KU40

I'd go with three 4s

Grilling some hotdogs and hamburgers tonight.

My bet is on no difference.

If you also want a dual port setup, make each port 15.5" tall (height of inside of box) and 2" wide, by 31.5" long. That'll give you about 4 cubes net tuned to 34 hz. that's with the 17x40x18 box.

That port displaces .08 cube, so now you have a 2 cube net box. winISD says that's tuned to 34.75 hz. Not bad.

My favorite tire is the Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor. I have them on my Explorer. 40,000 miles (granted pretty much all highway) and I swear you'd think they were nearly new. They aren't quite as silent as they'd lead you to believe, but they aren't terribly noisy either. Traction is superb on all surfaces. My dad has them on his Expedition and F150 (he may have the old Wrangler AT/Ss on that, but they have basically the same tread). Goodyear Tires | SUV and Truck Tires | Wrangler SilentArmor

x2. Stay away from all the stuff in your first thread. None are quality.

It doesn't matter if you buy the sub or amp first, you can't use either until you have both. Same with the wiring. I think you should start with electrical. A 75 amp alternator won't last long on a system pulling 180-240 amps. If you don't do this, you should probably prepare to spend the money on it after you put the system in and have it ready. You don't want to ruin an alternator and then have no way to get around because you don't have the money to replace the alt just so that you can drive it.

A .75" x 12" port is not nearly enough port area for the sub. That's only 9 square inches. You need at LEAST 20 unless you do an aeroport. 25-30 would be even better.

Just leave the gain lower and listen for signs of stressing. And remember that half on the gain knob doesn't mean you'll only be getting half power (750 watts). You could be getting full power at half gain.

They are all powered. The power flows to the + on the one coil from the one sub hooked up to the amp's +, then from its - to the other coil's +, thus giving power to the other coil. It's just like stacking batteries end-to-end in a flashlight.

haha wow. I don't even know half of the cars in that video. Their singing is pretty awful, that's for sure.

Today I did two bicep lifts, two shoulder lifts, four back lifts, 30 pullups, 40 pushups, some ab work, and ran around my block (1.4 miles). That was after I moved my gf and her friend into the same apartment. So I kinda did two bicep/back workouts today, ha. Aaron, how do you stay motivated to be on that machine for an hour? I get bored on the bike after 25 minutes.

L shaped ports are only that way because the port is too long to fit into the box without doing so. There's absolutely no difference between that and a slot port or whatever you're saying. The program keeps tuning the same because it's calculating port length based on your inputs of box volume, port area, and tuning frequency. Those box dimensions give you 2.26 cubes gross. Minus sub displacement of about .17 cubes and your port displacement of .22 cubes and you have net volume of 1.87 (port is .22 because you have to add in the width of the interior port wall itself, so the dimensions would actually be 2.25 x 13.5 x 12.5). Plug those port dimensions and box volume into my winISD and it gives a tuning frequency of 42 hz. Very off. If you want a 34 hz tune with a 1.87 cube box, lengthen your port to 21.5". You'll then have to add on .16 cubes to your net volume so that it's 2.42 cubes gross.

Moved the gf today. I've now moved as many gfs as I've moved myself. At least it was mild weather, only like 75 degrees, and we got it all done before noon.

If you have subs, they should be playing up to 60-80 hz. So the highpass for the midbass should be around those numbers as well. If you have the midbass highpassed at 200 hz (half of 80 and 320), you're missing a ton of midbass. Turn that to 80 or so.

Head units have two power wires. One is constant, the other i switched with your ignition and only sees power when the ignition is turned on. On most head units they are yellow and red.

That's exactly what did it. Misalignment causes extra wear on the inside or outside of the tread.

I also use this general formula for my muscle building and I think it works well. Although I generally do two major muscles per day (maybe it depends on your definition of major muscles). I have it broken down into three days- triceps/chest, biceps/back, and legs. I throw in some more minor muscles each of those days as well, like forearms and outside shoulder on bicep day, upper shoulder on chest day, etc. I also do a little bit of abs almost every day. I think your body can replenish your muscles faster if it only has to concentrate on smaller areas of the body vs. trying to do work on the whole body. Especially the really big muscles like the quads, chest, and back. Those are major muscles that take a lot of effort to replenish. Just reread through your first post and you already said you were going to break it up into different groups. I just read your last total body workout day and though you were applying that every day. But now I see that is not the case. So I guess you already know what I know. Oh well, more backup for you I guess.

Good luck! 3-5 7 minute miles is pretty incredible for somebody that weighs 265, you must have some good lungs and heart. So at least you have that strong foundation. Now just watch the pants start to fit looser .

I have an Alpine that I like. I've never used any input features, though. Eclipse has always been a strong head unit company. I tend to stay away from Kenwood head units unless it's in their excelon line, or whatever their top model line is nowadays. I bought an average Kenwood for like $120 a couple years ago and it noticeably colored the sound in a bad way. When I bought my Alpine to replace it, I immediately noticed a fuller, richer sound.

Right. I'd suggest getting the amp you want now. You can always dial down a 2000 watt amp to put out 1000 watts if that's all that your electrical system can handle, and that's easily gauged by monitoring the voltage as notorious pointed out. I think if you go into the situation realizing that if you turn up the volume and allow your voltage to sag too far that you can easily blow the amp, you'll be more careful going into it . It can easily be done safely, however.

Did you match up the wires in the back appropriately with the factory wiring? Did you hook up both power wires?

I don't like tabs, I do new windows. So when I come here to look at new posts I usually get 15-30 windows open at once.

It only gains about 10% of box volume, so you'd only be able to cut your box down to 3 cubes. Not sure how much of a difference that will make.