KU40

ya thats about how it is here plenty of traffic comin from the east My cousin and her fiancee live in southern louisiana and on their way out of town on saturday a lady ran a stop light and hit them and totaled the car. The lady didn't have insurance or even a driver's license. I'd be so pissed off.

I'd never buy Crunch no matter how much they're actually or just supposedly better than a few years ago. As Adrian said, budget and install goals?

wow, you're REALLY defensive. ha. don't you know about sports these days? nobody wants to wait 2-3 years. They want it all now. I watched the East Carolina-virginia tech game. That was pretty awesome. The ending was great, with east carolina turning it around on VT and blocking a kick and returning it for a TD for the win.

what is the rest of the system like? What speakers hooked to it? Might try taking the DMM to the speakers and make sure they aren't blown.

I would stay away from the ones with LEDs. I had them and it wasn't awesome. After about six months I took it out and threw it against the pavement several times, if that gives you any indication.

sounds like a guy who thinks he knows it all and doesn't know what marketing is yet apparently is a fanboi of all the mainstream brands like Rockford, kicker, JL, etc, who uses so much budget in marketing that their drivers increase in price a ton. That's the ironic part.

I was thinking all the same things. Those amps are crammed so close together and basically sealed in a tight spot. No way they WON'T run hot. The middle amp is losing about 1/2 of its heatsink because it's contacting the other amps. The two on the outside are losing 1/4 from the same thing. You need to put some fans in there.

See if it turns something on?

I don't, but you could probably make one in visual basic or the like fairly easily. You know VB well? I may have some questions later on haha um, no. I took a class in high school (7 years ago) where we worked on it for a few weeks. Basic stuff. I just remember you could do stuff like that.

If you want to cover the whole floor, sides, back wall, and trunk lid, you'll need closer to 30 sq. feet. The dips and rises of the spare tire well, wheel wells, etc., add on a bit.

yes, which is why the thought is retarded.

I'm familiar with the braxial speaker system from CDT, and that's what I want for some rear fill. Are the CDT's any good? Are there other brands that have models with the same format? I'd like to have the tweeter mountable on the mid so that it all fits in the factory door spot, but I want to be able to adjust the tweeter. I almost always have to dial the tweeters down to -3db for my preferences. Hence the reason I don't just want coaxials. There's a chance I could do regular components and just put the tweeter next to the mid, but I'd like to see about this first. I'd also preferrably not like to pay the $450 that they want for the CDT HD braxials.

I don't, but you could probably make one in visual basic or the like fairly easily.

you don't want my job then No, I don't think I do. I'll let you keep it.

we've got an amazing lightning storm going on here we finally got some lightning, but it was after I started going to sleep

it didn't rain/thunderstorm like it was supposed to, dammit.

i hate talking on the phone for a long time

too much butter.

Just FYI, the crossover point isn't the point at which the frequency response starts to get changed, it's the -3db point. So in your example, 5 khz would be -3 decibels from reference. I don't know if 4 khz would be affected by this in this instance or not.

Have you tried calling Alpine

Eh... Eh... Didn't want to go there well......I figured we were just talking solid state here. apples to apples.

Just made a no-bake jello oreo dessert thing. I don't have a mixer and it said to beat it on high for 3 minutes. So my arm is really tired now. It better be good.

that thing must have an mms through the roof. And an efficiency of what, 70 db?

there are no "sq" amps. they should all sound the same. I don't know why the maker of the lunar amps would rate his stuff at 1500 then tell you it only puts out 500. To me, "true" means RMS. So 500 RMS watts. power is power. if you put 500 watts on a sub from amp A, it will be the same loudness as 500 watts from amp B.

oh, well shoot, 500 is a decent chunk of change. When I recommended coaxials I thought you were pressed (like under 100) and just wanted the easy fix. See if you can fit 6.5" components in your doors (find a place for the tweeter as well, as it will be separate from the woofer). Then you can buy an amp for them as well to help bring them to life a little more. As for suggestions, I've been out of the loop on new products and prices for a while. The manufacturers that are on this forum all have good stuff, so I'd check there first. I like my JL XR comps, though.