KU40

Why are you basing your choice of a sub on the qts? The SX is a good sub, though. The larger box will be a little more efficient, have a smaller hump in frequency response above tuning, and play the lows a tad louder. It will also give less power handling capability.

great amp. But it will eat your electrical system alive if you don't beef it up. It's class A/B and I believe will draw at least 200 amps.

Either of the trucks would likely be best for SQ. You don't need much room behind the seat for SQ (like in a standard cab truck) because you don't need much for a sub. Maybe a 12" in a sealed box. Extended cab would give you more room for amps and things though, obviously. and like Jim mentioned, the positioning of the front speakers is the key in SQ. You have to have options. But this is where you really have to decide between SPL and SQ, because the van definitely has the most potential for SPL due to space.

Well it's good if you think it sounds good to you, that's the most important, as rushrun stated. I should have said I personally don't think I'd ever put those two in the same sentence.

With so much drama in the LBC, it's kinda hard being Snoop D-O-double-G

hard for me to believe that it's tuned to 42 hz and yet "it sounds very good actually." But

what's it tuned to

I like the angled edge on the extra sub baffle. I don't think I've ever seen that done before.

No Jim don't leave!

Looks nice. But why are you using a cap?

Don't you mean BL?

budget?

try raising your tune a few hz (shorten the port). If, for example, you raise your tune to 35 hz and are still loudest at 36 hz, you can usually pour more power into it because the note is closer to tuning, where the cone moves the least. If you don't want to do that, try facing your box to the rear. If your box doesn't take up all of the cross-sectional area leading into the cabin, it will be louder facing the rear almost every time. set the box so that the sub is on the passenger's side, port on driver's side. How did you modify from being totally sealed up in your car last time? As rushrun said, usually rolling down the window on the driver's side will help the score, as will opening the door in some cases. If they allow it, you should even try fanning the door in and out while the note is playing. Also, did you have your foot on the gas to keep your RPMs up last time? Check the rules of the organization on this, as they all vary. Sometimes they let you rev up your car to 2,000 RPMs, which will get more current from your alternator for your amps to use. Try using winISD to model your sub in the enclosure and ones like it that you may be able to modify your current box into. But don't just look at the SPL graph, check impedence, too. That's one trick that almost nobody talks about. shh.

damn why am I not in bed yet. My roommate took tomorrow off too. lucky.

did it read "Ice Cube's a pimp"

spend all your money (and all that you don't have) on the car and none on a home to live in. Brilliant!

is your sub the 2002 model? If not, the specs could easily be different between model years between yours and the one in CAE. Manufacturers almost always tinker with things for new model years, just like vehicle manufacturers. But there is no way that Fs should be that off between yours and published specs. That hints at a completely different soft part assembly if that's happening. So your machine must be wrong, IMO. Or else they sent the wrong specs with the sub in the box.

We competed in that as well. i was thinking about that but you can use as many 10HP engines as you want (so long as you don't break the weight limit). We definitely don't have that kind of money here. We use 4 of them, and if I remember right, they are donated. What do you guys compete in over there? as far as I know KU only does the open wheel racer. We are the lose I guess.

A sub's specs will not be different by twofold because of quality control. If they're off by that much, it's a completely different sub. Specs are normally off by 10% at the most, and normally not even close to that, even after break-in time. Either your instrument wasn't calibrated correctly, or something.

did you do a sine sweep in both runs (a continuously lowering frequency sweep, like from 100 hz - 10 hz)? I'm curious as to why your frequencies are different. Along with the different mic placement, that's why the scores are different. But sometimes it's atmospheric conditions that affect the score, top frequency, etc. temperature and humidity also come into play.

You're going into protect on sine waves and not in music because music is not a steady stream of power at all, whereas sine waves are. The amps have to be constantly putting out as much power as they can with a sine wave, which draws more current, which dips your voltage, which puts the amp into protect. With music you may have one big hit that lasts for a second and it's not enough time to drain your electrical system enough. With music your amps hardly work at all, relatively speaking.

awww. hehe. I think you'd be best served with a sealed box somewhere in the middle.

My 15 blends excellently with my front stage, and it's ported. This is only at low volumes, though. It's so easy to overpower the front stage and the midbass that the fronts put out that you lose blending if you crank the sub up too much. Having the crossover lower actually helps in most cases. Anything in the midbass range isn't played nearly as well by a subwoofer as a mid, and the difference is audible.

I'm confused as to how you have things wired. You have the tweeters ran off of the front two channels of the head unit, right? But then you have the two mids up front wired in series and powered off of the head unit? Why did you wire them together? You should also try getting an external amp. Not only will they make these sound better, but you'll need one if you're going to go 3-way like has been suggested.

Hey, nice name. You're just missing the "h." haha. he kinda looks like Liev Schreiber. But I did just watch a movie he was in two days ago