KU40

One is generally better, but that's only if you have adequate area with that one. a 6" port only has 28 sq. inches of area, so might have to go with 2.

Yeah. I meant to convey that in my post.

that's a lot of power. I doubt any of your speakers can handle that much. But if you felt the absolute need to do so, do it on the woofers. They are generally not only the least efficient but are also able to handle the most power because of their larger motors and coils.

I'd still have to disagree. I think frequency still plays a part. If I go out to my car and play a sweep from 80 hz down to 20, the 80 hz will start out giving me a headache but I won't feel it in my body. Once I get down to 50-60 hz I feel it more in my chest. If I go lower, down to 30 hz, I feel it more in my gut and the small of my back. As the frequency gets lower the feeling seems to move down my body. I think vehicle type plays a part as well. My friend had two 12's and like 200 watts in his monte carlo but I coulda swore they were louder than my 4 12's and 1000 watts. Mine just rattled everything, his literally beat your body up. But I metered about 8 db more than him. I have a feeling seats might have played a part in that as well. He had tightly wrapped leather, and mine were semi-loose cloth. I think the leather helped the sound bounce off of it, but the cloth absorbed more of it. again, I'm not saying you aren't louder than any of them. I would have no idea. Just throwing it out there.

2000 apiece or individually? The BTL would be the best option from FI for you because of it's highest efficiency. Can also look at sundown nightshades, mach 5 SPL.....

bigjon, what's your setup tuned to? Problem with ears vs. mic comparisons is that ears can be tricked. Lower notes sound a lot louder to us than similarly loud higher frequencies in the bass range. I'm not saying you aren't louder for sure, just pointing it out.

what kind of scams?

If you chose to use another manufacturer's passive crossover over the 3-way set manufacturer's crossover just because of S/N and THD, you went about it the wrong way. I dare you to hear a difference in those in your setup. Not to mention that don't you think the speaker's manufacturer knows a little more about their own speakers and sets up the crossovers to work the best with them? Slope is not everything, neither is having a lot of leeway in where to place the crossover points just because the manufacturer gives a large range of frequencies each speaker can play. More of it is about where to put the crossover points so that the speakers work well together.

Time to buy a cabin in the mountains then. Because the "civilized" world is saturated with it.

There's nothing wrong with winISD's port calculator and several of the graphs they depict. The only "flaw" in it is the SPL graphs, which are based on an anechoic chamber, I believe. So when you put it into a vehicle that is thrown out the window. But the transfer function magnitude, group delay, impedence, excursion, and port velocity graphs should all be accurate because they are based on the sub/box relationship and have nothing to do with the environment they are placed in. Those are really the only ones that you need anyways.

Big wreck at the busiest intersection in town today (the two main 4 lane E-W and N-S streets converge). I went to the rec center at 5 and had to go around the cleanup, and on the way back at 7 they were still there. Between the cop cars and ambulances I saw a motorcycle laying on its side. Looked like a big cruiser. I bet the guy on that got run over and probably died. So all you guys with all this bike talk, be careful.

Go 12". Get it done! Stop messing around.

what kind of boards are on that list? I couldn't imagine one much more busy than this one. How would you ever keep up with it. Well, I'm sure CAF is probably on there. but that's mostly worthless garbage. I'm talking quality.

looks pretty good. Did you get some little feet or anything for the box to prop up on?

I thought about giving advice at first, then I read you want to set off car alarms and decided against it. If you set off my car alarm on purpose I would throw a rock through your windshield.

After this, I'll repeat what I said earlier. Just keep the amp you have. Save your money. Build the box a little larger to make up for some efficiency since you only have maybe 500 real watts. No reason to go broke when it's not really necessary. The sub will sound absolutely fine on 500 watts, if that's all it is, and it will be louder than the sub you had. I guess I don't see the point in scrounging through the couch cushions to find another $1.29 when a bigger amp will get you 2 db or something, when you aren't going to compete.

Just 12"

That amp will work. You just have to be smart with it (which I hope you learned how to be after blowing the first sub). The truth is that a more powerful amp should just make it easier to blow a sub, since, well, it has more power. Just stay away from overdriving that amp to try and make up for the slightly less power and there shouldn't be a problem. If you're worried about output with that amp you could build the box a little larger to get a little more efficiency or go with a higher tuning frequency to get a little larger bump in response.

I live 30 miles from #9 Overland Park. I suppose it's ok, but it breeds yuppies and spoiled rich kids. Ick. My hometown/area was on one of those lists, like #2 best rural place to live in the US, haha.

Why the side-firing port?

Both up will be fine. There isn't a huge enough difference that you'd notice much, and since you have only 1" of clearance on the back side port up would be a much better solution.

is this for ported? What's the tuning frequency?

Is it really? haha. I've always thought I have an overactive mind. I get sleepy a lot and easily if I'm not doing anything actively. It's like my brain is either in hyperdrive or no drive, haha.

Oh, and the crossover is a Behringer CX2310. Nothing too fancy.

haha. it's not much. I had a Dayton Refernce 8" mid get damaged by a roommate one night when he was throwing a party and decided to crank my stereo. It's not totally ruined, there's just a few midbass notes that it kinda makes a tinny scratching sound on. Very few, and I really only heard it while playing tiger woods golf, haha. but enough to make me want to replace it. So it got relegated to sub duty on my fairly weak computer 2.1 system (Optimus receiver two optimus speakers which I think each have a 4" and tweet in them). While at college I didn't have access to wood box building equipment, and just felt like trying something different besides. So I chose legos. Went and got a box of them. It didn't really build as big of a box as I'd like (1.5 baffled it all the way around, haha. aka 3 little pegs/holes.), but it works. Well, a little. haha. It doesn't get super loud but definitely better than free air or anything. I have since inverted it to save some space inside there, haha. And here's what it looks like now: As is imagined, the box is the limiting factor. haha. It doesn't have a bottom as I decided that further saving bricks and using the carpeted floor as the bottom "sealant" would be all right. It doesn't sound bad at the low-moderate volume levels I normally play it at up here in my room and adds a nice lowend to the Optimus', which have basically nothing below 300 hz. But if I try to push it you get to hearing the banging resonance from the box as well as the air leaking. just starts sounding all farty. It has scotch tape all the way around on all the sides to help stop leaks through the cracks in the bricks. And has athletic tape sealing it to the top . It was just a fun little project to try. Wasn't ever expecting great results, but it's not worthless either.