need the gain all the way down. I'm not saying you're wrong in turning it up, just take note if the sub is stressing with the higher gain setting.

Money has to be cut somewhere, and an easy short term cut is maintenance. Bingo. I forgot to put that in my last post, but that's a big issue as well. Nearly every state has budget deficits, and nearly every big city does as well. Texas is actually one of the best states right now for least fiscal problems, maybe even the best, I'm not sure. States and municipalities are losing a lot of money on lower income tax/sales tax/property tax/etc. Until the economy gets better, this is what we have. I'm not disagreeing with you that roads are bad or that you can't vent. There are potholes everywhere here as well, and I hate them just as much as you do. I worked in a tire shop so I know exactly what one pothole can do to the alignment of a car. But short of winning the lottery and giving it all to road maintenance, there's nothing we can do.

fuck fuck fuck. I need help from doctors in here, most specifically Aaron since he just went through this (and Peng?). I hurt my knee today in kickball. I was rounding second when the ball got in faster than I expected and planted my feet to turn back but my right leg didn't rotate and my knee went left as my body was going back right and got bent sideways. I heard a small pop (obvious danger sign), but it wasn't excruciating pain. I laid there for a minute trying to figure out what was what, and surprised that it didn't hurt more and I could move it pretty well. I got up and walked off slowly. I can walk ok on it and can bend it fully both backward and forward. It's only when I have any inward motion with the knee does it sting. I got ice on it right away and have been on/off with that. Swelling isn't much if any. I've heard that people know when they tear ACL/MCL/etc., but I'm not sure. It doesn't really feel like it but I dunno. The pop I heard scares me, but most of the feelings I get are that it's just a sprain/hyperextension and I've heard pops on my ankles before and they've just been sprains. The pain feels kinda under the inside edge of my kneecap. I've injured myself plenty before but have always just felt annoyed/frustrated that I'd miss sport time or whatever. But I've never hurt a knee before so this is uncharted territory and kinda scary to me. I know that go see a doctor would be a first response but I don't really like them. Not that I don't think they're helpful or have had bad experiences or whatever, I'm just stubborn. If it's all swollen, painful, or movement is limited in the morning I'll probably go see one. Just sucks that I have a basketball game tomorrow and I can't play because of dumb kickball. It's like what's his name from the NFL who missed a couple games because he fell getting out of the shower or whatever.

If they're in separate chambers then you're fine and don't need to take the second sub out. And I don't take offense, I probably should have elaborated in my last post. Basically with only one sub hooked up in a chamber meant for two subs, that one sub is seeing twice the volume of the box that it should. Even though you may have a (example) 2 cube box with 2 subs, when both subs are playing, each sub only "sees" 1 cube itself. However, if only one sub is playing, it "sees" all 2 cubes. Mechanical power handling decreases as box size increases because the air spring behind the sub is not as tight. As a sub plays and the cone moves, it compresses the air within the box. The more air that's in the box, the more the cone of the sub has to move to compress the air to the same pressure. Does that make sense? The compressed air within the box is acting against the cone of the sub as it moves inwards, towards the inside of the box, therefore helping to limit the excursion of the sub. Likewise, when the cone moves outwards, there is actually less pressure within the box than there is in the outside world, so that helps to suck the cone back in. However, if there is more air within the box, the sub can move farther because the pressure within the box is not building as high on the instroke and does not put as much counteracting force on the back side of the cone. To view an easy example of this take a sub out of a box and play it free air and note how high you can turn the volume knob before the sub has reached full excursion (warning, be careful as this will be with very little power). Then place the sub into the box and notice how much higher you can turn the volume knob (power) before the sub reaches full excursion. The free aired sub is the extreme of having no back pressure on the cone at all, so it moves very easily and is only dependent on the surround and spider of the sub to keep the cone from just flying off.

Kenwood's lower lines are shit. With them it's either Excelon or nothing.

You can't have a sub that will wire to both 2 ohms and 1 ohm. With the way it's wired now, you either have 2 or 1, and you can't change it to 1 ohm if it's 2. That is unless you sent it into DD, in which case I imagine what the guy was referring to was a recone, where they'd change the coils all together. That's why it costs $120. Get a multimeter and check the resistance of the coils. Only way for anybody to help you.

If those subs are in a shared chamber, do not hook only one up at a time. Very easy way to kill a sub mechanically.

Everywhere has potholes this time of year. Freeze/thaw cycles kill roads, especially in a lot of the midwest where this happens every day (freeze at night, thaw during day) for 3 months of winter. And like you said, if they fix them during the winter their repair is likely to just mess up a day later anyway. There's not a whole lot that can be done.

If you already have the subs and box, why not just hook it up to figure out if they sound good for yourself? Though chances are that box is tuned to like 42 hz so that will severely limit how good they can sound. But as far as I knew before this, Obcon just made boxes. I doubt they're anything special, but I'm sure they'll play music. Whether they last depends on how you use the volume knob and power on tap.

Yes. The port needs to be of uniform size throughout the port length. Maybe a round port would be easier, unless you were thinking of putting the port opening on a different face than the sub was on (like the side).