KU40

you may have input some of the parameters wrong. look at the units and make sure they're right. to change them you just have to click on them and they'll change, like from feet to inches to cm, etc. and to screen capture, push print screen, then open up paint or something and push control + v to paste it in. then you can save it.

can you do a screen capture and show me that peak at 200 hz? did you put in the parameters for the sub or just use one of the subs already in there? Also, make sure the box volume you put in is after sub and port displacement. i.e.- don't put in 11.27 cubes into the box in winisd, you have to put in the 9.3. it doesn't subtract out the displacement for you.

why would the cooling option be necessary? wouldn't they put it on all of the woofers if it really was? Many, many woofers before this one survived without it. I don't know why you think you have to go to 18s just because you're only using 2 and your previous setup used 4 15's. 2 great 15s can easily sound better and/or be louder than 4 average 15s. and besides, if the BL's have twice as much xmax as the cvrs then you aren't losing any displacement anyways. I don't know if they do, I'm just saying. and that's not to mention other differences that could increase efficiency on the BL or any other aspect of the sound. are those amps strappable? if so then you can just wire the subs together to both amps and not worry about a divider.

i use winISD pro alpha. but in this circumstance it's kinda backwards since you already have the box size and are trying to fit the port in it, so getting the port length and box volume are a bit tricky. You kinda just have to plug in a box volume, find the displacement of the port, then subtract that from the gross volume and see if the net volume you put in matches. If it doesn't, adjust the box volume in the program, get a new port length, and try again. etc. etc.

what's wrong with what he asked? That doesnt' eliminate the BL right away. just because he "only" has 750 watts, instead of the 1000 watts RMS that it is? You don't have to run it at full RMS. And why wouldn't the BTL work? He said he'd step up to 2000 watts for it, so it would be just fine power-wise under your power restriction idea. why do you think a Q or Icon would be better? That all being said, the BTL would be louder off 2000 watts than the BL on 750 given a relatively equal setup. The BL may sound a bit better.

I don't really know a lot about different brand of tv, but in general I like LCD over plasma. Plasma just doesn't look as real to me. Our tv downstairs is a 50" I think, maybe a.......Sony? It's pretty good.

jeez I can't believe I forgot to take out the port displacement. Guess it's been a while since I designed a ported box. idiot. anyways, I get 41 inches long. that will drop your internal net volume down to 7.2 cubes, though, which I'm sure is less than you want. however, you're also violating the 9:1 port width:length ratio with your 44.5 x 3.5 port opening. This might give you some grief with the port not acting the way you want. I'd say you could drop the width down to something like 30" x 4". that would also make your port less deep because of the smaller port area. You'd need to make it 21" long in that case, and your internal volume would rise to 9.3 cubes.

I get about 23.5 inches.

I think I could drink a gallon of gatorade within even 30 minutes after I play basketball. At least I'd down those 64 oz. gatorade bottles pretty easily, and I'd just have to do one more. sometimes I down those 32 oz'ers in about 30 seconds. it just goes down so easy. but that may be kinda cheating since I'm a bit dehydrated after bball, I dunno. and yeah topgun, that storm is upon us now. I have a feeling I might sleep through it, though. I'm so tired right now and about to go to sleep and it'll get here in about 15 minutes.

is it really that much? Looking at a milk jug it seems like it would only be maybe 4. dang.

I know you were joking about this and I don't think this was your intention, but I just wanted to point out that athiesm and agnosticism are not similar. Athiests don't believe in the existence of a god or gods, while agnostics think that the existence of god cannot be proven OR DISPROVEN. Gebrochen- if you read the disclaimer at the bottom of that article it states that while these statements were made by officials, they were probably taken way out of context. Which shouldn't be surprising, that's the media's favorite game.

Mine don't hit the panel, but like I said it's close. and they only have a few mm of excursion, not 20+ like the big subs. But of course there are drivers like the Adire Extremis that I think have something like 10 mm excursion, but like I said you just have to plan for that. I was able to use spacers because mine wouldn't hit, but you may not be able to. so that's another thing to keep in mind when figuring out the depth you can use.

it's my gf's birthday today, so we're going out to eat with her family, then going to see Indiana Jones, then hot tub. and probably camping sometime this weekend.

most midbasses made for car use don't require enclosures because they know that you'll most likely be putting them in doors, which are usually IB. But if you have the room for enclosures up front, they'll help a little. But for your blazer........hmm. you could do something like a dedicated midbass in the doors in the factory spot, then keep your 4's up in the dash to handle midrange and treble. Might not be ideal for imaging to have them separated like that, but it would likely give you the most midbass for the easiest install. You'd want to make sure and sound deaden your doors, and cover up all of the holes on the door skin (not the ones on the bottom of the door that let water drain out), as this will create a true IB situation and you'll get much better response. You may want to measure the depth you have available in the door. Some door-mounted speakers have a problem with hitting the window on the inside. You may also want to measure outwards from the speaker location to see if you can fit a spacer in there to give you more depth behind the speaker. You'll just have to see how far you can go forward before you hit the door panel. Like in my explorer, i just made some 3/4" baffles and the extend my speakers out so that they almost touch the panel but allows them enough room for the basket and motor to not hit my window.

for that range midbass drivers are what you want, not subs. what are your other speakers in the car?

I've got factories in the rear doors now, powered by a couple channels on my Crossfire VR404 (just wired it in when I did my fronts, just in case I'd upgrade in the future. easier all at one time). But I love the midbass kick, and I want more. Would it be ok to get some good midbass drivers and put back there? How high in frequency does it need to go before it gets directional? maybe 60 up to 250 hz or so ok? I also need some suggestions, probably 6.5". something that isn't any deeper than my JL XR 6.5's in front, but I'll have to look up their dimensions. I'm also thinking about ditching the ported box that my SI D2 is in, maybe try sealed. But I hate giving up the extra few db's, but I also love low end and sealed is better for that. so who knows. I've also just had the idea of getting 4 8's, but........arg. too many ideas! let's just stick to the midbass for now, ha.

I thought I'd read/heard a number of times that bass is omnidirectional until you get up into the midbass stuff, or a couple hundred hz. I don't really know where i'd put them up front. I like the stock door look of things and my big feet would get in the way of kick panels. cripes.

but you forget that this only happens for like one week a year. the other 51 weeks you just have to lick your own nuts. but no, I don't believe in it. Could it be possible, sure, anything's possible. But I tend to not believe until I see.

nvm, finally found it. brake light switch. I'm glad it's only a 10-15 dollar part! but I read to try spraying the hinge with wd-40 first, so I'm going to try that.

Today a dude pulled up next to me at a stoplight and said my brake lights don't work. So I come home and mess around and find out that the sensor that's attached to the brake pedal isn't doing it's job correctly. It seems like when I push the brake pedal it doesn't trip the sensor. I can push up the sensor and it turns my brake lights on. So do I need a new one or can this one just be adjusted somehow? and what's it exactly called anyways, since I've been trying to look it up online and can't find the part?

oh whoops, I forgot that I have two of the channels idle, so actually I could bridge the amp! I have another 2 channel amp powering my front stage. So I could get 200 watts @ 4 ohms. Assuming the other 2 channels work.....I think they do, haven't used them........ever, maybe.

you work for the state right? Maybe your place is just different than mine. We have a nice older lady that you go and get a form from, fill it out, hand it back to her, and in a few days you have a check in the mail. I've done it twice and have never had a hassle.

because an amplifier will put out full power with a .1 volt signal the same way it will with a 10 volt signal if you set the gain accordingly. So there should be no advantage in using a line driver.

very nice

well it's not like they're going to be quiet or barely audible. They may only be a db or 2 lower than other subwoofers that are more oriented to SPL. With only 450 watts you may not even notice a difference, as most big time SPL woofers are made to handle big power, over 1000 watts at least, which helps them get loud. I only had 200 watts on my SI D2 for a bit and it was still plenty to blur my vision and give good chest thumps.