KU40

I have some vanilla ice cream stuff, don't remember the brand (used it last summer). But it was so awful with water that I thought I was going to throw it back up a couple times. Then I decided to try milk and holy crap it was 100,000,000 times better. Actually tasted like vanilla ice cream that way. It became so easy to drink, I almost would drink it just for the heck of it whenever I felt like it.

dang those engine graphics are crazy. Rearranged my room today. No small feat apparently, even with the gf helping. It's been over 5 hours and I still have a few things to put away and hook up. Made sure to get the 2.1 stereo w. the lego box sub hooked up first though, ha. that way I can have some tunage for the rest of the time. But then I just kinda wandered onto this site as I was listening and setting up the Behringer crossover, ha. Now I'm stuck and not getting any work done.

with a big box and that much power, that sub should be blowing itself on that song because the last notes go down to 20 hz or lower I think. I'd check the amp. Is there a subsonic on the amp? Is it turned up too high? Is the regular low pass crossover set correctly?

That thing probably doesn't have more than an 90 amp alternator. I'd change that before the battery. That will have a bigger influence on your overall system voltage during bass hits than a battery.

man, looks like it's just going to rain all day. Oh well, wasn't going to do anything except be a couch potato anwyays. Does anybody know how much that mortgage insurance is for if you don't put 20% down on a home? I figure it depends on amount borrowed, let's just say 100,000 for roundness example.

I like bottom-mounting. Seems to give less in-room troubles as far as hot spots. As for a sealed box, 5.5 cubes will give you a QTC of .717, -3db point of about 31 hz.

just fyi, the mag uses xbl^2 too. Atlas is a respectable woofer though.

You'll always get a spark at the fuse. That happens whenever you put a positive charge to something metal. However, it's always better to have that spark be at the fuse than at the amp.

right

I'd do Stereo Integrity.

I think it's ok to quote the price since he listed it in a thread on the SI forum. Didn't he say (or at least estimate) that it would be 250 shipped?

You REALLY wouldn't like the ass end then. I was going to say, I think the front looks good but I bet the back looks awful. Just kinda get a hint of it in that picture. I hate those scrunched looking asses.

I'd try out the new mag. But that may just be me.

Man I got demolished by KU's middle linebacker today while playing basketball. Dude is like 6'2", 250 lbs of pure muscle. I'm not small, 6'3", but only 180 lbs. I wish I was shorter today, though, so that the two elbows he spun into me with would have landed in my chest instead of my stomach. Got the wind knocked out of me twice and I couldn't even run for about 5 minutes. It's still tender to even the slightest touch. Dude is a monster though. I'll be watching him next year for sure.

you just admitted abusing them and you want them covered under warranty?

humans are the best adaptive organism in the world, besides maybe bacteria. We can live in any climate and are smart enough to find or make life's basic essentials pretty much anywhere. Almost everything that can happen to earth has already been done, and some kind of animal survived. I'm not too worried about the continuance of the human species. Probably the only things that could do us in is an asteroid that completely demolishes the earth or the sun engulfs us. Somebody would survive a nuclear winter.

I believe that's what I've heard. I used a red top as my starting (and only) battery in my last car, and as soon as the battery in my Explorer goes, I'm replacing it with a red top as well. It's been a couple years since I've last discussed this, but the consensus was that red top is good for primary battery and yellow is better as a secondary. That's not to say the yellow top couldn't be your primary. It may also depend on if you play your stereo a lot with the car off. In that case it might get a little blurry as to which one you'd want. However I will say that when I was taking my stereo out of my last car with the red top, my vehicle lights were on for probably 8 hours because I didn't disconnect the battery. and when I went to start it, it was as if it didn't even know it had been discharging. started right up without so much as a half-hiccup.

I didn't mean to make it sound like I thought they were useless. I know they are helpful in many situations, and just because I don't use mine doesn't mean others shouldn't. To go along with the slopes you mentioned, I'm pretty sure I've seen a 36 db/octave slope on an amp somewhere........ I have never been to a bassrace. I really only competed a little bit for about two years, and that was 3+ years ago. I think that was before the bass race idea caught on. When they kept raising the price of admission I just decided it wasn't worth it, and I haven't been to a competition since. Nor have I kept up on all of the rules of the various organizations. I try to stay out of competition discussions because of this, and unfortunately the ones I do get into (like this one) make me revert back to the rules I knew way back when. I'm still curious as to what evidence 07merc has for the diagnosis of unloading causing damage. I'm not saying it wasn't the cause, I just want to make sure that it did happen so he's not wasting money on recones if that's not really the case. I just say this because a couple years ago when my sub amp was starting to go it just began by putting out less power so my sub didn't hit as hard. If he would like to test this, hook up another woofer to it and see if the fading of sound happens again. And likewise, see if you can hook up your sub to somebody else's amp to see if the fading sound happens. These two tests can determine if it's the sub or amp. You may also want to check the voice coils with a DMM to see if their resistance has changed, which would lead you to a woofer problem as well.

I've never been exposed to comps that play music. If I was, I'd make sure and play a song that stayed above tuning. Also, I didn't specify a rolloff rate or Q in my argument, so your saying there are amps with a steeper slope or more narrow Q than what I was talking about can't apply. Sure, I'm being nitpicky. You mentioned "It comes down to knowing your system." Well, I agree. I know my system well enough to know what level I can play a song at that has really low notes (perhaps lower than my tuning frequency). It comes down to common sense, IMO. If you are listening to music that constantly has notes being played below your tuning frequency, you made a poor decision on box design. I've heard from competitors and others who agree with me and say subsonic filters aren't necessary. One held a number of state records in West Virginia, might still. So I guess we're even. Also, has it actually been confirmed that unloading and overexcursion caused his problems? I know you suggested it and he said it was the reason, but he didn't say how he knows. Not to mention that his tuning frequency is 27 hz, which is pretty low, and not much music goes below that. But if he tore apart the subs and found evidence of it, then I concede.

no worries. I just get tired of people saying "Man, I put a 2,000 watt amp on this 500 watt RMS sub and it took it! This sub is so underrated!" Well, the truth is, unless you metered the actual output on the amp you would have no idea if you're actually putting out 2000 or even 500 watts to the sub. A specific coil and motor design can only take a certain amount of power. Sure manufacturers may be a bit conservative with their power ratings, but it's to decrease the number of blown speakers they get back. Not to mention that power handling is not only thermally limited, but mechanically as well (which this forum has been discussing quite a bit lately, including you on that other thread) and that most of the time with music you aren't seeing even close to RMS power from the amp. So, hence my comment about just putting an amp on the sub and playing it to it's full potential in the enclosure within all limits. ha. To the OP, why not just sell the alpine amp and get one that is optimized for 2 ohms? That would be so much easier to set up and implement, not to mention the space saving from having one amp over 2.

I know what a subsonic is and does. My comment about not helping at a comp wasn't in terms of it would increase your score, it's that it would be pointless (and perhaps even detrimental) to have on during a comp. If have a box tuned at 40 hz and you're playing a 40 hz note at your comp and have your subsonic set at 25, what good is the subsonic doing? none. It's not attenuating any frequencies that might be harmful to the sub, because you're playing a 40 hz note. If you play a 40 hz tone and have your subsonic set at 38 (just below tuning), guess what the subsonic is doing? lowering your score. The subsonic isn't the point at which the frequency response starts to roll off, it's the -3db point. So your 40 hz note would be getting attenuated probably at least 2 db's by the subsonic filter. You can argue your point all day if you want, but I have never used a subsonic and have never blown up a sub due to mechanical limits being reached from unloading. Go ahead and use it if you want, I wouldn't stop you at all.

that's from the power wire touching the terminal. You should always put the wires into the amp before inserting the fuse under the hood. does it work now?

eek, please don't use electrical tape to splice wires together. If you really want to use both sets of outputs on the mono amp for some reason, run them all the way to the box and just shove both wires into the terminal cup or sub's voice coil terminal.

Come again ???? what's wrong with what I said? If you understand english you'll realize all I said was to play it as loud as possible with whatever amp you have without the speaker blowing, thus getting the most out of it. What part of that is bad?