KU40

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power. What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire? I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator. I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha. But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all. Just curious about the wire since my Knu speaker wire from that kit looks like it's starting to corrode inside but the power/ground wires still look good. It's crazy to think about how little power is really used when you get into higher frequencies...fractions of a watt... Yeah the exposed power wire in the ring terminal at the battery was corroded when I switched the setup into my new vehicle, but I just cut it off and put a new terminal on newly exposed wire. The wire still inside the insulation looked good as new. DPAW, there is absolutely no reason to use 8 gauge wire as speaker wire. That stuff is like $2/ft, and you have to buy twice as much since you have to use individual runs for + and -. 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire works perfectly fine and it's like $1/foot for two wires connected together. Save yourself $20 and get regular speaker wire. I guarantee there will be no difference.

Yep, you got the wrong coils on the sub I'm afraid. You'll only be sending the sub 750 watts with the coils wired in series.

Start with something insanely basic. 1 cup of this Bodybuilding.com - NOW Dextrose Powder - Corn Sugar! On sale now! With one scoop(provided in the tub) of this Bodybuilding.com - Syntrax Nectar - Best Tasting Protein! On sale now! That syntax looks good, and the dextrose is cheap, I may just try some out. I have some protein poweders building up at my place but they are cheap lol Nectrar tastes good. Like fruit. I always got apple myself. I used to take plain yogurt and add a scoop of the nectar product and that would be a really good breakfast. Then I got cheap as I was going through so much protein with 3 shakes a day so I switched to sci fit. It didn't taste half as good but it is dirt cheap. Thankfully I have always had an iron stomach and no protein ever bothered it. Some guys I knew could only have specific types that cost big $$$$. Is it bad to mix the protein powder with milk instead of water? I've found that it makes it taste 1,000 times better. I know it's lactose and not glucose, so a bit different sugar and perhaps not optimal? However, I've also found that it basically makes it impossible to do any more workout afterward because the milk just sits in my stomach and gives me a sideache. I'm not an advanced supplement guy, I only do the simple whey protein powder right after I lift.

ok, no posting 17 year old girls in here. We like them legal.

My cousin was on that rig a few months ago. I don't believe it was when it was where it caught fire, but when it was drilling a hole over by Alabama. That's the rig that set the world record for depth with a little over 35,000'. My grandma has a picture of him with that number spray painted on the rig on her refrigerator.

Yeah no joke.

If you have winISD or some comparable box program, pull up the same sub in both a sealed and ported enclosure. The low frequencies that a sealed enclosure excels over a ported one are LOW. As in, sub-25 hz. Otherwise Orion is wrong, perceived loudness is definitely louder in ported boxes with 99% of music, because most of the "low" bass in songs is in the 30-50 hz range, where ported boxes bloat the frequency response and crush sealed boxes for SPL. Those frequencies are the ones usually perceived to be louder to humans.

8-9 volts should not happen and not only means death for your amp in many cases if it does not go into protection, but it can damage various other OEM electronic components in your vehicle as well. You're confusing the resistance number you're seeing on the DMM for the sub with the impedance that the amp will see. Amplifiers are rated for nominal impedance, in your case 2 ohms. Your sub is dual 1 ohm nominal impedance, so when you wired it in series you have a nominal 2 ohm load for the amp, exactly matching its specs. Resistance is a DC measure, impedance is AC. Chances are highly probable that you fried the amp with low voltage. Do NOT get a Sundown 1500D until you fix the voltage problems, as it will have the same problem. Don't worry about comparitive efficiencies in class D sub amps as it normally has little net result. If the Kicker is 85% efficient (about average for a class D) and the Sundown is 90%, the difference is that the Sundown will draw 120 amps @ 14 volts to make that power while the Kicker will draw 126 amps. When you already have voltage problems that drop it down to 8-9 volts, that 6 amps is not going to matter at all. Also, unless you get a recone, you won't be using a Sundown 1500D at its full potential since it is rated down to 1 ohm. You will only get about 800 watts at the 2 ohms you have the BL wired to. Where is your ground wired to? Make sure it's in a very good spot.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power. What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire? I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator. I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha. But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all.

Would be helpful if you put what you're looking for pictures of in your topic title.

If you use the media player to play all of your music, then yes, use that to set the gain.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

The XXX drivers also have quite low FS, lower than probably 98% of other car audio drivers. And are also low Q drivers. So which of these individual parameters makes it a low end monster, and why did you choose xmax to represent it as such? The thing is just that xmax is soooo easy to market because you see a subwoofer move. To 99% of people buying a subwoofer, more movement = better in their eyes.

There is a gain setting tutorial on this site, in this amplifier section in fact. If you don't want to do all that and just want the simple way of how I do it, turn the head unit up to as loud as you'd listen to it, then slowly turn the amp gain up from the lowest setting until the subs stop getting louder, start making funny noises, or stop moving out as much. Normally it's the funny noises that you'll hear. But step back a few feet when you listen (with the trunk open), as it's easier to hear distortion from a bit of a distance.

You would still only need one run of remote wire from the relay to the back of the car, as the back is where you'd put the barrier strip. But either way works. Not that I don't agree with you, since if you're like me you use a power wire from your distribution block to power the relay, and that's in the back of the car. So you'd have to run a wire for that to your dash if that's what you used for power. Same thing with ground wire if you use a distribution block for it with multiple amps in the back (or if you just want to ground to the same place with all of your electronics).

I just read the same thing on a few places. And I was just suggesting it may not be suitable, not everyone wants to be affiliated with illegal ripping, I mean I have done it and gotten caught, and paid a lot to get out of it, just looking out so no need to be defensive. Not getting defensive at all. People talk about a lot of stuff other than car audio. There is a thread about liquor above mine, does that mean SSA is affiliated with booze? As stated before, I'm not recommending anyone take part in anything, or aiding them in doing so. Just telling people about a letter I got in the mail. Edit: This is also on the front page, guess that means SSA is affiliated with anorexia. #1: Alcohol is not illegal. #2: That girl does not look very anorexic to me. I think her abs are just defined a little differently. Her legs look nice. #3: You asked for other ways to keep from getting caught in your very first post "Any other ideas on what I can do to protect myself?" SSA does not condone this practice.

Chances are you're getting full power out of that amp just fine, it's just hogging a tad more current to do it since the voltage drops. The only thing you're likely to notice with big 3 upgraded is less dimming.

It plays a part. But so do other factors, including fs and other parameters, and box design.

You will be disappointed with 2 Qs sealed. You don't go from a ported box to sealed box and expect more output. One ported sub is often louder than 2 sealed subs, especially when going from Fi's moderate SPL sub to their SQ sub.

Not a lot of air flow under a seat. That's probably the reason. It should be fine though.

If it were me, I'd use 2 gauge or even 1/0. Fuse can be any size up to the current carrying capacity of the wire. If you got 4 gauge or bigger, either 90 or 120 would be fine.

BTW, in case somebody somehow forgot, Aaron is a great dude.

That's a pretty good mate for that sub. Not much more you can get out of either sub or amp. Are you not satisfied?

Holy cow it was so awesome outside today. 70* and barely a breeze. I love the spring time, not only for the sweet intermediate temperatures but the rains too.