KU40

The amp's crossover probably sucks.

Maybe they recorded the bass at different levels on the different songs. Maybe it's at -3db on the one song, but -6db on the other.

gain at 85% is pretty high. What is the signal input voltage from the head unit and what is the range of acceptable input voltage on the amp? What volume and out of how many possible notches do you turn your head unit's volume to? What impedance is the sub and how is it wired? You say "subsonic is at middle frequency," well tell us what that frequency is, along with the lowpass filter.

read the help section. That's...... helpful.

12

12 gauge wire.

I don't understand why people use drills to put screws for subs in boxes. If you have a guide over the screw and drill head I guess that's fine. But man, give me a screwdriver any day. That's the way I've always put my screws in. Sure it takes 5 minutes longer and you actually have to use some arm muscles, but it's so much easier to control and I have never even slipped once.

I usually go for port area equal to 1/3 of the cone area with a box that plays music and adjust from there based on what the software has to say about vent velocity. edit: glanced over the Sd the first time I looked over the specs. Silly me. Looks like an 18. I agree with Adrian, about 1/3 seems like a good number. I've never thought of it that way, but when I think of average area for each size, I say about 30 inches for a 12, 50 for a 15, and 80 for a 18. Those end up being about 1/3 Sd. I only have about 40-45 on my 15" SI mag I think, for box fitting reasons in my old car's trunk. I wish I had a bit more though. But I don't care enough to build a new box now.

There isn't much difference. Won't be noticeable at all. Though some people say that you should always wire voice coils in series and subs in parallel if possible. That's usually what I do. I think it's easier anyways.

You don't need the sub to figure out port specs. The woofer has nothing to do with how a box is tuned.

I don't understand why you grounded the toggle switch. Is the switch on a power wire or a ground wire from the head unit? If it's from a power wire, you can't ground it and expect it to work. Perhaps you're supposed to hook the other side up to the power source for the e-brake light so that there is power going through the wire whenever the e-brake is engaged?

Could be the picture, could just be that they have a lot higher tuning. I don't understand what you mean by "these that are 28" w x 6" h x 4" long?"

No, it won't. Going from 3000 to 3500 watts will yield, oh......maybe .5 db.

I hope you didn't void your warranty by opening the amp up. A lot of manufacturers specify that. I would guess the white stuff is non-conductive glue to hold the mosfets in place.

Also, that head unit may have an option to turn off the internal amplifier. If so, you'll have to turn the internal amp back on.

Yay weekend.

Probably 50-100 watts per channel.

Larger boxes are more efficient. But you have more than enough power to unleash the full potential of the SSD in the box that you have. Will you see an overall SPL increase? Maybe, if you truly compare 800 watts to 800 watts in the two boxes. But if you're already reaching the limits of the driver in the box you have, you won't see an increase. However it will play lower, which may give the perception of being louder. It will be maybe 1-3 dbs louder between 30 and 40 hz. With this setup you won't be able to notice a difference between 3/4 and 1" wood. And no, you can't make two ports 22" long. That's not how it works. But you also don't need anywhere near 50.75 sq. inches of port for a single 12" SSD. Lower it to something like 2" wide x 14.5" tall, and the required length will drop considerably.

It may have premium sound. to test, take out the head unit and hook a speaker you have laying around to one of the speaker outputs on the head unit. If it plays, there are factory amps that you have to bypass and it would probably be easier to just run new wire from the head unit to each speaker.

You have to upload your pictures onto the web somewhere. You actually have a gallery here that you could upload your pictures to. Go to the top of the forum page and click on the "gallery" tab, find your name, and upload into your own folder. Then just insert the link from that photo location into a post here (with the image tags of course). By the way, you can still install all of that equipment and run it just fine. You'll just have to keep the gain conservative and only give the sub maybe 500-1000 watts, or whatever your electrical system can support without the voltage sagging below 12. You may not get the full potential of the setup, but at least it will be something to listen to. That power range should give you plenty of volume anyways.

Do you have room for a second alternator? Maybe you could build a mounting bracket, get a larger pulley, and just add a second stock alternator.

Why don't you just get some 18s or whatever that will fit? And if you're doing all this, why not just wall it? But most likely in a non-wall situation, either subs and port up, subs up port back, or subs/port back will be best. Anything forward in an SUV is basically never better unless it's walled.

Yes. As long as the sub represents a 4 ohm load or higher.

Happy birthday!

There's nothing wrong with doing it, it doesn't inherently hurt the speaker. Yes it will halve the speaker's power handling, and change several of the speaker's T/S specs. And yes, woofers are that inefficient.